Knowledgebase
Questions on Homesteading #891191
Asked January 03, 2025, 1:58 AM EST
Washtenaw County Michigan
Expert Response
Hello, My name is Collin and I am a student (not at MSU, but a resident of Michigan) who has taken an interest in starting a homestead with the eventual goal of being able to supply a significant deal of my own food. I have no agricultural experience, though I do understand that this lifestyle would be an enormous task that would encompass the vast majority of my time. I currently plan to work alone, no family or friends, only growing enough to survive. I have written out some questions below. Please also note that I would prefer to do everything organically, meaning a minimum of chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Also assume that I have a large enough plot of land with sandy soil. 1. I plan on fulfilling the majority of my daily caloric intake with potatoes. I would supplement this with other vegetables, though these would be grown on a somewhat smaller scale. This would, of course, mean that I would become vegetarian. It would also be feasible that I keep a few chickens (or ducks) in order to have a supply of eggs. I would also grow nuts and fruit on the property as well. What do you think about this overall strategy? Would I be able to survive comfortably? 2. I understand that total self-reliance (as assumed in the above question) is unrealistic. What would you recommend to combat this, if buying food traditionally was not an option? I could take up trapping and fishing, though those would be more skills to learn and would occupy more of my time. Do you recommend that I grow an excess of food, in order that I may trade with my neighbors? 3. I have calculated that, according to the above strategy, I would need roughly 8000sqft of space in a plot to grow a year's supply of potatoes. To do this, I plan on growing on a 90x90ft plot. With a two-foot row spacing, this translates to 45 rows of 90 feet each, or 4000 linear feet. Assuming one plant per foot in these rows, that means 4000 potato plants. Further assuming a yield of 0.5lbs per plant (this figure being hopefully low), I would be left with 2000lbs of potatoes at the harvest. With an expected 300-350 calories per pound of potato, this would leave me with 1600-1900 calories per day for the year, of course not including having to replant for next year. In your experience, is this math accurate, at least in a very rough sense? Please note that this is only for the potatoes, and that further calories would be supplemented with other crops. 4. Crop rotation would be a difficulty. Operating one of the above 90x90ft plots would occupy most of my time, so farming multiple over the course of the growing season, each dedicated to a different crop, would be unrealistic in my eyes. Would it be possible to have four plots in total, rotating between them, but only grow potatoes on one per season, leaving the other three fallow in that time? Assuming this method, what low-maintenance techniques could I use to restore the soil of the plots while they are not being used to farm potatoes? Could I grow non-crop plants there solely to restore the soil, without harvesting or having to maintain them? 5. I understand that pests would be a threat to the potato yield. What is your opinion on using ducks to control them? I understand that they eat all types of insects, and leave potato plants untouched due to their toxicity. I have heard of individuals letting ducks loose on their potato fields over the course of a few hours as a means of keeping bugs in check. 6. The harvest season would also be difficult as an individual. I understand that some root crops can be left in the soil over the winter, and be harvested as needed. This would be beneficial because it would greatly reduce my workload. What do you think of this strategy, assuming that I stayed in Michigan? Would the freeze cause the potatoes to rot? 7. If you have no experience with Jerusalem Artichokes, please disregard the following question. What is your opinion of them? I have heard that they are extraordinarily easy to grow, requiring basically no maintenance, with the trade-off being that they are difficult to digest. I think they may make a good "famine food," meaning that they could supply my caloric need in the event of an emergency, seeing as how their high yield can be relied upon. Would it be wise to grow them? If not needed to sustain myself, would they function well as feed for the ducks or chickens? 8. How could I obtain agricultural experience before starting a subsistence farm myself? Do you have any recommendations for Washtenaw County? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much for your time.
Hi Colin, Thanks for your note. This is a very ambitious effort, especially since you have never gardened before. I like that you seek possible places to gain experience. there are always opportunities to participate with community gardens where there are often educational programs and garden neighbors are are keen to share. You could also take a formal program such as the MSU organic farmer training program.
