Native plants for erosion control - Ask Extension
I recently purchased a home in a new development adjacent to a wetland buffer. The soil has no structure; rocks, vegetation, etc.
What are some op...
Knowledgebase
Native plants for erosion control #890725
Asked December 11, 2024, 6:25 PM EST
I recently purchased a home in a new development adjacent to a wetland buffer. The soil has no structure; rocks, vegetation, etc.
What are some options for increasing nutrients and deep rooting plants? I have taken to burying logs and mixing woodchips with the soil in an attempt to slow water run off.
Kent County Delaware
Expert Response
Hopefully more of those young trees will not be cut down as that will contribute to erosion of the slope. Burying or half burying the wood logs will slow the erosion and redirect the water sideways, also slowing it.
Following is a link to Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat an Conservation Landscaping in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed.
Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat and Conservation Landscaping in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed | FWS.gov
This is an excellent guide for native plant identification and placement. In the back pages there are lists of plants for specific situations and sites. (Plants with a Purposes pgs. 66-73). Once you find a list of plants for your situation, you can see the plants and its cultural needs in the middle section (Plant information section pgs. 11-66).
Native plants are best for this type situation as they usually have either very deep roots or extremely fibrous root systems meant to hold soil in place on slopes. They have evolved with the native soils and therefore adapt better than introduced plants and need little amendments or fertilizers to thrive.
Try to layer this slope as nature would have intended with canopy trees (oak, maple, hickory), understory trees ( dogwood, redbud, serviceberry), shrubs (witch hazel, summersweet, dogwood, NJ tea, American beautyberry, viburnum) and then herbaceous plants and ferns.
You did not mention if you have a deer problem, but I noticed there is not much understory. If deer are a problem you can cross reference your plants with the list on p.73 or review them against this document from Rutgers University:
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/deer-resistant-plants/
If you have questions about specific plants so not hesitate to contact us either via Ask Extension or our Sussex County helpline<personal data hidden>.
Following is a link to Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat an Conservation Landscaping in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed.
Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat and Conservation Landscaping in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed | FWS.gov
This is an excellent guide for native plant identification and placement. In the back pages there are lists of plants for specific situations and sites. (Plants with a Purposes pgs. 66-73). Once you find a list of plants for your situation, you can see the plants and its cultural needs in the middle section (Plant information section pgs. 11-66).
Native plants are best for this type situation as they usually have either very deep roots or extremely fibrous root systems meant to hold soil in place on slopes. They have evolved with the native soils and therefore adapt better than introduced plants and need little amendments or fertilizers to thrive.
Try to layer this slope as nature would have intended with canopy trees (oak, maple, hickory), understory trees ( dogwood, redbud, serviceberry), shrubs (witch hazel, summersweet, dogwood, NJ tea, American beautyberry, viburnum) and then herbaceous plants and ferns.
You did not mention if you have a deer problem, but I noticed there is not much understory. If deer are a problem you can cross reference your plants with the list on p.73 or review them against this document from Rutgers University:
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/deer-resistant-plants/
If you have questions about specific plants so not hesitate to contact us either via Ask Extension or our Sussex County helpline<personal data hidden>.
Hopefully more of those young trees will not be cut down as that will contribute to erosion of the slope. Burying or half burying the wood logs will slow the erosion and redirect the water sideways, also slowing it.
Following is a link to Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat an Conservation Landscaping in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed.
Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat and Conservation Landscaping in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed | FWS.gov
This is an excellent guide for native plant identification and placement. In the back pages there are lists of plants for specific situations and sites. (Plants with a Purposes pgs. 66-73). Once you find a list of plants for your situation, you can see the plants and its cultural needs in the middle section (Plant information section pgs. 11-66).
Native plants are best for this type situation as they usually have either very deep roots or extremely fibrous root systems meant to hold soil in place on slopes. They have evolved with the native soils and therefore adapt better than introduced plants and need little amendments or fertilizers to thrive.
Try to layer this slope as nature would have intended with canopy trees (oak, maple, hickory), understory trees ( dogwood, redbud, serviceberry), shrubs (witch hazel, summersweet, dogwood, NJ tea, American beautyberry, viburnum) and then herbaceous plants and ferns.
