Most Satsuki azalea varieties that we're familiar with are winter-hardy here in Maryland, so if you have the option, you may want to plant it outside in the garden. Some azaleas are grown as houseplants, but usually different varieties. Our azalea diagnostic page includes information about what conditions azaleas prefer (generally, semi-shade and soil that is moist, well-drained, and acidic). Don't be too alarmed about the long list of potential pests and diseases; we include them because of how commonly azaleas are grown in our region and the typical diagnostic questions gardeners have; most garden plants similarly have a variety of pests and diseases they could be vulnerable to under the right conditions.

Can you share a photo of the plant (we're unclear why plastic wrap is used on the root ball) and the insect in question, if possible? Soil-dwelling insects and similar arthropods are not often a problem (several help to fertilize plants by decomposing already-dead plant material and oxygenate the root zone). Azaleas are definitely sensitive to over-watering, but when they are stressed by poor root oxygen levels due to that saturation, the foliage tends to turn a sickly yellow-green color, droop, and fall off. Leaves can also yellow (especially if they are a more lemon-yellow with no wilting) as a normal part of spring leaf shed, so by itself, yellowing isn't always a sign of trouble. (This is where a photo will help us tell what is going on.)

If you intend to keep the plant in a pot indoors (a pot outdoors is riskier with having it survive the winter), you can repot it with fresh potting mix, though what size of pot it should go into depends on the root ball size. Anything that drains well should be fine, and it will need fairly bright light while indoors. We may be able to get more specific about its needs and prognosis once we can see what it looks like.

Miri

Good Morning!

You're welcome.