Hello Karen,

You’re definitely not alone—Michigan moles stay active all winter, and the “volcano” piles you’re seeing are classic star‑nosed mole mounds. The good news is that university extension research is very clear about what works (and what doesn’t), and you can stop the damage before spring.

Below is a practical, Michigan‑specific plan based on MSU Extension and other university sources.️

What’s Actually Happening in Your Lawn

Star‑nosed moles—common in Michigan—create large, conical piles of soil (“volcanoes”) as they dig deeper tunnels. More information at this link:

Moles in the lawn - MSU Extension

Key points from MSU Extension:

Moles do not hibernate and remain active under snow cover. More information at this link:

Prevent winter damage from moles and voles | Exclusives

Winter moisture and snow insulation often increase mole activity.

Granular baits are not effective because moles eat earthworms, not grain or seeds. More information at this link:

How do I get rid of moles in my lawn?

This explains why your bait didn’t work and why activity increased even in winter.

What You Should Do Right Now (Based on University Research)

1. Switch to the only proven control: trapping

All university extensions—including MSU, Purdue, and Rutgers—agree:

Trapping is the only consistently effective method of mole control. Baits, repellents, grub killers, and sonic devices do not reliably work. More information at this link:

Moles in the lawn - MSU Extension

Best trap types (university‑recommended)

Scissor‑jaw traps (e.g., Out‑O‑Sight style)

Harpoon/spike traps

Choker‑loop traps

These are placed directly over active tunnels.

How to find active tunnels

Step into a tunnel to flatten it.

Check 24 hours later.

If it pops back up, that’s an active run—set the trap there.

2. Don’t bother with grub control 

Purdue University emphasizes:

“Even in grub‑free lawns, moles continue to survive because the majority of their diet consists of earthworms.” More information at this link:

How do I get rid of moles in my lawn?

So grub treatments won’t reduce mole activity.

3. Don’t repair the lawn yet

MSU Extension notes that winter mole damage looks worse than it is, and turf usually recovers once moles are removed and spring growth begins. More information at this link:

Winter damage to lawns: Molds, moles and voles - MSU Extension

Wait until:

Soil thaws

Moles are controlled

Grass begins growing again

Then you can rake, topdress, and overseed if needed.

4. If you want professional help

Because you’re in Livingston County, you’re in an area where mole activity is heavy due to forest cover and moist soils. Many homeowners choose professional trapping because it’s fast and avoids trial‑and‑error.

I am not allowed to make recommendations

Look for:

Wildlife control operators (not lawn companies)

Services that use trapping, not repellents or baits

Companies that charge per mole removed, not per visit

Why This Is Happening Now

Even though it feels like the wrong season, MSU Extension confirms:

Moles stay active under snow and frozen soil.

Winter moisture brings earthworms closer to the surface.

Star‑nosed moles create more mounds than eastern moles.

Heavy fall rains + early snow cover = explosive winter mole activity.

Your timing (6–8 weeks ago) matches this pattern exactly.

Step‑by‑Step Plan for Your Yard

This week

Identify active tunnels.

Set 2–3 traps in the front yard, 1–2 on the side, and 1 in the back.

Check traps daily.

Over the next 2–3 weeks

Continue trapping until no new mounds appear.

Flatten all tunnels daily to monitor activity.

In early spring

Rake up raised turf.

Add a thin layer of topsoil if needed.

Overseed thin areas.

I hope this helps!