Hello Lisa,

5746 is corn speedwell (Veronica arvensis), a lawn weed.  5744 has plantain (Plantago major), Lamb's Quarters (Chenopodium album), and possibly false dandelion.  All of these are broadleaved weeds that a selective herbicide containing 2,4-D should be fairly effective at controlling.

Grass identification is complicated at best and requires very detailed, close-up photos to show structures that are needed to identify the grass variety.  https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/grass-photography-tips-for-id-help-us-help-you

If you want grass varieties identified, the best way is to take samples and send them to the MSU Diagnostic laboratory.  There is a charge for identification services.  The information is at:  https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/

Cool season mixes for shade are generally composed of fine fescues (creeping red, chewing and hard fescue).  Sun & shade mixes can contain these varieties and add turf type tall fescue, perennial rye and Kentucky bluegrass.  Sun mixes can contain tall fescues, perennial rye and Kentucky Bluegrass.  Each seed mixture may have multiple varietals of each of these major types of grass.  I am not surprised that you have a lot of variation in the grass that established.  Some of these cultivars are fine bladed and fluffy, some are clumpy and coarse and others are more medium textured and fairly uniform.  Hence by using a couple of bags of sun/shade mix and a shade mix and a sun mix, you could be looking at 12-20 or more grass varieties in your lawn.

Image 5745 appears to be a clumpy, turf type tall fescue.

You might have been better off to get one sun/shade mix and plant your entire yard with it.  In the shade, the shade varietals should do best and dominate, in the sun, the sun varietals should perform best and dominate, and in between, a transition mix should establish.

I also feel compelled to mention that there are no grass varieties that "love" shade.  They may tolerate shade but if the shade is dense, they will still likely be thin and struggle to thrive.

When you reseed, study the varieties in the mixture you intend to buy and see if the textures are going to provide a uniform lawn or a diverse lawn.  Here is a good MSU article on lawn seed choices:  https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/turfgrass_species_and_cultivar_selection_e2912

Did you apply a pre-emergent herbicide for crabgrass this spring?  If you did, some of the more popular herbicide components require up to 3 months before seeding will be successful.  In this case you will not be able to overseed until late summer.  You will benefit from controlling weeds and having the existing grass in as thick and healthy a condition as you can before you overseed in the fall.  Here is an MSU article on fall overseeding:  https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/time_to_seed

If you did not apply a pre-emergent herbicide this spring, you can try a broad leaved herbicide and then overseed in the spring.  Here is an article that discusses this process:  https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/tips_for_reseeding_lawns_in_the_spring

If you overseed this spring, you can still apply a broadleaved selective herbicide in the fall and overseed again.  Broadleaf weed killers are very effective in the late summer/early fall.

Hope this helps.