You did not mention if you have a deer problem, but I noticed there is not much understory. If deer are a problem you can cross reference your plants with the list on p.73 or review them against this document from Rutgers University:
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/deer-resistant-plants/
If you have questions about specific plants so not hesitate to contact us either via Ask Extension or our Sussex County helpline<personal data hidden>.
Following is a link to Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat an Conservation Landscaping in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed.
Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat and Conservation Landscaping in the Chesapeake Bay Watershed | FWS.gov
This is an excellent guide for native plant identification and placement. In the back pages there are lists of plants for specific situations and sites. (Plants with a Purposes pgs. 66-73). Once you find a list of plants for your situation, you can see the plants and its cultural needs in the middle section (Plant information section pgs. 11-66).
Native plants are best for this type situation as they usually have either very deep roots or extremely fibrous root systems meant to hold soil in place on slopes. They have evolved with the native soils and therefore adapt better than introduced plants and need little amendments or fertilizers to thrive.
Try to layer this slope as nature would have intended with canopy trees (oak, maple, hickory), understory trees ( dogwood, redbud, serviceberry), shrubs (witch hazel, summersweet, dogwood, NJ tea, American beautyberry, viburnum) and then herbaceous plants and ferns.
You did not mention if you have a deer problem, but I noticed there is not much understory. If deer are a problem you can cross reference your plants with the list on p.73 or review them against this document from Rutgers University:
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/deer-resistant-plants/
If you have questions about specific plants so not hesitate to contact us either via Ask Extension or our Sussex County helpline<personal data hidden>.
Hi Judy,
Thank you for this resource. We have only just moved to DE a year ago and are still establishing.
We saw a group of deer maybe twice in the last 8 months so I'm not too worried about them. There is a black walnut tree on the property line and a few immature Holly's in the wooded area. I'm unsure what the remaining trees are. Between the trees and house (slope is north of the building), it's in constant shade. There's a fair amount of skunk cabbage closer to the retention pond, unsure if I could transplant some of those.
Browsing the provided pdf I'm leaning towards wild ginger or pen. Sedge would be good for ground cover and (if I'm reading this correctly) are both shade tolerant?
When initially looking towards solutions, various species of willow were suggested to create living fences (shrub variants, not large tree varieties). I did not see any such species and assume they are not native and not advisable to use?
Any additional guidance you can provide is appreciated
-Sean
Willows (Salix genus) generally require a bit more sun in order to flourish. 2 native willow shrubs are Salix humilis (Prairie willow full sun to part shade) and Salic discolor (Pussy willow - makes the lovely gray flower buds - requires full sun though). Viburnums could be placed instead of willows. These would all make nice hedges or breaks and are great for slope erosion.
Viburnum dentatum (Southern Arrowwood) p53
V. nudum (Possumhaw) p53
V. prunifolium (Black haw) p53
Skunk cabbage needs to be in a fairly wet area and is really hard to transplant after the first year of growth. It has a root which pulls the stem down into the muck so that it is completely covered. You would need to transplant first year plants that have a stem still showing. It would be easier to gather seeds in late spring and sow them where you want the new plants.
https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/plant-of-the-week/symplocarpus_foetidus.shtml
Ferns would be a great choice for this area as the conditions sound perfect and they spread fairly rapidly when conditions are right. There are a number of native ferns in all sizes and leaf texture. And they are all deer resistant. Ferns are a great way to add texture and shades of green, gray and copper to the understory. pgs.11-13. One of my favorites for filling in a shady area and slope erosion (which I was surprised is not in the pdf) is Ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris). It is one of the larger native ferns, both in height, 3-6', and blade size (8-12" wide).
https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=285874
Many of the listed Carex species would also be good for this area as they prefer more shade and moisture over the native warm season grasses, which prefer full sun. They don't tend to spread like grass, but are more clumping. Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pennsylvanica) is the most grass like in growth. Wild ginger competes well with the roots of trees.
Other plants (Shrub like) that would do well on this slope under the trees include:
Cephalanthus occidentalis (Buttonbush) p45
Comptonia peregrina (Sweetfern - Not a fern though) p.45
Itea virginica (Virginia sweetspire) 47- Great fall color
Kalmia angustifolia & K. latifolia (Sheep laurel & Mountain Laurel) p47
Lindera benzoin (Spicebush) p48
As you get closer to your backyard and away from the water, some nice edging plants that would offer gorgeous visuals for your family include:
Heucheras (They come in all colors and do best at a woodland edge with mostly shade.
