fig tree leaves turning yellow - Ask Extension
My fig tree's leaves have started turning yellow and falling off. When I look online, it appears that just about any stress can cause this: overwate...
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fig tree leaves turning yellow #803458
Asked July 28, 2022, 11:06 AM EDT
My fig tree's leaves have started turning yellow and falling off. When I look online, it appears that just about any stress can cause this: overwatering, under watering, too much heat, parasites, re-potting, etc. I have not re-potted it since May 2020. My late father grew it for me from a cutting of one of his trees, so it has a lot of sentimental value for me. It is around 4 years old. It has borne fruit for the last 2 years and you can see that it has fruit now. I don't know if I should move it to a spot with more shade-or whether I should consider re-potting in case the roots are too wet from all the rain we've had in the past few weeks. I don't see any evidence of insects. I tried growing a fig in the ground 7 or 8 years ago but it died over the winter so I'm reluctant to put this one in the ground instead of a container. What should I do? Any suggestions appreciated!
St. Mary's County Maryland
Expert Response
We suggest repotting the fig into a larger container, since they generally need at least a 25-gallon or so size of pot to thrive when grown in a container. A half whiskey barrel (wood or plastic), as an example, would suffice, though even larger is ideal.
The best circumstances for maximum growth and yield with minimal stress is to grow the plant in the ground. We acknowledge your reluctance but the conditions in St. Mary's county should allow for figs to overwinter reliably well with minimal protection, at least among the commonly-grown hardier cultivars. As an insurance against failure given its sentimental value, you could always take one or more cuttings from this plant to propagate before planting, since fortunately figs root fairly easily.
In either situation (potted or in-ground), a full-sun exposure is best, and figs do require good drainage for their roots. If kept in a container, feel the soil a few inches deep to determine when watering is needed. The soil should be relatively dry to the touch when probed at that depth before the plant will need water. The same method works well for monitoring plants in the ground for water, but the depth checked should increase to about six inches down. Similarly, if container-grown, make sure the pot has several drain holes to release any excess water, and don't place it on top of a saucer (unlikely for pots this size, but it bears mentioning). You are correct that yellowing leaves can result from various sources of stress, but since fig has few serious pests and diseases (root rot notwithstanding), yellowing tends to revolve around root moisture stress (too much or too little, usually the former).
You may find our Growing Figs in Maryland page and a couple of blog entries (winterizing figs and the elusive fig) helpful for other tips.
Miri
The best circumstances for maximum growth and yield with minimal stress is to grow the plant in the ground. We acknowledge your reluctance but the conditions in St. Mary's county should allow for figs to overwinter reliably well with minimal protection, at least among the commonly-grown hardier cultivars. As an insurance against failure given its sentimental value, you could always take one or more cuttings from this plant to propagate before planting, since fortunately figs root fairly easily.
In either situation (potted or in-ground), a full-sun exposure is best, and figs do require good drainage for their roots. If kept in a container, feel the soil a few inches deep to determine when watering is needed. The soil should be relatively dry to the touch when probed at that depth before the plant will need water. The same method works well for monitoring plants in the ground for water, but the depth checked should increase to about six inches down. Similarly, if container-grown, make sure the pot has several drain holes to release any excess water, and don't place it on top of a saucer (unlikely for pots this size, but it bears mentioning). You are correct that yellowing leaves can result from various sources of stress, but since fig has few serious pests and diseases (root rot notwithstanding), yellowing tends to revolve around root moisture stress (too much or too little, usually the former).
You may find our Growing Figs in Maryland page and a couple of blog entries (winterizing figs and the elusive fig) helpful for other tips.
Miri
Thanks for your timely advice! I have put my little fig in the ground and will bundle it up this winter. When is the best time to take a cutting for propagation? I will probably take two. Can I just remove the top (since it's rather spindly)? And maybe it will grow more shrub like as a result? Do you think there is a problem with the branch that is almost on the ground (the one in the front has 4-5 figs on it and isn't very high off the ground)?
Becky
Our references state that early spring is the best time to take hardwood cuttings on fig (the preferred type of cutting). You can also try layering if you want, which can be achieved by pinning a low branch to the ground so that at least one node (the point leaves connect to the stem, even if no leaf is growing there currently) touches bare ground. Contact with the moist soil should encourage rooting; you can probably lightly cover it with mulch do both keep it dark and to slow the drying of the exposed soil. It may take several weeks or longer to start developing roots, and once rooted enough, it can be cut off the parent plant and moved for planting in another spot.
Cuttings use one-year-old wood, which would be the tip growth. Branch-tip trimming can also encourage bushiness, yes, though figs tend to do this on their own eventually anyway, especially if winter kills a few inches of the upper stems now and then.
The low-hanging branch shouldn't be a big problem, but if you don't want to use it for layering you can trim it off in a future year, once the plant has settled-in and filled-in a bit more.
Miri
Cuttings use one-year-old wood, which would be the tip growth. Branch-tip trimming can also encourage bushiness, yes, though figs tend to do this on their own eventually anyway, especially if winter kills a few inches of the upper stems now and then.
The low-hanging branch shouldn't be a big problem, but if you don't want to use it for layering you can trim it off in a future year, once the plant has settled-in and filled-in a bit more.
Miri
