The cuttings can probably be rooted in soil as opposed to water, especially if you dip the cut ends in rooting hormone powder or gel. If you wish to keep them in water for now, gently transfer them to potting mix ("potting soil") when roots appear. In your container of choice (make sure it has drain holes), make a hole in the soil before inserting the cutting so the force of pushing it into the soil doesn't break fragile roots; then, you can gently push the soil up against the cutting or use water to settle it into place and fill-in the rest of the hole.

You may need to maintain high humidity around the cuttings until they root further (and especially if they are not yet rooted) to avoid leaf desiccation as they establish. You can try tenting them under a clear plastic bag or container if the cuttings won't get overheated from sun exposure, and gradually acclimate them to lower ambient humidity levels by airing-out the container for longer periods every few days (only once rooted).

As for potting soil type, opt for anything well-draining; some brands produce a cactus & succulent blend, which is quite suitable to citrus. A bagged blend made for African violets should work as well. Or, you can use a general-purpose potting mix and amend it yourself with drainage-boosting components like supplemental perlite.

Citrus does not overwinter outdoors in Maryland - our winters are too cold. You can, however, grow them outdoors in containers during the growing season (frost-to-frost, approximately mid-May to mid-October) and move them indoors for the rest of the year. Locate them in a very sunny window or under bright artificial lights, whichever your preference. Here is more information on the care of citrus year-round in our area: https://extension.umd.edu/resource/growing-dwarf-citrus

Miri