treatment for Anthracnose on 50 ft tall Sycamore trees - Ask Extension
I have 2, 50 ft tall Sycamore trees on my property. I recently had them pruned as they had many large branches that have died. I believe they have Ant...
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treatment for Anthracnose on 50 ft tall Sycamore trees #930033
Asked April 29, 2026, 1:07 PM EDT
I have 2, 50 ft tall Sycamore trees on my property. I recently had them pruned as they had many large branches that have died. I believe they have Anthracnose. How do I treat them? A professional Arborist said the initial treatment would be $3300. Then $500 quarterly. Is there anything I can do myself or a less expensive option? The trees are near my house and provide alot of shade and energy savings in the summer. I want to keep them healthy.
Montgomery County Maryland
Expert Response
Using fungicide for anthracnose on a mature shade tree is not practical (and there is no DIY option), and the disease has not been prevalent this year (and not much last year either) due to the ongoing drought. It doesn't kill major branches but might kill small twigs or branch tips if an infection is extensive or creates cumulative damage. If notable portions of the canopy have been dying, it may be due to drought impacts since sycamore prefer evenly moist soil.
Sycamores around the region were just leafing-out when last week's overnight freeze occurred, and many of them were damaged and need to recuperate before they can leaf out again. That might be what you're seeing, unless dieback began several years ago.
The only action to take in the short term is, if practical or feasible, irrigate the root zone once the soil gets too dry to the touch around six inches below the surface. Given the extensive root area around mature trees (unless they're quite limited by paved areas), it's usually not possible to water them as often as may be needed during drought to fully make up for the lack of rain.
Miri
Sycamores around the region were just leafing-out when last week's overnight freeze occurred, and many of them were damaged and need to recuperate before they can leaf out again. That might be what you're seeing, unless dieback began several years ago.
The only action to take in the short term is, if practical or feasible, irrigate the root zone once the soil gets too dry to the touch around six inches below the surface. Given the extensive root area around mature trees (unless they're quite limited by paved areas), it's usually not possible to water them as often as may be needed during drought to fully make up for the lack of rain.
Miri
