Hello Peter,

FYI: All of the components in the Envy Premium Tall Fescue blend are turf‑type tall fescue cultivars, and therefore the species is Tall Fescue — Schedonorus arundinaceus (formerly Festuca arundinacea). More information at these links:

Identifying Tall Fescue | Grasses at a Glance | Illinois Extension | UIUC

Tall Fescue | Purdue University Turfgrass Science at Purdue University

What species is this blend?

Your seed label lists:

Spyder 2LS Tall Fescue – 33.20%

Firecracker G‑LS Tall Fescue – 33.55%

Titanium G‑LS Tall Fescue – 31.65%

All three are named cultivars of turf‑type tall fescue, a cool‑season bunchgrass widely used for lawns in the Midwest, including Michigan.

Scientific species

Tall Fescue — Schedonorus arundinaceus (Schreb.) Dumort.

(Also known historically as Festuca arundinacea.)

Why are cultivars not separate species

University Extension sources confirm that tall fescue used in lawns consists of improved turf‑type cultivars selected for finer texture, darker color, and better disease resistance.

Spyder 2LS, Firecracker G‑LS, and Titanium G‑LS are examples of these improved cultivars.

How this species performs in Michigan

According to MSU Extension, tall fescue is one of the recommended turfgrass species for Michigan lawns due to:

good drought tolerance

good insect and disease resistance

tolerance of low fertility

moderate shade tolerance

Turf‑type tall fescue blends like yours are commonly used for high‑quality, durable home lawns. More information at this link:

Turfgrass Species and Cultivar Selection - MSU Extension

Summary

Seed Component Species Type

Spyder 2LS Schedonorus arundinaceus Turf‑type tall fescue cultivar

Firecracker G‑LS Schedonorus arundinaceus Turf‑type tall fescue cultivar

Titanium G‑LS Schedonorus arundinaceus Turf‑type tall fescue cultivar

Therefore, the entire blend is 100% Tall Fescue (Schedonorus arundinaceus)**, just different elite cultivars.

FYI - The Anderson’s 18‑24‑12 is legal to use on an existing lawn in Michigan only if you meet one of the phosphorus‑use exceptions in Michigan law.

If you do not meet an exception, then it is not legal to apply this fertilizer to established turf.

Below is the complete, Michigan‑specific explanation.

Michigan’s Phosphorus Law (Public Act 299 of 2010)

Michigan restricts the use of phosphorus (P) on turfgrass to protect water quality.

Fertilizer labeled 18‑24‑12 contains 24% phosphorus, so it is regulated.

You may legally apply phosphorus fertilizer to an existing lawn only if one of the following is true:

1. You have a soil test showing phosphorus deficiency

This is the most common legal pathway.

MSU Extension emphasizes soil testing as the first step in determining fertilizer needs.

2. You are establishing new turf

Phosphorus is allowed for:

new seeding

new sod

lawn repair

overseeding

3. The fertilizer is applied to non‑turf plants

The law only restricts lawns.

It does not restrict use on:

gardens

trees

shrubs

flowers

agricultural land

4. You are applying it to a golf course or athletic field under a nutrient management plan

When it is not legal

You cannot apply 18‑24‑12 to an existing, established lawn if:

You do not have a soil test showing low phosphorus, and

You are not seeding, sodding, or renovating the lawn.

This is the exact scenario the law was designed to prevent, as MSU Extension notes in discussing phosphorus restrictions to protect water resources.

What about the nitrogen?

Michigan has no restrictions on:

slow‑release nitrogen

coated nitrogen

nitrogen percentage

So the 48% slow‑release NS‑54 nitrogen is fully legal.

Only the phosphorus determines legality.

Final Answer for Your Situation

The Anderson’s 18‑24‑12 is legal on an existing lawn in Michigan only if you have a soil test showing low phosphorus or you are renovating/overseeding.

Otherwise, it is not legal to apply it to established turfgrass.

To properly identify the grass, you need to send at least two images of the turfgrass to the MSU Plant and Pest Diagnostic lab for IDENTIFICATION – Turfgrass is extremely difficult to ID. Follow the directions from this MSUE article - Grass photography tips for ID: Help us help you! - Erin Hill, Michigan State University Department of Plant, Soil and Microbial Sciences - May 09, 2024 at this link:

Grass photography tips for ID: Help us help you! - Plant & Pest Diagnostics

The single weed I can see in your image is a Ribwort Plantain (Plantago lanceolata)

Proper Steps for Overseeding an Existing Lawn in Michigan

(Based on MSU Extension and other .edu sources)

Michigan’s best overseeding window is mid‑August through September when soil temperatures are ideal, and weed pressure is low.

Below is the full, correct sequence.

1. Prepare the Lawn Surface

Mow low and remove clippings/debris to expose soil for seed contact.

Dethatch if thatch is heavy, because it blocks seed from reaching the soil.

Aerate compacted areas to improve seed‑to‑soil contact and rooting.

2. Choose the Right Seed

Use cool‑season grasses recommended for Michigan:

Kentucky bluegrass

Perennial ryegrass

Fine or tall fescues

MSU notes that matching species to your existing lawn improves results.

3. Apply Seed Correctly

Slit‑seeding or core‑seeding is preferred for overseeding because it places seed directly into soil grooves, resulting in higher germination.

Broadcast seeding alone is less effective unless followed by raking or aeration.

4. Use a Starter Fertilizer

MSU recommends a starter fertilizer at seeding time with a balanced N:P ratio (e.g., 1:1 or 1:1.5) to support early growth.

(Note: Michigan’s phosphorus law allows starter fertilizer during seeding/overseeding.)

5. Water Properly

Keep the seedbed consistently moist, not soaked.

Lightly water once or twice daily until germination, then reduce frequency while increasing depth.

The page notes that maintaining moisture is essential for germination and early establishment.

6. Avoid Herbicides

Do not apply broadleaf herbicides for about 2 months after overseeding — seedlings are easily damaged.

7. Protect the Area

Avoid heavy foot traffic until seedlings are well established.

Optional: Apply a light straw mulch to help retain moisture (1 bale per 1,000 sq ft).

Why Fall Overseeding Works Best

Warm soil + cool air = ideal germination

Less weed competition

Better root development before winter

These advantages are highlighted in your tab’s timing section.

I hope this helps!