Hello Terry,

Yes — if the bark has been chewed all the way around (a full girdle), the tree is at serious risk of dying because the flow of nutrients between roots and canopy has been cut off. However, mature apple trees can sometimes be saved with timely intervention, especially using bridge grafting, a method recommended by university extension specialists.

Why Girdling Is So Dangerous

When rodents (mice, voles, rabbits) chew bark completely around the trunk, they destroy the cambium, the living tissue that transports sugars downward.

Without this connection, roots starve, and the tree can die within months.

Michigan State University Extension notes that rodent girdling is common in winter and can be fatal if untreated. More information is at this link:

Bridge grafting as a life-saving procedure for trees - MSU Extension

Can a 10–12‑Year‑Old Apple Tree Survive?

Older apple trees have more stored energy and thicker bark, so they sometimes survive partial girdling. But complete girdling requires intervention to have any chance of survival.

University extension guidance states:

100% girdled young trees usually die unless cut back below the damage.

Older trees may be saved using bridge grafting to reconnect the cambium. More information is at this link:

Bridge grafting as a life-saving procedure for trees - MSU Extension

What You Can Do Now (Most Effective Options)

1. Bridge Grafting (Best Chance of Saving the Tree)

This is the standard university‑recommended method for saving girdled fruit trees. It reconnects the nutrient flow by inserting small scion sticks across the damaged area.

Extension guidance explains that bridge grafting:

Connects the cambium above and below the wound

Restores carbohydrate flow

Is commonly used on apples, pears, cherries, and walnuts – More information at this link:

Bridge-Grafting and Inarching Damaged Trees | Integrated Pest Management

Timing:

Best done in early spring before growth begins.

Materials:

Pencil‑thick scion wood (from your tree or another apple)

Sharp knife

Grafting wax or tree wound compound

If you’re not experienced with grafting, an arborist can do this.

To find an arborist in your zip code, go to this link:

Find an Arborist

2. Immediate First Aid (Do This Now)

Even before grafting season, you can help the tree survive:

Protect the exposed wood with grafting wax or a water‑based asphalt emulsion to prevent drying. (Recommended as first aid for girdled trees.) More information at this link:

Bridge-Grafting and Inarching Damaged Trees | Integrated Pest Management

Clean ragged bark edges to encourage healing.

Prevent further rodent damage by installing hardware cloth around the base.

3. Supportive Care Through the Season

Water deeply during dry periods.

Avoid heavy fertilization (can stress roots).

Mulch 2–4 inches, but keep mulch away from the trunk to avoid attracting rodents.

Prune only dead or damaged branches to reduce stress.

When the Tree Cannot Be Saved

A tree is unlikely to survive if:

The bark is completely removed around the entire circumference, and

No grafting is performed, and

The tree shows early signs of decline (leaf wilt, dieback).

In such cases, MSU Extension suggests replacing the tree rather than attempting long‑shot repairs. More information at this link:

Bridge grafting as a life-saving procedure for trees - MSU Extension

Preventing Future Damage

University extension sources recommend:

Hardware cloth guards around trunks

Removing mulch directly against the trunk

Reducing rodent habitat near the orchard

Winter monitoring for gnawing activity – More information at this link:

Bridge Grafting – Saving Tree Life Despite the Odds | Extension | West Virginia University