Hello Mark,

Unless you have issues with your water supply or manifold (plumbing before the drip tape starts) you should be able to just replace the drip line that is damaged. If you know of a specific area that is damaged you can use two connectors (double male fittings with twist locks) and an appropriate length of drip tape to splice the damaged section. If the line is short and or more than a few seasons old, it is typically best to just replace the whole line. You can measure the distance between the emitters to match the emitter spacing. Matching the old line's emitter flow rate can be difficult without having the drip tape's label. You can kink the line after the first few emitters, turn the system on, and collect the output of an emitter for a set amount of time to find the flow rate. Most emitters flow rates are listed in gallons per hour, to convert your measurements, divide the number of gallons collected from a single emitter by the number of minutes you ran the emitters output into whatever vessel you collected the output in, lastly multiply by 60 to convert minutes to hours. The amount you collect should be small (under a gallon per hour), thus you may need to measure in milliliters or cups and convert to gallons. We typically use a bowl or other short container to collect the output then transfer the water to a graduated cylinder. You can substitute the graduated cylinder for measuring cups or mason jars that you don't intend to use again if needed. See attached picture for example.

 The emitters (small holes or slits usually on the same side as colored markings) should be on the upward side when installing below the soil's surface. You will need to seal the end of your line, you can buy a barbed cap or valve fitting to terminate the line. A valve can be handy when winterizing the system. Alternatively, many growers will cut the line an inch or two before the next emitter after where you wish to end the line, then fold the drip tape back on itself, length wise for a few inches, three or more times to close the end. The folds can be secured by using a few zip ties or even slipping the folds inside a short scrap of drip tape. Never cut directly on an emitter as this will cause leaks at your fittings. 

I am replacing a drip system around a gazebo in a public park. The current drip line is 2-3” under soil and mulch. It is cut in several places, thus unusable. Looking for article on proper drip line installation.

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