Tiarellas - similar to Heuchera, but taller with more of a wand like flower.
Rhododendron (includes Rhododendron & Azalea)- There are several natives in this family that do well in this area with most of the rhodies being evergreen and the azaleas being deciduous. pgs 49-50
If you are looking for local places to get some of these native plants, nurseries in your area include: Inland Bays Garden Center - Frankford, Peppers Greenhouses - Milton, East Coast Garden Center - Millsboro, UDEL Delaware Botanic Garden plant sale (https://canr.udel.edu/udbg/events-education/spring-plant-sale-2024/) [2025 date 4/23-26] and each county's Master Gardener unit has a plant sale each year. (Dates to be determined)
Izel Nurseries is a retail reseller of plugs. Plugs are 2" x 5" plants, usually sold in flats of 16-50 that are mostly roots and a very cost efficient way to buy a large number of the same plant.
Every Plant Counts. Grow Natives. | IzelPlants.com
At our Demo Garden in Georgetown, we have many of these plants growing in different environments. We will reopen in April and you can arrange a visit by calling our office<personal data hidden>.
Viburnum dentatum (Southern Arrowwood) p53
V. nudum (Possumhaw) p53
V. prunifolium (Black haw) p53
Skunk cabbage needs to be in a fairly wet area and is really hard to transplant after the first year of growth. It has a root which pulls the stem down into the muck so that it is completely covered. You would need to transplant first year plants that have a stem still showing. It would be easier to gather seeds in late spring and sow them where you want the new plants.
https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/plant-of-the-week/symplocarpus_foetidus.shtml
Ferns would be a great choice for this area as the conditions sound perfect and they spread fairly rapidly when conditions are right. There are a number of native ferns in all sizes and leaf texture. And they are all deer resistant. Ferns are a great way to add texture and shades of green, gray and copper to the understory. pgs.11-13. One of my favorites for filling in a shady area and slope erosion (which I was surprised is not in the pdf) is Ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris). It is one of the larger native ferns, both in height, 3-6', and blade size (8-12" wide).
https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=285874
Many of the listed Carex species would also be good for this area as they prefer more shade and moisture over the native warm season grasses, which prefer full sun. They don't tend to spread like grass, but are more clumping. Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pennsylvanica) is the most grass like in growth. Wild ginger competes well with the roots of trees.
Other plants (Shrub like) that would do well on this slope under the trees include:
Cephalanthus occidentalis (Buttonbush) p45
Comptonia peregrina (Sweetfern - Not a fern though) p.45
Itea virginica (Virginia sweetspire) 47- Great fall color
Kalmia angustifolia & K. latifolia (Sheep laurel & Mountain Laurel) p47
Lindera benzoin (Spicebush) p48
As you get closer to your backyard and away from the water, some nice edging plants that would offer gorgeous visuals for your family include:
Heucheras (They come in all colors and do best at a woodland edge with mostly shade.
Tiarellas - similar to Heuchera, but taller with more of a wand like flower.
Rhododendron (includes Rhododendron & Azalea)- There are several natives in this family that do well in this area with most of the rhodies being evergreen and the azaleas being deciduous. pgs 49-50
If you are looking for local places to get some of these native plants, nurseries in your area include: Inland Bays Garden Center - Frankford, Peppers Greenhouses - Milton, East Coast Garden Center - Millsboro, UDEL Delaware Botanic Garden plant sale (https://canr.udel.edu/udbg/events-education/spring-plant-sale-2024/) [2025 date 4/23-26] and each county's Master Gardener unit has a plant sale each year. (Dates to be determined)
Izel Nurseries is a retail reseller of plugs. Plugs are 2" x 5" plants, usually sold in flats of 16-50 that are mostly roots and a very cost efficient way to buy a large number of the same plant.
Every Plant Counts. Grow Natives. | IzelPlants.com
At our Demo Garden in Georgetown, we have many of these plants growing in different environments. We will reopen in April and you can arrange a visit by calling our office<personal data hidden>.
