Bromeliads naturally die off once the bloom is finished, though they usually form pups (juvenile plants attached to their base) before they die off completely. This sounds like the "parent" plant may be dying, though, perhaps from crown rot if the soil stayed too damp. Can you share photos of the plant? It's hard to tell if this is expected dieback or a sign of a problem without being able to see it. Unfortunately, the leaves won't root, but if the plant does pup, the pups can be separated and grown on their own once they reach a minimum of a third the size of the parent plant.

Miri

I didn’t see any pups, but sure what they look like. I think this plant is dying. In the photo attached the plant is staked up.

Thank you for the photo. It's difficult for us to see enough detail, but we agree that based on the appearance of the lower leaf bases and the experience you're having of them detaching easily, the plant may indeed by dying from a type of crown rot. If so, it's unfortunately not treatable. (The crown is the main point of origin of plant growth, in this case near the plant's base where the leaves connect to the main stem emerging from the roots.)

Bromeliads of this type do absorb moisture through their "cups" (formed by the leaf attachment points), but it's sometimes challenging to give them the right amount while not over-watering. Indoor cultivation in this regard is sometimes more difficult when it comes to avoiding this type of rot since we get much poorer air circulation than a plant would outdoors. The more stagnant air slows evaporation and might invite opportunistic pathogens. For example, outdoor- or greenhouse-grown bromeliads can benefit from daily flushing-out of the cups with fresh water (whether from irrigation or rain), while indoor-grown bromeliads sometimes do better in a higher-humidity environment where the cups can actually become slightly dry between waterings. In either situation, it's best to not have both the cup filled with water and the root zone damp simultaneously and consistently.

All you can do for now is to give the plant bright light (in front of a sunny window if possible, though a plant accustomed to dimmer light may need a week or so of acclimation to not sunburn). Discard any leaves that detach easily and only water it as needed to keep the cups from becoming completely dry, freshening the water when doing so by flushing-out the cups with fresh water. Even if some roots have rotted away, since bromeliads don't rely on their roots for moisture and nutrients, it's possible an otherwise-intact plant will still produce pups if it gets enough light. Pups will look like miniature bromeliad leaf clusters emerging from within the lower leaf cups of the parent plant. A plant might only produce one pup or it could produce several (only one will form at any given leaf junction), depending in part on how much energy it has stored. Worst-case, if the plant has crown rot instead, then the base will continue to disintegrate as the lower leaves die out at their attachment point and no pups will be able to form.

Miri