The holes are minor with regards to plant health, fortunately, and no treatment is needed, nor would it be advisable to use an insecticide (not many are labeled for use indoors) without having identified the culprit. The pattern of chewing suggests either an adult beetle (possibly a weevil) or a caterpillar. Slug/snail chewing can look similar, but they would be less likely to climb that high on an indoor plant where the ambient humidity is lower and they risk drying out. You could try inspecting the plant after dark to see if you can find the culprit, especially if it's hiding on the underside of the leaves. It's also possible the damage was done a while ago and the insect (or slug/snail) is no longer present. Leaves cannot heal from damage, so it sometimes can be difficult to tell how fresh or old the damage is.

Did the plant spend the summer outside? If so, the chewing probably took place there, and few insects that might accidentally hitch a ride inside with the plant in autumn will continue to be a problem. Outdoors, lots of insects can chew leaves without causing serious damage, such as katydids, crickets, grasshoppers, caterpillars, beetles, and more. If you do see an insect on the leaves in the coming days/weeks, feel free to send us photos for ID, and we can advise you on how to treat it (if it's needed).

The leaf tip browning is very minor and also not of concern that this point. Dracaena (the plant pictured), like some other houseplants, can be sensitive to a buildup of certain municipal tap water additives, such as fluoride, and over time this might cause some tissue death in the tip of the leaf. It's an aesthetic issue, but not really one of long-term plant health. Avoiding over-fertilizing (which can also gradually lead to a build-up of minerals in the potting mix) will also help to prevent plant stress, and periodic repotting (perhaps once every 2-3 years, give or take) will help the roots stay healthy by refreshing the potting mix to remove buildups of fertilizer residue, tap water minerals, and any fluoride. Repotting doesn't necessarily have to move a plant into a larger pot if the roots haven't yet outgrown the current pot, but it will help to remove as much of the old potting mix as possible and replacing it with new, which will maintain good drainage.

Over-watering and under-watering can also contribute to leaf tip or edge browning and crisping, but the photo doesn't suggest that this is the case here. Even so, you can help ensure you're not watering when it's not needed by feeling the soil at least an inch or two deep into the potting mix. When it becomes somewhat dry to the touch at that depth, then a thorough watering will benefit the plant. If damp when checked instead, watering can probably wait, as it's okay for the top inch or more of soil to get fairly dry between waterings. If the pot sits on top of a saucer for catching drips and drained water, empty it promptly after watering so that excess water doesn't seep back into the drain holes, risking drowning the roots or adding to any residue buildup.

In winter, low indoor humidity can also cause some houseplants to develop crispy, brown leaf tips or edges. Using a room humidifier in that case can help to avoid this; don't mist foliage, as that doesn't raise humidity enough and could contribute to the spread of any leaf spot infections instead.

Miri

Thank you for your quick response. I will look tonight for any insects. I have looked once but did not c any. My plant has never been outside. Thank you
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You're welcome.