Knowledgebase
Chameleon plant #903857
Asked June 01, 2025, 8:31 PM EDT
For the last 3 years, I've done my best to pull out an infestation of chameleon plant. But, even though I try to get as much of the rhizome as possible, it keeps coming back. I do not use herbicides or pesticides in our yard. This year I filled half of a lawn and leaf bag with what I pulled. Is there anything you recommend that I could plant that would outcompete it? I heard the Bugleweed can work, but I think Bugleweed is also invasive in Maryland. How can I get rid of it?
Montgomery County Maryland
Expert Response
Hi Janet,
As you have experienced Chameleon plant (Houttuynia cordata) is a notoriously aggressive groundcover that can quickly overtake gardens and natural areas. Its underground rhizomes spread rapidly and deeply, making it difficult to control once established. Although chemical herbicides are commonly used for removal, attempting to control it non chemically proves challenging. It is an arduous and continuous process of removing all plant parts and addressing any new growth with vigilance.
It is recommended that to remove Chameleon plant without chemicals, start by digging deeply. Start at the outer edges of the patch, digging about 2 feet outside of the visible foliage and stems. Dig down at least 12 inches as rhizomes can be deep in the soil. It is useful to have a large tarp or canvas to place shovels full of soil on and sift through for pieces of rhizome, rhizome fragments, leaves, or stems, removing them and bagging them. You can replace soil removed with new soil or sift removed soil carefully into a screen (large enough grid to let soil pass through but not stem leaf or rhizome fragments) over the tarp to clean the soil before returning it to the dig site. Rhizomes, and rhizome fragments should be bagged and discarded in your trash, never composted or left behind as even small fragments will take root. Be persistent—repeat this process as needed addressing reemerging plants relentlessly. Avoid tilling the soil, as this can break the rhizomes into smaller pieces that will sprout new plants.
Once cleared you may try smothering the area with sheet mulching, using layers of cardboard or dark heavy dark landscape sheeting to block our sunlight, topped with organic mulch, this can help suppress regrowth over time. Once the invasive growth is controlled, replanting the area with native groundcovers suited to your specific site conditions as this may help to lessen future invasions.
It is not recommended to plant Bugle weed (Ajuga rattans ) as it is considered an invasive species in Maryland. Here is a link from the University of Maryland Extension that will help you to select ground covers. Here are some examples of what you may consider planting. You can try planting natives like Packera aurea also known as Golden groundsel or Golden ragwort, is fairly aggressive and grows in part sun to shady areas. Hairy alumroot (Heuchera villosa) is a shade-tolerant perennial that forms attractive, dense mounds of foliage. It is especially useful as a groundcover in woodland gardens or along shaded slopes. White wood aster (Eurybia divaricata) ispreads slowly via rhizomes and producing white flowers in late summer and early fall. The plant supports native bees and butterflies. For especially damp or low-lying areas you may want to consider ferns, sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilis) thrives in wet soils.
In areas with full sun and drier conditions, several other native groundcovers can be used to create a resilient, low-maintenance landscape. Pussytoes (Antennaria plantaginifolia) is a low-growing plant with silvery foliage that thrives in dry, sunny locations. It is also a host plant for the American Lady butterfly. Blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium angustifolium) looks like a grass but produces delicate blue flowers and grows well in sunny, well-drained areas. There are also native wild strawberry (Fragaria virginiana) that are fast-spreading growing in sun or part shade and thrives in dry soil. It produces small, sweet berries enjoyed by birds, mammals, and humans alike. Two native grasses also make excellent alternatives for sunny spots: purple lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis) and prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis). . Both provide habitat for beneficial insects and help with erosion control.
As you replace Chameleon plant with native groundcovers, be mindful of plant spacing. Avoid overcrowding, which can lead to competition and reduce the health of your plantings. Instead, give each plant room to grow into its natural form. Amending your soil with compost will improve drainage and fertility, giving native plants a strong start. All of this being said, Chameleon Plant is a challenge and it may take some time and perseverance to get under control.
I hope this information is helpful. Please let us know if you have further questions.
Christine