Lawn Edging for clay soil - Ask Extension
I am a member of a HOA landscaping committee in Erie. We are trying to get information about the pros and cons of different lawn edging to use betwee...
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Lawn Edging for clay soil #902004
Asked May 18, 2025, 1:37 PM EDT
I am a member of a HOA landscaping committee in Erie. We are trying to get information about the pros and cons of different lawn edging to use between grass and rocks.
Any information would appreciated.
Thanks, Sheryl Cost
Denver County Colorado
Expert Response
Hi Sheryl,
Thanks for your question.
The main issue being combatted by lawn edging is the is the lawn encroachment into the mulched area. In this case keeping the grass out of the rocks. Grass reproduces by seed, which is not usually a big concern in the rock mulch. Grass also reproduces by sending out runners called rhizomes (below ground) or stolon (above ground) to produce new grass plants. The most effective way but the most time consuming and labor intensive is to maintain the edge with a shovel or edging tool every couple of weeks to cut off the "runners" before they have a chance to find soil under the rocks and take root.
Most expensive option would be masonry of some sort with a layer of crushed stone below paving stones mortared together to make an impervious edge.
Steel edging is the easiest to install and lasts the longest of the flexible edging material and is generally a good solution if 6 inches wide/deep or more.
Plastic is the least expensive and comes in a variety of colors but can eventually deteriorate in the sun and need replacing. It should also be a minimum of 6 inches wide/deep.
Wood is more decorative but is a poor choice, in my opinion, because it offers many opportunities for the rhizomes/stolon to get through to the mulch. It also will rot away with time and need to be replaced.
Un-mortared bricks and pavers are also a poor choice because of the opportunity for the rhizomes/stolon to get through to the mulch.
IN my opinion, the best option is steel edging, at least 6 inches wide/deep and installed at a depth that prevents the stolon from spreading over the top.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for your question.
The main issue being combatted by lawn edging is the is the lawn encroachment into the mulched area. In this case keeping the grass out of the rocks. Grass reproduces by seed, which is not usually a big concern in the rock mulch. Grass also reproduces by sending out runners called rhizomes (below ground) or stolon (above ground) to produce new grass plants. The most effective way but the most time consuming and labor intensive is to maintain the edge with a shovel or edging tool every couple of weeks to cut off the "runners" before they have a chance to find soil under the rocks and take root.
Most expensive option would be masonry of some sort with a layer of crushed stone below paving stones mortared together to make an impervious edge.
Steel edging is the easiest to install and lasts the longest of the flexible edging material and is generally a good solution if 6 inches wide/deep or more.
Plastic is the least expensive and comes in a variety of colors but can eventually deteriorate in the sun and need replacing. It should also be a minimum of 6 inches wide/deep.
Wood is more decorative but is a poor choice, in my opinion, because it offers many opportunities for the rhizomes/stolon to get through to the mulch. It also will rot away with time and need to be replaced.
Un-mortared bricks and pavers are also a poor choice because of the opportunity for the rhizomes/stolon to get through to the mulch.
IN my opinion, the best option is steel edging, at least 6 inches wide/deep and installed at a depth that prevents the stolon from spreading over the top.
Hope this helps.
