Knowledgebase
Native clover in maryland #779455
Asked December 27, 2021, 10:56 AM EST
Baltimore City County Maryland
Expert Response
Clover by itself is not a good lawn alternative since it has a winter dormancy. When its leaves are lost during this period, the exposed soil is more vulnerable to erosion and colonization by weed seeds. It can be mixed with turfgrass, but tends to take over in areas where the lawn struggles. The clovers typically used in lawns (genus Trifolium) are not native, as you suspect, and the only native Trifolium in Maryland is a state-rare, threatened species occurring only in very particular habitats in our western counties. It is not commercially available.
Lawn alternatives are numerous depending on your aesthetic preferences and site conditions. Ground-covering perennials and low shrubs are typical choices, but any combination of options is doable and plantings can be done gradually if there are budget or labor concerns. Any new planting - even of a drought-tolerant species - will require monitoring for irrigation needs as it gets established in its first year or so. Lawns don't need irrigation during our summer months as they can be allowed to go dormant, though this will make them look browner until autumn.
Areas not currently planted can be temporarily covered in arborist wood chip mulch if desired while planting begins gradually. This may be one of the most cost-effective approaches since this material tends to be quite inexpensive.
You can learn more about lawn alternatives with the information and links within this page: https://extension.umd.edu/resource/lawn-alternatives
How many plants will be needed for your 1,500 sq. ft. area will greatly depend on what plants are being used (as some spread more than others) and the overall design you wish to develop.
While it may seem that non-lawn plantings would be higher-maintenance, they are actually lower-maintenance than lawn after establishment, plus are much more valuable to wildlife (more so than clover). Although the initial cost is higher than purchasing grass seed and lawn fertilizer, the long-term costs are reduced since fewer inputs are needed to keep the plants growing well. In all cases, a diverse mix of plant species is best for resiliency, seasonal interest, and the aforementioned wildlife benefit. Here is a page that may provide some inspiration or ideas: https://extension.umd.edu/resource/converting-lawns-diverse-landscapes-case-studies
Miri
If the area receives at least 6 hours of direct sun daily in summer, then it is considered "full sun". If not, it's "partial sun" to "shade" (if it receives 3 or fewer hours of direct sun). Most groundcovers/perennials fit into either category; not many can tolerate both. That said, you don't have to have a single type of groundcover throughout the area; choose what's best for any particular portion of the yard and use a mix of species overall. That means that your lower-lying damp spot can be planted with a different species than other areas. Similarly, if you have some areas that are shadier than others, use different species in each. They will mingle where their tolerances overlap, but otherwise thrive in separate conditions, making the planting overall as low-maintenance as possible.
We can't make specific plant suggestions without more information about the site conditions. A photo may be helpful, yes, if it shows the overall part of the yard of concern; you can attach the image file to your reply.
Regarding the dog, though, no groundcover stands-up to dog digging very well. Turf, actually, tends to be the best for this, which is why it's popular when people need a relatively dog-proof part of the yard (and why dog park plantings are largely turfgrass). Even so, the root disturbance and soil compaction of frequent use will inhibit the growth of any plants in that area. Perhaps a different ground-covering material would be the most practical for a particular part of the yard that the dog uses most, such as artificial turf or pet-safe mulch. (Consult with a vet if needed.)
Several evergreen groundcover options are given in our groundcover list page. It's not an exhaustive list; you may need to visit local nurseries to see what species they offer to expand or narrow-down potential choices. Native species are preferable for wildlife, but few of our native groundcovers are evergreen. At the very least, do not use invasive species like Vinca minor, English Ivy, Japanese Pachysandra, or Ajuga.
The vast majority of perennials and groundcovers sold by area nurseries will be reliably winter-hardy. All go dormant in winter (in that they don't actively grow above-ground) but some are evergreen (keep their leaves in winter). Overall, more species of groundcovers are deciduous (losing leaves in winter) than evergreen. Not removing the dead foliage in winter, though, will allow it to protect the soil from erosion and weed seeds as a natural mulch.
Affordable is difficult to quantify. For some native plants, nurseries offer smaller pot sizes called "plugs" - they are younger plants than what is typically sold, and sometimes sold in greater quantities (not singly) to reduce the price even further. They will be less expensive, but will take longer to establish and fully cover the soil. How quickly any of them cover ground depends on what species they are and how closely they are spaced apart upon planting. The least-expensive approach would be to sow seed, but fewer species are available this way, and here too, this extends further how long it will take for the planting to fully cover the ground. Plus, with starting from seed, it may be harder to recognize weed seedlings as they germinate to know what to remove. You will need to decide if any of these trade-offs in speed are worth the reduction of expense; there is no right or wrong way to do it, just what works best for you.
Miri