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Soil test questions #927362

Asked April 02, 2026, 2:38 PM EDT

Hello. I appreciate your help in interpreting my soil tests. Last June, the leaves on two of my mature tart cherry trees began to yellow and the fruit stopped developing. The trees were bare of all fruit and leaves by late summer and neither tree survived the winter. Another tart cherry tree in the same area, as well as three peach trees, did not show any of these symptoms. The cherry tree yielded an abundance of fruit but the peach trees produced minimal fruit. All of the trees were planted in 2018 and spaced 15-20' from each other. I received the soil test results from this area but am not sure how to proceed. The test results recommend adding only a very small amount of nitrogen (.07 lbs./100 sq.ft.) however I am unsure of the best way to add such a small amount. Should I apply chelated iron? I believe the micronutrients (iron, zinc, manganese and copper) are OK. I also have a question about the soil test results for my blueberries. The test results show low nitrogen and potassium but very high phosphorus. The recommended amount of 1-0-1 fertilizer is .2 lbs./100 sq. ft. which again is a very small amount and I am not sure the best way to add the N and K. The pH also reads low. When I established the blueberry patch in 2022 the pH of the soil was 6.2, which I reduced using elemental sulfur before planting the bushes. The last time I added any elemental sulfur was in the fall of 2024. The pH measured 4.5 in April 2025 using a digital meter. I know these meters are not always accurate, which is why sent in a soil test. The blueberry patch is mulched with pine bark, however I am wondering if adding additional pine straw around the bushes would be helpful to increase the organic matter (i.e. nitrogen). Additionally, I have been applying a 4-3-6 fertilizer to the bushes each spring but am unsure if I should do that this year as the phosphorus reading is high. Also, I do not have my organic certification, however I do follow organic practices when selecting products to apply to my fruits whenever it is possible. Thank you again for your help with this! Marjorie Wade

Washington County Minnesota

Expert Response

First all MN soil is high in phosphorus, so do not try to add any of that. Look for a fertilizer with numbers as close to your soil test recommendation, but they do not have to be exact. Seven tenths of a pound of nitrogen is not a small amount for 100 square feet. Fertilizer mean for lawns may add N without adding additional P and K. 
See these web pages for a cherry tree diseases. They do not quite match up with your pictures. Also, check the lower trunks of the trees for any damage. 
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/yellowing_leaves_and_leaf_loss_reported_in_tart_cherries
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/european_brown_rot_blossom_blight_outbreak_on_montmorency_tart_cherries
https://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/plant/deciduous/prunus/
https://extension.umn.edu/plant-diseases/cherry-leaf-spot
https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/extensions-greatest-hits/2007-08-28-yellow-leaves-can-indicate-plant-problems
If the remaining tree develops this same problem, send a sample of the leaves to the Plant Disease Clinic for a diagnosis. https://pdc.umn.edu/  There is a fee for this. 
In the mean time, remove all the dead tree leaves, trunks, etc., to avoid any disease being transmitted to the remaining tree. 
General information:  https://extension.umn.edu/fruit/growing-stone-fruits-home-garden
If you peach tree produced a lot of fruit in previous years, it may just have had a low fruit year. Or a late frost may have killed the blossoms which eventually become fruit.  Good luck!

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