It's hard to say, as many factors can contribute to leaf yellowing on indoor plants. We can't see the whole plant, but if these leaves are few and limited to the older (lower) foliage, then it may simply be normal shedding of older growth, in which case it's not alarming. Insufficient light, low ambient humidity, under-fertilization, under- or over-watering, a chilly draft, recent repotting, and other stresses can all trigger leaf yellowing. Of those factors, under- or over-watering is probably the most common cause, followed by "transplant shock" (repotting). Some houseplants, Dracaena included, have known sensitivities to water additives like fluoride in municipal tap water, which may cause leaf tip "burn" that could progress to leaf dieback and shedding over time.

Make sure the pot is only being watered when needed, which is when the soil becomes fairly dry to the touch at least an inch or more below the surface. If the pot sits on a saucer, empty it promptly after watering so any collected water doesn't soak back up into the soil and stress or suffocate roots, since root loss can be one reason for yellowing leaves.

If you repotted the plant in the past few weeks, the acclimation period that can cause some leaf loss should ease soon. Dracaena prefer bright indirect light -- by itself, somewhat nebulous of a term, but generally somewhere that receives a bit of direct light in front of a sunny window, or a location that is close to a window that gets only indirect light. Too far from a window, and the plant won't receive enough light to maintain a full complement of leaves, so they will age-out and shed prematurely from the bottom up. Light intensity drops fairly rapidly the further from a light source (a window in most cases) that a plant gets, so even if a spot looks decently bright to our eyes, it might not be enough light for a plant to thrive on long-term. We mention this because we can't tell how near or far the Dracaena is from the nearest window.

For now, just monitor the plant for watering needs in case you think it was getting too wet or dry between waterings. Avoid misting the foliage with water (a room humidifier is a better way to raise humidity, if needed) as wet leaf surfaces are more vulnerable to infection by fungi or bacteria that cause leaf spot diseases. (Such infections are not curable, though infected leaves could be cut off if their symptoms worsen.) Once we get further into spring, you can resume periodically fertilizing the plant as it resumes more active growth, since fertilization is typically halted during winter. If the plant hasn't been repotted in several years, consider repotting it into fresh potting mix (even if it doesn't need a larger pot) so any mineral buildup in the soil is reduced, as those residues can damage roots over time.

Miri