Hello Alexander,

Thanks for your interesting question. Here are some answers

You’re dealing with a “stacked” set of stresses (shade + root competition/dryness + juglone + poor/backfill soil), so the most reliable strategy is: **pick juglone-tolerant plants, then reduce overall stress as much as you can** (soil improvement, leaf/nut cleanup, and—if needed—root separation). A few notes and then some shrub/small-tree options that tend to fit your goals.

How to make the site more plant-friendly (especially near the walnut)
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* **Expect the strongest juglone effects closest to walnut roots.** Juglone is _not very water soluble_ and generally doesn’t move far in soil, so distance from the main root zone matters.https://extension.psu.edu/trees-lawns-and-landscaping/working-with-the-black-walnut
* **Keep walnut debris out of beds:** rake/remove walnut leaves, hulls, and fallen nuts where you’re trying to grow sensitive plants; nuts can have particularly high juglone concentrations. https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/black-walnut-toxicity/
* **Improve drainage + organic matter:** adding organic matter and improving drainage/aeration can help overall plant vigor and may support soil microbes that break down juglone. (This also helps with compacted “builder backfill.”) 
* **Raised beds can work near walnuts**, especially if you include some sort of barrier/lining to reduce walnut root invasion and fill with “clean” topsoil. https://extension.psu.edu/insects-pests-and-diseases/landscaping-and-gardening-around-walnuts-and-other-juglone-producing-plants
* For long-term water-wise success, **match plants to the micro-site** (deep shade vs part shade; driest spots vs slightly moister pockets) and use plants adapted to your climate and conditions.https://www.udel.edu/academics/colleges/canr/cooperative-extension/fact-sheets/plant-selection-water-conservation/

Juglone-tolerant shrubs / large woody plants to consider (with flowers and/or fall interest)
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The hard part is that not all lists agree and many plants haven’t been formally tested—these are evidence-based “best bets,” not guarantees. 

### 1) **Witch-hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)** — native, flowers + fall color

* Listed as **juglone tolerant**. https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/black-walnut-toxicity/
* Typically handles **part shade to shade** and is a great “intrigue” plant (fall bloom; yellow fall color).
* Once established, it’s reasonably resilient, but like anything under walnut competition, it does better with a wider mulch ring and occasional deep watering in extreme drought.

### 2) **Viburnums (Viburnum spp.) — many natives available; some have strong fall color.  Most viburnum are listed as juglone tolerant. 
* For your conditions, look especially at shade-capable natives (e.g., mapleleaf viburnum is often a good shade shrub; arrowwood viburnum can do part shade).
* Bonus: many viburnums offer flowers + berries for wildlife + fall color.

### 3) **Currants/gooseberries (Ribes spp.)** — native options exist; edible + flowers
Gooseberries often manage part shade and can be a nice mid-sized shrub layer. I've had a gooseberry bush for years in part shade. The berries make great jam!

### 4) **Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.)** — “large shrub / small tree” option with major seasonal interest

* Gives you spring flowers, edible berries, and strong fall color.
* In heavy shade it will flower less, but in dappled shade/edge light it can be excellent.

A few “reality checks” that help with plant selection under black walnut
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* Even “tolerant” plants can fail if they’re also fighting **dry soil + dense root competition**. Extension guidance emphasizes that it’s often the _combination_ of juglone and site stress that causes poor performance.https://ask.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=382769
* If you’re very close to the trunk/major roots, **raised beds with a root barrier + imported soil** often give the biggest improvement in success rate.

I hope this will help you figure out how to address your black walnut and other issues. Let us know if you have further questions.

Lesley for UDC master gardeners

Hello Alex,

The “big box” stores tend to carry some native plants, though not a great selection of them. I’ve had better luck at the local nurseries such as American Plant or Merrifield Garden Center, which have special sections labeled as native plants. There’s also Laurens garden and native plants center in Columbia MD, which I’ve not been to but hear good things about it. https://www.laurensgardenservice.com/native-plant-infomation-and-shopping/

Happy shopping and growing!

Lesley for UDC master gardeners