• A Northern exposure isn't necessarily a problem, especially if it's being supplemented with grow lights. Are the plants directly in front of the window (as opposed to several feet away, or off to the side of the window)? If not, they won't be getting enough light, at least from that source. The intensity of the grow lights and how close/far they are from the leaves will also impact how effective they are (or how stressful for the plant, if too bright).
• Are the plants exposed to any warm or chilly drafts? Good air circulation from a ceiling fan helps, but if a window draft or exposure to heat from a radiator or air vent close to the plants may be stressing them.
• The primary cause of decline in houseplant orchids is due to root moisture, either too much or too little. Bark mixes are often the easiest material to grow the plants in, since orchid roots require good access to air for oxygen; they will not tolerate staying too wet or being in a material that doesn't "breathe" well. While some houseplant growers can get lucky with having some orchids tolerate "water culture," it is not recommended and usually rots roots. Phalaenopsis and most orchids evolved to grow attached to tree trunks and rock faces in habitats where it's humid and/or often raining, so the lack of soil around their roots allows them to dry off quickly after getting wet. We grow them in pots because it's more convenient and easier to care for them in that way, but the trade-off is that we need to make sure their roots get enough airflow since containers reduce air circulation a bit. Making sure the root mass dries out between waterings is the main way we maintain that air access.
• Bottled water sometimes has minerals and sodium salt added to it for taste. If the water you're using does, that will injure or kill orchid roots, which are keenly sensitive to too many minerals in the water, and have little to no tolerance for sodium. Tap water in that case would be better, and it's important to thoroughly flush the pot when it's time to water the plant so excess water freely flows out of the drain holes to help flush out any accumulated salts/minerals. How often the plants are fertilized will also contribute to mineral buildup, as can how often they are repotted into fresh mix. (Once a year is usually sufficient.)
• Phalaenopsis orchids are usually potted in either a bark mix (often orchid bark + charcoal + perlite, or a similar blend) or sphagnum moss. Mixing the two mix types is fine, as is adding perlite (more airy than stone like pebbles, which doesn't help much because they are not porous) to sphagnum to give it some porosity to let air reach the roots.
• Using a humidifier can help alleviate stress for all sorts of indoor plants, and while not always needed for orchids, it won't hurt, especially if flower buds are reluctant to open.

Thank you for such a comprehensive reply.  Your explanation helped now I can move forward and attempt to make them more comfortable and maybe assist in their revitalization.   They are phals.