Teresa,
Thank you for your question about lawn care.  Choosing the best solution for your lawn will take study and reflection about your final goal.
There are lots of comparison articles on the internet, but this comes directly from ask extension.  I copied the entire article and am including other references at the end.

https://ask2.extension.org/kb/faq.php?id=852762

Liquid vs Mechanical Lawn Aeration #852762

Asked October 10, 2023, 12:29 PM EDT

I've been trying to find an article about liquid versus mechanical lawn aeration on the MSU extension website with no luck. My new lawn care service is using a liquid aeration which is a new concept to me. I've been searching the web for any useful information about how effective this is versus mechanical aeration. I found some information from a sort-of trust worthy website but I would really like to hear from you. Thank you!

Kent County Michigan

Expert Response

Hello,

Liquid aeration involves spraying a liquid that contains microbial food products, enzymes, or bacteria over the lawn. It provides coverage for your entire lawn, while a manual aerator is limited to the holes it makes. Without the need for holes, liquid aeration can be done any time of the year without damaging new grass as the core would. Liquid aeration allows every spot—on a microscopic level—to be more permeable and soak up everything it needs.

Mechanical aeration involves using a mechanical object to punch holes in the soil and allow oxygen, nutrients, and water to penetrate deep into the ground. It alleviates soil compaction in established turf, encourages root growth by increasing oxygen to roots, and allows seed, lime, and fertilizer to enter into the soil. Compaction occurs primarily on the soil surface.

There is no information about liquid versus mechanical lawn aeration on the MSU Extension website.

So please check this information from the University of Colorado and the University of Nebraska:

This is from PlantTalk Colorado at this link:
https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/lawns/1545-liquid-lawn-aeration/

This is from Getting Your Lawn Ready for Summer – Aeration – University of Nebraska Extension – Lancaster County at this link: https://lancaster.unl.edu/aeration

Core Aeration
In lawns, core aeration is the best way to reduce soil compaction. Plan to aerate compacted areas at least once yearly, but if the compaction is severe, aeration twice yearly is even better. Due to the high levels of clay and silt in Nebraska soils, hollow-tine core aeration is most effective.

Other parts of the country with sandier soil may use solid-tine or spike aeration, but those methods are not effective in clay/silt soil. This includes “aeration shoes,” which are basically spiked aeration tools worn on your feet. Solid-tine and spike aeration push soil particles apart to allow the spike to enter the ground but increase compaction between the spike holes.

Hollow-tine core aeration pulls small plugs of soil out of the turf canopy, opening up the soil surface. As the soil cores break up, they filter back down into the grass canopy and speed up thatch break-down. This adds organic matter to the soil and improves soil particle aggregation. The soil openings are quickly filled by the growth of new grassroots. Repeated aeration improves soil structure, oxygen, water infiltration, and grass root growth.

Cores should be at least three inches deep to be most effective. If weather conditions are dry at the time you plan to aerate, water the lawn deeply two days beforehand to make it easier for the aerification machine to penetrate compacted soil and increase the depth of cores.

Wait until your lawn is actively growing to aerify. This allows the grass to recover from any damage done during aerification quickly and maximizes new root growth. Cool season grasses, including Kentucky bluegrass, fescues, and perennial ryegrass, can be aerated in spring from early April through the end of May and again in fall from late August through the end of October. Warm-season grasses, such as zoysia and buffalograss, should also be aerated when they are growing actively, from late May to late August.

Liquid Lawn Aeration
Recently, a homeowner called Nebraska Extension asked if liquid aeration is effective. They found products online claiming to provide an easy way to relieve soil compaction and wondered if they were effective. Many such products, mostly from web-based companies, claim to reduce soil compaction, but you might also find some lawn companies promoting similar products.

One web-based product claims it is "The ultimate soil conditioner for clay or compacted soil. Replaces the need for mechanical or core aeration. Reduces soil compaction and loosens clay.”

Each company has its own private mixture, but they often contain soap-like materials, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, liquid humates (basically liquid organic matter like seaweed), and “biostimulants” like molasses. The directions are to spray the mixture onto the grass and water it in.

There is no evidence that any of these products have been scientifically evaluated for effectiveness. Bottom line - it is wishful thinking to believe such a solution will have any effect on compacted soil.
Gypsum, which contains calcium sulfate (CaSO4), is another product often marketed as a cure-all for soil compaction, but it is also not effective at relieving soil compaction. Gypsum can aid in the reduction of high soil salt levels in well-drained soils. When applied to the soil, the calcium molecule Ca+2 takes the place of salt’s sodium molecule Na+1 on the surface of soil particles. This allows sodium to be leached out of the soil - assuming the soil has enough water percolation for leaching. There is no chemical substitute for core aeration in relieving soil compaction.

