Knowledgebase

how to "prune" collards, tuscan kale #902704

Asked May 23, 2025, 12:57 PM EDT

I have a dozen collards and tuscan kale growing in pots and an Earth Box on our deck in a rolling garden on wheels (to move the plans throughout the day and capture moving sunlight due to tree cover). To prevent infestation by cabbage worms, I have surrounded the plants with wire towers (hardware cloth, etc) that are covered with screening at the top. The plants have been doing well as shown in the attached photo, and we are eating well. However, the leaves are hitting the tops of the towers. Succesive leaves come out from higher and higher points on the stem, which is not a problem in a traditional garden, where these plants can just continue gettng taller as the season progresses. So each set of leaves reaches the sceened ceiling of the towers sooner and sooner (and therefore are shorter). I am wondering whether I can somehow prune the plants to encourage leaves to sprout from lower down on the stem. I suspect the only option might be to cut the stems off say an inch or so above the soil to encourage sprouting from the base. This would mean an immediate halt in harvesting and a radical change in the ultimate shape and growth of every plant, as well as a pause in harvesting while new leaves sprout from the base of the stem. I have witnessed side leafing out of collard stumps that wintered over. The leaves were slow in emerging and never got very big or vigorous. Is there any good solution to this problem of having a ceiling to keep out the moths? Would it be better to cut the stem off further from the soil level, say several inches, instead close to the bottom? Or is there a growing tip of the the stem that I could trim off? Might this encourage side sprouting from below while allowing the leaves that are there to continue growing for a while. We could continue harvesting while waiting for new leaves to sprout from below? Building new and higher towers is not an option. Thanks, Mark

Montgomery County Maryland

Expert Response

Hi- we love your rolling container garden. Kale will tend to grow taller than collards. In both cases cutting the top 1/3 to 1/2 of the plant will force new growth below the cuts and perhaps from the base. You may want to experiment. Cut one plant to within a few inches of the base and cut others higher up. 

These are heavy feeders so apply a complete (contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) dry or liquid fertilizer periodically. The first number (N) should be highest because the plants need it in the greatest amount. 

Please let us know the results.

Also, hardware cloth will not exclude most insect pests. Row covers and insect netting are needed to cover the containers. From the photo, it appears the container on the far right is fully protected.
Jon

Thanks for the quick reply to my inquiry. I wonder if I snip the topmost leaf off at the right spot will that promote side sprouting while presrving the rest of the existing leaves? I will experiment as you suggest. BTW the collards have been the most vigorous, though some of the kale has gotten a little taller that the collards, but skimpier looking.

Some clarifications. My main goal was to keep the cabage worm moths out since we were so heavily infected last year (our towers were mainly chicken wire with window screen celings, which only discouraged the squirrels), so I focused on the cabbage worms.  I shielded the plants with what was available, using 1/4' or 1/2" hardware cloth where I had enough, and window screening material wrapped on the chicken wire towers where I ran out of hardware cloth. All ceilings are window screening.  I minimized the use of screenng because it cuts out so much more sunlight. I can see the difference in the plants---the ones with less screening more hardware cloth on the towers are more vigorous. The Earth Box is  1/2" made hardward cloth on 3 sids and some of the back, with a plastic panel in the rear which never faces the sun. The ceiling is window screening. That is the one doing the best. The rest are pots (2 of them in the red wagon at the edge of the photo) and have a mixture of materials on the sides (towers) and window screening on all celings. I have not seen any cabbage worm moths yet but I expect them to be excluded. My spouse thinks they will get through the 1/2" hardware cloth, but I don't. I realize other insects will get in.  We probably had aphids and white flies last year.

I have never used insect netting/row covers, but I realize that would have been the better option to wrap around the towers. Maybe next year. I have to be around and diligent to get enough sun, moving these 4 platforms multiple times per day-- and each year it gets worse--that I did not want to lose sun to a covering that would cut a lot out, like the window screening does. I don't know how insect netting/row covers compare to the window screening (fiberglass?) that I am using. 