If you have some land already i recommend you improve the soil as much as possible before growing for your dinner. Sandy soil is great when there are heavy rains as it drains quickly but difficult to increase organic matter, which is important especially in organic production. Take a soil sample and have it analyzed. See MSU Garden soil sample instructions. Plant a cover crop on the soil such as cereal rye mixed with winter pea in early May, let them grow till just as they start to flower (rye sends up the grain head, that is its flower). Peas supply nitrogen and rye supplies carbon, both important to improve soil. then cut them down (mower or weed whip) and let dry for a couple days them turn them into the soil with a tiller. let them break down into the soil for ~ 10 days before you plant. If you have manure add on top of the cut cover crop and turn in with cover crop plant materials. This mix supplies food for soil microbes and nitrogen for your plants. Get some good quality (Dairy doo for example) compost to use during the growing year. You do not put manure on when plants are growing for sake of food safety. Regarding your food sources: I think you will need more protein than you can grow. Potatoes have relatively no protein. Soybean is good but growing enough and processing soy (to make tofu for example) is a LOT of work after it is grown. You can grow dry beans but not sure you can get enough in that garden. Eggs need to be consumed in moderation like all foods. Being a vegetarian can be a bit learning curve and growing your own food can be a learning curve but together they are a huge learning curve. Perhaps consider supplementing your efforts with purchased bean products to obtain enough protein. Remember if you grow nuts they take a lot of room and several years before they produce. This is enough for now. think about this, ask around (extension office) for farms that offer training or CSAs that offer working on the farm in return for a share of food. Consider taking classes through extension. Attend conferences on gardening (MIFFS, Small Farm conference) here in Michigan. I have a curriculum that will be ready in a few months on vegetable production for beginning farmers. All the very best and feel free to reach out once you have found some answers. Also check with the Washtenaw nature conservancy office as they have many great programs and possible mentor sources. I know there are community gardens there too.All the very best and feel free to reach out once you have found some answers
especially since you have never gardened before. I like that you seek
possible places to gain experience. there are always opportunities to
participate with community gardens where there are often educational programs and garden neighbors are are keen to share. You could also take a formal program such as the MSU organic farmer training program.
If you have some land already i recommend you improve the soil as much as possible before growing for your dinner. Sandy soil is great when
there are heavy rains as it drains quickly but difficult to increase organic matter (adding compost, manure and growing cover crops), which is important especially in organic production.
Take a soil sample and have it analyzed. See MSU Garden soil sample instructions. Plant a cover crop on the soil such as cereal rye mixed with winter pea in early May, let them grow till just as they start to flower (rye sends up the grain head, that is its flower). Peas supply nitrogen and rye supplies carbon, both important to improve soil. then cut them down (mower or weed whip) and let dry for a couple days them turn them into the soil with a tiller. Let them break down into the soil for ~ 10 days before you plant. If you have manure add on top of the
cut cover crop and turn in with cover crop plant materials. This mix supplies
food for soil microbes and nitrogen for your plants. This can also be
regarded as a crop rotation, so always consider the families of crops
and cover crops when you are following each other (plant in different rows at least). Get some
good quality (Dairy doo for example) compost to use during the growing year to feed plants as they grow. Note that you do not put manure on when plants are growing for sake of food
safety.
Regarding your food sources: I think you will need more protein
than you can grow. Potatoes have relatively no protein. Soybean is good but growing enough and processing soy (to make tofu for example) is a LOT of work after it is grown. You can grow dry beans but not sure you can get enough in that garden. Eggs need to be consumed in moderation like all foods. Being a vegetarian can be a bit learning curve and growing your own food can be a learning curve but together they are a huge learning curve. Perhaps consider supplementing your efforts with purchased bean products to obtain enough protein. Remember if you grow nuts they take a lot of room and several years before they produce.
This is enough for now. think about this,
ask around (extension office) for farms that offer training or CSAs
that offer working on the farm in return for a share of food. Consider taking classes through extension and attending field days. Speak with farmers, visit farms and go to the Family farm conference in Kalamazoo in March.
