We can't see enough foliage detail to be certain (and flowers and/or seeds/fruits are key to plant ID), but the tree looks like a type of Asian flowering cherry, which are fairly commonly planted. Flowering cherries, despite their popularity in our region, can be vulnerable to a few pest and disease issues, as well as stressful environmental conditions (drought, high heat, etc.) and injury.

For example, we see that the trunk is not separated from the surrounding lawn with a ring of mulch. It is recommended to mulch around trees that are bordered by lawn for a few reasons: it helps to reduce root competition for moisture and nutrients between the tree and the turf; it provides a buffer to make accidental wounds from mower or string trimmer strikes less likely (the damage of which can be serious or fatal for a tree, especially thin-barked species like cherries); and it also reduces the risk of exposure to any lawn herbicides (weed killer products) that might be used. The main concern among those potential issues is the wounding from mowing, as that can invite insect borers or canker diseases to damage the wood further. Neither of those conditions has a treatment or cure, and either could prove fatal for a tree.

The canopy dieback looks significant, but it's hard to say what caused it and when it began. Possibilities include stress from drought (anything that kills or stresses roots can manifest as canopy dieback) or an infection like Brown Rot, Botryosphaeria canker, or another type of canker fungus.

Regardless of the original cause, nothing can remedy the leafless branches because they are already dead or too weakened to recover, and they should be pruned off. The "proper pruning cuts" section of our tree pruning web page provides guidance about where to make the cuts so they keep the risk low of wood decay affecting the trunk afterwards.

We can't tell why the trunk crack developed, but it does not look recent. Both growth cracks (normal) and frost cracks (due to fluctuating winter temperatures) can look similar.

The tree appears to have been planted too deeply by whoever installed it. We say that because we don't see a root flare, which is the location where major roots branch off of the trunk base. A tree's root flare should be visible at the soil surface, since buried root flares covered by soil or too much mulch are more prone to developing girdling roots, a problem that can also lead to canopy dieback or even tree failure (toppling or death).

For now, remove the dead wood (have a certified arborist or licensed tree expert do the pruning if you're not comfortable doing it), clear away some of the lawn (if you can) and put down mulch instead (see the linked page for guidance; try to mulch a zone at least 2 feet from the trunk in all directions), and monitor the tree for watering needs. Recent rainstorms have provided enough moisture to some plants in the short term, but most of the state is still in a notable drought.

It's always hard to predict from photos if a damaged tree with canopy decline can be saved. (An arborist, if you hire one, will be able to make a more thorough assessment.) The live part of the canopy looks good, but the photo is hard to see clearly since much of the foliage is dark due to shadows. Flowering cherries are capable of living a century or more, but often their lifespan is more practically considered 2 or 3 decades until commonplace causes of decline make them look too haggard. Avoid soil compaction, root zone flooding (they do not tolerate soggy roots for long), and injuries, and they will probably do fairly well for many years.

Miri