Appreciatively,

Mark

The Question Asker Replied May 23, 2025, 4:36 PM EDT
Thanks for the details. You are making the best use of your space and available light. The insect netting materials are rated to last 5-7 years. Fiberglass screening will exclude the same insects. Not sure how they compare to insect netting in terms of light transmission.
Jon

I followed the idea of cutting  the plants off near the soil when they (collards and tuscan kale growing in containers with a screened top) became too tall for the space available at the top. I snipped thru the stems about 1 1/2 inches from the soil. Out of 5 or 6, two sprouted leaves just below the top of the stumps and became bushy plants with lots of side stems. Hooray! 

However, three shriveled up and turned brown, with no new growth at all---dead. The successful ones ocurred first-- the failed ones a few weeks later when it was much hotter. Could temp have played a role? 

My question, now, is how to"replace" the lost plants. All the plants are now too tall for their space. I am wondering if I can cut healthy looking collard or kale leaves and try to root them in water for creating new plants. Will a single leaf with some stem sprout roots like oregano, sage,eg, will?

Fall should be cool and I believe I might get some growth once I have "rootlings," altho diminishng sunlight wil be limiting.

The Question Asker Replied August 12, 2025, 4:52 PM EDT
Hi- thanks for the update. Yes, high temperatures and other stressors may have prevented re-growth in the pruned plants.

You cannot propagate kale or collards using leaves or stems. We suggest that you pull the old plants out plant seeds now for a fall harvest, despite lower light levels, and possible overwintering. Or you might be able to find local transplants.
Jon

Thanks for your response. Too bad, I was hoping I could propagate the kale ur collards with a "sprig" in water. Buying seed or new plants is the obvious alternative, but I had not thought of it, since pruning had worked initially (cooler weather, I am guessing).

Mark

The Question Asker Replied August 14, 2025, 5:02 PM EDT
Thank you, It just occurred to me that perhaps I can deal with my collards and tuscan kale being too tall, now growing up against the screens I have covered all the plant  enclosures with: is it far enough in the season to safely take off the window screening that is in the way of further upward growth? Originally I installed the screening on the tops of the towers/columns  surrounding all of the 12 plants (in containers) in order to keep out the white moth that I presumed brought an onslaught of cabbage worms last year. While the white moths reappeared this year, I saw none getting past the enclosures I had erected around all the container plants, using window  screening or 1/4" or 1/2" hardware cloth for the sides, but strictly window screening for the "roofs." Plans have been pushing up against the screen "roofs" in most cases now. 

Could I safely now remove the screen roofing, or are there other pests that I would be inviting in over  the next several months because the "roofs" being open?  Too late for the white moths of cabbage worms?

While I have not seen a single cabbage worm this season, a week ago I found about 15 or so of a smaller worm of a different color and marking, and which seem to be much less voracious eaters. I pulled off all I could find. Whatever they are, they arrived in spite of the screens anyway so they are already in. 

Mark

On Fri, Aug 15, 2025 at 9:34 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
The Question Asker Replied August 24, 2025, 10:20 PM EDT
Hi- the cabbage white butterflies are active now and will continue to reproduce into September (up to 5 generations per growing season in MD). You may have also observed the cross-striped caterpillar.

Flea beetles, whitefly, and other caterpillars are some of the pests feed on cabbage family members throughout the growing season. Insect netting is essential where insecticides are not used.
Jon
OK thanks, I had not seen any cabbage white butterflies for awhile. I do think that the cross-striped caterpillar is the one that I recently discovered and picked off. Naive of me to think that with cooler weather here, pests would cease to be a problem. I guess as long as there are attractive greens, there are critters, besides us, to partake. I will leave on the screens. Thanks you for your continuing advice.
Mark

On Mon, Aug 25, 2025 at 11:10 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
The Question Asker Replied August 25, 2025, 1:50 PM EDT

Loading ...