I have a curriculum that will be ready in a few months on
vegetable production for beginning farmers.
All the very best and feel free to reach out once you have found some answers. Also check with the Washtenaw nature conservancy office as they have many great programs and
possible mentor sources. I know there are community gardens in that county too. All the very best and feel free to reach out once you have found some answers but do try to start small to learn, try and adjust your approach.
Hello, My name is Collin and I am a student (not at MSU, but a resident of Michigan) who has taken an interest in starting a homestead with the eventual goal of being able to supply a significant deal of my own food. I have no agricultural experience, though I do understand that this lifestyle would be an enormous task that would encompass the vast majority of my time. I currently plan to work alone, no family or friends, only growing enough to survive. I have written out some questions below. Please also note that I would prefer to do everything organically, meaning a minimum of chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Also assume that I have a large enough plot of land with sandy soil. 1. I plan on fulfilling the majority of my daily caloric intake with potatoes. I would supplement this with other vegetables, though these would be grown on a somewhat smaller scale. This would, of course, mean that I would become vegetarian. It would also be feasible that I keep a few chickens (or ducks) in order to have a supply of eggs. I would also grow nuts and fruit on the property as well. What do you think about this overall strategy? Would I be able to survive comfortably? 2. I understand that total self-reliance (as assumed in the above question) is unrealistic. What would you recommend to combat this, if buying food traditionally was not an option? I could take up trapping and fishing, though those would be more skills to learn and would occupy more of my time. Do you recommend that I grow an excess of food, in order that I may trade with my neighbors? 3. I have calculated that, according to the above strategy, I would need roughly 8000sqft of space in a plot to grow a year's supply of potatoes. To do this, I plan on growing on a 90x90ft plot. With a two-foot row spacing, this translates to 45 rows of 90 feet each, or 4000 linear feet. Assuming one plant per foot in these rows, that means 4000 potato plants. Further assuming a yield of 0.5lbs per plant (this figure being hopefully low), I would be left with 2000lbs of potatoes at the harvest. With an expected 300-350 calories per pound of potato, this would leave me with 1600-1900 calories per day for the year, of course not including having to replant for next year. In your experience, is this math accurate, at least in a very rough sense? Please note that this is only for the potatoes, and that further calories would be supplemented with other crops. 4. Crop rotation would be a difficulty. Operating one of the above 90x90ft plots would occupy most of my time, so farming multiple over the course of the growing season, each dedicated to a different crop, would be unrealistic in my eyes. Would it be possible to have four plots in total, rotating between them, but only grow potatoes on one per season, leaving the other three fallow in that time? Assuming this method, what low-maintenance techniques could I use to restore the soil of the plots while they are not being used to farm potatoes? Could I grow non-crop plants there solely to restore the soil, without harvesting or having to maintain them? 5. I understand that pests would be a threat to the potato yield. What is your opinion on using ducks to control them? I understand that they eat all types of insects, and leave potato plants untouched due to their toxicity. I have heard of individuals letting ducks loose on their potato fields over the course of a few hours as a means of keeping bugs in check. 6. The harvest season would also be difficult as an individual. I understand that some root crops can be left in the soil over the winter, and be harvested as needed. This would be beneficial because it would greatly reduce my workload. What do you think of this strategy, assuming that I stayed in Michigan? Would the freeze cause the potatoes to rot? 7. If you have no experience with Jerusalem Artichokes, please disregard the following question. What is your opinion of them? I have heard that they are extraordinarily easy to grow, requiring basically no maintenance, with the trade-off being that they are difficult to digest. I think they may make a good "famine food," meaning that they could supply my caloric need in the event of an emergency, seeing as how their high yield can be relied upon. Would it be wise to grow them? If not needed to sustain myself, would they function well as feed for the ducks or chickens? 8. How could I obtain agricultural experience before starting a subsistence farm myself? Do you have any recommendations for Washtenaw County? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much for your time.