Camellias are sensitive to soil moisture levels and don't want to be kept too moist as this can promote root rot, though the symptoms of over-watering usually look different - yellow-green leaf color with wilting or leaf drop. In this case, the patchy brown and dead foliage is likely due to winter injury, a common occurrence with Camellias as they are on the northern edge of their cold tolerances in our region. (Some cultivars are more cold-resistant than others as well, though typically local garden centers try to stock only those with more proven cold tolerance.) The weather patterns we experienced this winter where very mild spells were followed by rapid chilling and/or freezes caused damage to a variety of evergreens.

In order to determine when plants may benefit from supplemental water, it's simplest to feel the soil around six inches deep. If the soil is becoming somewhat dry to the touch at that depth, then a thorough watering is probably helpful to alleviate any plant stress from dry weather. If damp to the touch instead, watering can probably wait. As a very rough guideline, new plantings that are irrigated when the weather has been warm and dry might only need a watering about once a week.

Soil acidity next to house foundations is sometimes inadequate for acid-loving shrubs (Camellia, Azalea, Rhododendron, Hydrangea, etc.) due to the leaching of minerals in the concrete, though the symptoms of the kinds of nutrient deficiencies that can result are not visible here and this would not cause the type of leaf damage in the photo. Adjusting acidity in that case, while possibly useful for long term plant health, isn't necessary just yet. A laboratory soil test is the most practical and reliable way to determine if the current acidity (pH) levels are within the preference range for Camellia.

Taking a closer look, we do not see scale on the foliage in the photo, but you or your daughter can inspect the leaf undersides as the scale will be readily visible if present. Scale do not cause plant dieback like this unless present in large numbers, and the type of scale causing such damage would also be producing honeydew and sooty mold, neither of which is evident here.

For now, just keep monitoring the plant for indications of worsening symptoms (leaf spots from winter injury cannot heal, but they shouldn't worsen if nothing else is going on). During periods of insufficient rain, the plant can also continue to be monitored for watering needs, and any completely-brown twig tips can be trimmed off. If the plant's roots and dormant buds are otherwise unscathed, new leaf growth should emerge over the next few weeks. If a small number of older leaves yellow and shed in the meantime, that is normal for evergreen shrubs as they resume active growth in spring and/or shed damaged leaves.

Miri