Thank you for your question.  This soil test is over a year old.  You should do another soil test to have an up-to-date analysis for correction of fertility needs.  Lacking a current soil test result, my answer is almost the same as last year:
I'm not in agreement with your lawn care company's recommendations. I would NOT add gypsum as it will not provide much benefit to your soil. Your calcium levels are already high.  Read the following article on gypsum use in Michigan:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/gypsum_as_a_soil_additive_use_it_or_lose_it
I'd recommend instead, the application of 1/4" of compost over the lawn to add organic material (at least once a year (this fall!)). It would be even better to work it in by core aerating your lawn (will loosen the clay too). Mulching any leaves you have into the lawn in the fall is good too. More info in the following links:
Core Aeration of Lawns-MSU
Mulch Leaves into Lawn-MSU
There is not enough definition of their phosphorous (P) and potassium (K) treatments to comment on them. You need to get more detail from your lawn service.
Looking at your soil test results I note low P & K levels which need to be increased through fertilizer and/or additive applications. Your soil test recommends 2.4# P and 1.9# K per 1000 sq ft and they should be added in 1# per 1000 sq ft amounts of each, separately and watered in afterward to prevent burning the turf. Read the following articles on adding P & K to your lawn with fertilizer and other materials:
https://extension.psu.edu/turfgrass-fertilization-a-basic-guide-for-professional-turfgrass-managers - see sections on P & K
https://ag.umass.edu/management-guides/best-management-practices-for-soil-nutrient-management-in-turf-systems
Turfgrass Fertilization Basics-PSU - lots of articles on fertilization
Fertilizing Established Cool-Season Lawns-Purdue
https://archive.lib.msu.edu/tic/mitgc/article/1972100.pdf
https://barron.extension.wisc.edu/files/2021/09/Lawn-Fertilization-A2303.pdf - recommends adding a starter fertilizer to build up P & K levels
Organic material is the partially decomposed remains of plants, animals and soil organisms that stores and supplies nutrients in the soil necessary for plant growth.  It is an essential component of healthy soils, is consumed over time and needs to be continually replaced.

Hello. Do you have a list of recommended lawn care companies that service Oakland County? I have tried several in recent years, most recently Lush Lawn, and have not been satisfied with the results of any of them. None have been able to effectively control spurge. Lawn again is looking pretty bad this spring compared to neighbors.

Thank you for your question.  MSU Extension does not endorse any retailers or brands.  Thus I am not able to make any lawn service recommendations as I might leave someone out.  Ask potential services what their spurge control plan would be for your lawn.
Articles on spurge control in the following links (you might need to spray multiple times over multiple years to eliminate the seed bank):
https://www.canr.msu.edu/nursery/uploads/files/Spotted-Spurge-E3461_FINAL-AA_2021-08-26.pdf - info could also apply to lawns
https://extension.psu.edu/lawn-and-turfgrass-weeds-spotted-spurge-chamaesyce-maculata-l
https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/spotted-spurge-chamaesyce-euphorbia-maculata/
Your last soil test in 2024 showed below optimum phosphorous and potassium and a pH on the high side of what turf likes.  Knowing the type and fertility (pH, macro-nutrient levels, CEC, etc.) of your soil is the starting point to establishing & maintaining a strong/thick turf that can resist diseases, weeds, moss and insects/grubs and look great without wasting material or $.  Have you followed the recommendations to correct the 2024 conditions, if not I'd do another one and correct any below optimum needs.  A thick healthy lawn reduces weed seed germination.
For future questions, please start a new string in Ask Extension. Thanks.