Replied October 10, 2023, 10:10 PM EDTThis helps. Thank you.
On Oct 10, 2023 10:10 PM, Ask Extension <> wrote:

Dear Bill, here's the response to your question:

Hello,

Liquid aeration involves spraying a liquid that contains microbial food products, enzymes, or bacteria over the lawn. It provides coverage for your entire lawn, while a manual aerator is limited to the holes it makes. Without the need for holes, liquid aeration can be done any time of the year without damaging new grass as the core would. Liquid aeration allows every spot—on a microscopic level—to be more permeable and soak up everything it needs.

Mechanical aeration involves using a mechanical object to punch holes in the soil and allow oxygen, nutrients, and water to penetrate deep into the ground. It alleviates soil compaction in established turf, encourages root growth by increasing oxygen to roots, and allows seed, lime, and fertilizer to enter into the soil. Compaction occurs primarily on the soil surface.



Please check this information from the University of Colorado and the University of Nebraska:

This is from PlantTalk Colorado at this link:
https://planttalk.colostate.edu/topics/lawns/1545-liquid-lawn-aeration/

This is from Getting Your Lawn Ready for Summer – Aeration – University of Nebraska Extension – Lancaster County at this link: https://lancaster.unl.edu/aeration

Core Aeration
In lawns, core aeration is the best way to reduce soil compaction. Plan to aerate compacted areas at least once yearly, but if the compaction is severe, aeration twice yearly is even better. Due to the high levels of clay and silt in Nebraska soils, hollow-tine core aeration is most effective.

Other parts of the country with sandier soil may use solid-tine or spike aeration, but those methods are not effective in clay/silt soil. This includes “aeration shoes,” which are basically spiked aeration tools worn on your feet. Solid-tine and spike aeration push soil particles apart to allow the spike to enter the ground but increase compaction between the spike holes.

Hollow-tine core aeration pulls small plugs of soil out of the turf canopy, opening up the soil surface. As the soil cores break up, they filter back down into the grass canopy and speed up thatch break-down. This adds organic matter to the soil and improves soil particle aggregation. The soil openings are quickly filled by the growth of new grassroots. Repeated aeration improves soil structure, oxygen, water infiltration, and grass root growth.

Cores should be at least three inches deep to be most effective. If weather conditions are dry at the time you plan to aerate, water the lawn deeply two days beforehand to make it easier for the aerification machine to penetrate compacted soil and increase the depth of cores.

Wait until your lawn is actively growing to aerify. This allows the grass to recover from any damage done during aerification quickly and maximizes new root growth. Cool season grasses, including Kentucky bluegrass, fescues, and perennial ryegrass, can be aerated in spring from early April through the end of May and again in fall from late August through the end of October. Warm-season grasses, such as zoysia and buffalograss, should also be aerated when they are growing actively, from late May to late August.

Liquid Lawn Aeration
Recently, a homeowner called Nebraska Extension asked if liquid aeration is effective. They found products online claiming to provide an easy way to relieve soil compaction and wondered if they were effective. Many such products, mostly from web-based companies, claim to reduce soil compaction, but you might also find some lawn companies promoting similar products.

One web-based product claims it is "The ultimate soil conditioner for clay or compacted soil. Replaces the need for mechanical or core aeration. Reduces soil compaction and loosens clay.”

Each company has its own private mixture, but they often contain soap-like materials, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, liquid humates (basically liquid organic matter like seaweed), and “biostimulants” like molasses. The directions are to spray the mixture onto the grass and water it in.

There is no evidence that any of these products have been scientifically evaluated for effectiveness. Bottom line - it is wishful thinking to believe such a solution will have any effect on compacted soil.

Gypsum, which contains calcium sulfate (CaSO4), is another product often marketed as a cure-all for soil compaction, but it is also not effective at relieving soil compaction. Gypsum can aid in the reduction of high soil salt levels in well-drained soils. When applied to the soil, the calcium molecule Ca+2 takes the place of salt’s sodium molecule Na+1 on the surface of soil particles. This allows sodium to be leached out of the soil - assuming the soil has enough water percolation for leaching. There is no chemical substitute for core aeration in relieving soil compaction.

https://www.ecosia.org/search?q=liquid%20aeration%20vs%20core%20aeration&addon=opensearch

I hope this helps!