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A fungus is attacking my Black Eyed Susans. #936715

Asked June 24, 2026, 4:04 PM EDT

Hi. I've had a constant problem with a fungus attacking the leaves. It starts every summer right around now. The symptoms are.... 1. Small brown spots begin forming on the leaves closest to the ground. 2...This spotting migrates up the plant until nearly the entire plant is covered over a period of perhaps two weeks.. 3. Simultaneously, the spots grow in size until most of each leaf has turned brown. 4. The plant wilts but doesn't die. BTW, I also have a chronic turf fungus problem that I treat with Heritage, Pillar, Headway, and Bayer BioAdvanced in a rotating schedule every three weeks from Spring. The plants at issue are in the same soil. I'm pretty sure my overall problem is that when I overhauled my lawn 30 years ago I tilled Compro (sterilized sewage sludge) into the soil for amendment. The Compro must have contained the fungi. Images 8889 and 8890 identify the plant Image 8892 shows the fungus The plants are in relatively moist soil along my brick walk. They're on the north side of the house and receive perhaps 4-5 hours of direct sunlight at the peak of each day at the summer solstice. BTW, I'm in Crownsville so it's easy for me to stop by the extension office near the old dairy farm if you want to see the leaves.

Anne Arundel County Maryland

Expert Response

There are two primary diseases that cause Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia) leaves to get spots that progress to blotches and sometimes to totally-black leaves: Septoria Leaf Spot (fungal) and Angular Leaf Spot (bacterial). The most common of the two is Septoria. Symptoms manifest as irregular black spots on the leaves, and it can disfigure the plant significantly if the weather is favorable for disease spread (wet, hot and humid). Once established, it is difficult to control.

Management for both diseases is the same and is the approach used for suppressing most plant leaf infections. Adjusting growing conditions can help reduce plant vulnerability, such as improving air circulation by reducing crowding (dividing dense plants or not planting them too close together) or eliminating poor drainage to reduce humidity levels. Wet leaf surfaces tend to be easier for spores to infect, so if you can’t avoid wetting leaves when watering, irrigate early enough in the day so the foliage can dry by nightfall. Keep mulch thin and away from the base of the plants. Inspect foliage periodically to catch symptoms early; remove and discard (don’t compost) infected leaves.

At the end of the season after frosts have killed top growth, remove dead plant debris so fewer spores overwinter around the base of the plant. Plants with Septoria are not usually killed outright, but can die back to the base, and may be weakened by successive years of heavy infection and the resulting defoliation. If disease pressure is heavy, you may want to consider growing something else. Other perennials might be more practical to grow, but there are species and cultivars of Rudbeckia that are much more resistant to developing leaf spot infections. The often-grown cultivar ‘Goldsturm’, for example, is quite susceptible to these diseases.

While fungicides containing either copper or chlorothalonil can work to suppress Septoria, they won’t necessarily work well (or at all) on bacterial pathogens like Angular Leaf Spot (copper ingredients might). Additionally, regular reapplications tend to be needed for most fungicide formulations, and their residues might have negative impacts on pollinators or other organisms, so we generally do not recommend fungicide use.

Any fungal lawn issues would not be associated with the leaf spots on the Rudbeckia and it would not be from what was used 30 years ago. 

Let us know if you have further questions. 

Emily

Thanks, Emily.  I'll pickup some Monterey copper spray at Lowe's and give that a try.  I'll be sure to spray well below the flowering buds.

I'll let you know how things go.

Frank

On Mon, Jun 29, 2026 at 10:46 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
The Question Asker Replied June 30, 2026, 2:10 PM EDT
If you decide to spray, read the label carefully first to look for any temperature restrictions (most pesticides should not be applied while temperatures are above 85 degrees, or it can damage plant tissues) and application restrictions. For example, copper-based products have a limit on how many times per year they can be applied to avoid a buildup of copper in the soil that can become toxic to roots.

Miri
Thanks, Miri. Yeah, I saw the temperature restriction. I didn’t see the total utilization restriction so thanks for that. 

Frank
The Question Asker Replied June 30, 2026, 5:30 PM EDT

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