Using cardboard for yard conversion - Ask Extension
Several neighbors in my neighborhood are starting to get rid of grass in their yards, replacing with CO native plants. I have benn planning this also...
Knowledgebase
Using cardboard for yard conversion #878902
Asked July 26, 2024, 1:06 PM EDT
Several neighbors in my neighborhood are starting to get rid of grass in their yards, replacing with CO native plants. I have benn planning this also. What I see being done is laying cardboard on top of the grass over the surface to be replanted, covering the cardboard with mulch, and then planting the plants. No other soil mitigation or geting rid of the grass. Is this ok to do in the long run? MUCH easier than what I had planned. Would appreciate your opintion. Thank you.
Larimer County Colorado
Expert Response
Hello,
This can work, if you water often in order to decompose the cardboard - it usually takes several months for this to fully work. It also takes a lot of cardboard. But may not fully kill the grass and you may have patches coming back in - it's good to understand this and have a plan in place as to how to address any grass that may reappear.
What other options are you considering?
This can work, if you water often in order to decompose the cardboard - it usually takes several months for this to fully work. It also takes a lot of cardboard. But may not fully kill the grass and you may have patches coming back in - it's good to understand this and have a plan in place as to how to address any grass that may reappear.
What other options are you considering?
Thank you. I really appreciate your email.
My other thought was to kill the grass first (probably by covering it), then digging out the grass. Seems daunting to me...
I'll appreciate your thoughts.
Thank you,
Jennifer
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S22 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
-------- Original message --------
From: Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>>
Date: 7/26/24 5:21 PM (GMT-07:00)
To: jwiley427 <<personal data hidden>>
Subject: Re: Using cardboard for yard conversion (#0148820)
Hi Jennifer,
Actually, you're thinking of this in the right way. The easiest thing to do would be to kill off the turf (you can use herbicides, see below), mow the dead turf down as short as possible, and then plant INTO the dead turf. The turf decomposes, acts like a mulch (no weeds!) and you can place your wood mulch on top.
If you are willing to use chemistry, you can use any non-selective herbicide, such as glyphosate, hort vinegar (acetic acid), or other products. You'll spray the turf and then reapply the herbicide as needed until the turf is dead. You'll reapply according to the instructions on the label. It may take 2-3 applications. I know there may be concerns about using herbicides and I am happy to answer any questions you have about this process.
If I can share a personal experience with you: I did this earlier this year. I had a turf space that wasn't necessary. I did three applications of glyphosate, mowed it short, and then planted into the dead turf and covered it with 4" of wood mulch. I did keep watering it during the entire time - it helps the herbicide absorb better and made it easy to plant.
Removing the sod takes away all of the great organic matter and nutrients that are in the soil. It also takes away the best soil you have in your landscape. Leaving it, if possible, is a better option. And there will be far fewer weeds too.
Do what works best for you - and what makes the most sense for your budget and your time.
Actually, you're thinking of this in the right way. The easiest thing to do would be to kill off the turf (you can use herbicides, see below), mow the dead turf down as short as possible, and then plant INTO the dead turf. The turf decomposes, acts like a mulch (no weeds!) and you can place your wood mulch on top.
If you are willing to use chemistry, you can use any non-selective herbicide, such as glyphosate, hort vinegar (acetic acid), or other products. You'll spray the turf and then reapply the herbicide as needed until the turf is dead. You'll reapply according to the instructions on the label. It may take 2-3 applications. I know there may be concerns about using herbicides and I am happy to answer any questions you have about this process.
If I can share a personal experience with you: I did this earlier this year. I had a turf space that wasn't necessary. I did three applications of glyphosate, mowed it short, and then planted into the dead turf and covered it with 4" of wood mulch. I did keep watering it during the entire time - it helps the herbicide absorb better and made it easy to plant.
Removing the sod takes away all of the great organic matter and nutrients that are in the soil. It also takes away the best soil you have in your landscape. Leaving it, if possible, is a better option. And there will be far fewer weeds too.
Do what works best for you - and what makes the most sense for your budget and your time.
BTW, my two closest neighbors have apple trees (not honeycrisp).
Thank you.
Thank you.
Jennifer
Thank you very much for your email. I really appreciate your advice. It's not too late in the season to take this project on, right? My only concern is the selection of plants at local nurseries. Would you recommend that I wait until Spring?Another question...I'd like to plant a fruit tree, or two. If I plant a honeycrisp apple tree, do I need to plant two for cross pollinating?Thank you very much.
Jennifer
Thank you very much for your email. I really appreciate your advice. It's not too late in the season to take this project on, right? My only concern is the selection of plants at local nurseries. Would you recommend that I wait until Spring?
Jennifer
Another question...I'd like to plant a fruit tree, or two. If I plant a honeycrisp apple tree, do I need to plant two for cross pollinating?
Thank you very much.
Jennifer
Hi again,
You just sent in your application for the Master Gardener program! I apologize that I failed to respond to your inquiry about the apples.
Most apples can be cross pollinated by crabapples - and the fact that your neighbor has two Honeycrisp, you should have enough cross pollination. But you do want to make sure things are blooming at the same time. Other compatible apple cultivars include McIntosh, Golden Delicious, Jonathan, Empire, and Granny Smith.
As for your conversion project, you could always do things now with the intent to plant next spring. Depending on what you do with the grass, spring can get tricky because it's often cold and may affect timing. And there is no harm in leaving dead turf through the winter - you'll want to leave it in place as a groundcover. Then you can plant next spring.
If you use chemistry, plan on at least 4 weeks, possibly 6, to fully kill the turf - starting now, this will be mid-to-late September. Depending on our fall, you could still plant this year (shop the sales) or just leave everything in place and plant next spring when plant selection is better.
You just sent in your application for the Master Gardener program! I apologize that I failed to respond to your inquiry about the apples.
Most apples can be cross pollinated by crabapples - and the fact that your neighbor has two Honeycrisp, you should have enough cross pollination. But you do want to make sure things are blooming at the same time. Other compatible apple cultivars include McIntosh, Golden Delicious, Jonathan, Empire, and Granny Smith.
As for your conversion project, you could always do things now with the intent to plant next spring. Depending on what you do with the grass, spring can get tricky because it's often cold and may affect timing. And there is no harm in leaving dead turf through the winter - you'll want to leave it in place as a groundcover. Then you can plant next spring.
If you use chemistry, plan on at least 4 weeks, possibly 6, to fully kill the turf - starting now, this will be mid-to-late September. Depending on our fall, you could still plant this year (shop the sales) or just leave everything in place and plant next spring when plant selection is better.
