Thanks for the question.

Two comments before addressing your questions:

1). We as Master Gardeners strongly recommend that a soil test be done every four or five years on yards. This really is the best way to determine accurately what type and composition of fertilizer to apply. In the absence of such a test, all we can do is to make a guess as to lawn fertilizer. If you want to pursue this option, please see:

https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/testing-services

2). In Minnesota the optimum time for fall yawn fertilizing is between now (mid-August 2021) and mid-October. Generally by October the ground will have started to freeze. Once this begins, any subsequent fertilizer that is applied has little chance of being taken up by the grass. When this occurs, the grass could easily experience fertilizer burn. In short, we would suggest that you only fertilize once this fall and forego the “pre-winter feed”. See the following lawn care calendar that the University of Minnesota has prepared:

https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar

With respect to a specific fertilizer, we would suggest a granular fertilizer in contrast to a fertilizer that is applied as a liquid spray. This means that the fertilizer will slowly release its nutrients, which is the best way to prepare your grass for the winter. Soil in Hennepin County is usually high in phosphorous so avoid any fertilizer having phosphate. Typically sandy loam soils tend to drain rather quickly and nitrogen levels become low. Look for a fertilizer that is between 15% and 20% nitrogen. Soil potassium (potash) levels in your area can show much variation so there may be no need to add any further or only a moderate need. Look for a fertilizer having 5% to 10% potash. In short, use a fertilizer that shows a composition of approximately 15-0-8. There will be no need to add any crabgrass preventer.

As volunteer Master Gardeners of the University of Minnesota, we cannot recommend any specific product or commercial vendor. However I did check the websites of various garden centers and big box stores in your area and found lawn fertilizers with compositions of 25-0-6 , 20-0-12, and 18-0-8. You may or may not be able to find fertilizers with these exact compositions. They are often termed “winter fertilizer” or similar words. Any fertilizer with such a designation would be fine.

As to weed control, look for a broad leaf herbicide whose label specifically states that it is effective against thistle and creeping charlie. Your spraying could start any time after the third week of August and extending through September. You may want to consider two applications: one just before Labor Day and one about three weeks later.

Please get back to us with any additional questions you might have. Good Luck!

Thanks for the response.  Unfortunately I can't provide an accurate answer for your question.  On the soil testing website that was sent, there is a contact number.  Ring them up and ask what their current turn-around time is?  I believe that individual tests now run about $17/sample.  Consider sending in two separate samples from two disparate sites in your yard.  When you get your soil analyses back, and if you are so inclined, take some pictures of the sheets having the analyses so that we can revisit our previous recommendations.

Thanks for using our forum.

Thanks for the response.

The 32-0-12 fertilizer will probably be acceptable. Again I want to emphasis that in the absence of a soil analysis, it is very difficult to provide you with meaningful and accurate answers. Now would be a good time to apply it. As was previously suggested, try to obtain a fertilizer that indicates it is a “winter fertilizer”.

With respect to grub control, this will have no impact upon the voles in your yard. Voles do not eat grubs. They strictly are seed and plant eaters. Grub control may impact the diet of moles who do feast on grubs, worms, and small insects. However the most effective way to deal with moles is by trapping. I am a bit puzzled why you think that your lawn is experiencing damage from the presence of grubs. If, perhaps, you are thinking about Japanese Beetle grubs, it is now too late to apply any type of effective control procedure. In short, I see no reason to deal with grub control this fall. Here are some sites providing information on these and related points:

https://www.almanac.com/pest/voles

https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/how-trap-moles

https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/vole-damage

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/how_to_choose_and_when_to_apply_grub_control_products_for_your_lawn

https://www.crabgrasslawn.com/grubs-in-lawn/

Please get back to us if you have any further questions. Good Luck!!

Glad to have been of assistance.  Thanks for using our forum.