Hello Bob,

Be prepared I am sending you a lot of information which I hope helps your situation - Please let me know if this helps!!

First, I want to identify Poa annua by Habitat, Also Known As, Look-Alikes, Management & Control (this information is from Michigan State University)

Annual Bluegrass (WA) — Poa annua — Family: Poaceae — Grass

Habitat: Annual bluegrass is unique among weeds. There is probably no other weed that is so widely adapted to variations in mowing height, site conditions and cultural practices. Annual bluegrass is the most common and widely distributed grassy weed in the world. It is mentioned as a weed in nearly every plant commodity. Turfgrass management professionals, including golf course superintendents, sports field managers, sod producers, and lawncare operators, have spent years trying to eradicate annual bluegrass from their turf swards. Annual bluegrass (Poa) is one of the most invasive weeds in turfgrass stands. It is also one of the most difficult to control. Efforts to find chemical controls for Poa have been thwarted by its diverse genetic make-up. Poa is officially described as a cool-season winter annual. Winter annuals are plants that germinate in late summer to early-fall, overwinter, and produce seed in the spring. Typical winter annuals die soon after seed production as daytime air temperatures increase. Poa annua, although commonly referred to as annual bluegrass, is actually a diverse group of different biotypes with varying characteristics. Annual bluegrasses in warmer climates like the southern U.S., do indeed perform as a typical winter annuals. These "annual" bluegrasses are classified as Poa annua var. annua L. Timm. In the northern part of the U.S. and much of Canada, there are biotypes that produce seed in the spring and then continue to grow as perennials. This somewhat peskier bluegrass is termed Poa annua var. reptans (Hauskn) Timm. The fun doesn't stop there. Somewhere between true bunch-type annual bluegrass and stoloniferous [perennial] annual bluegrass are hundreds if not thousands of different biotypes. Clearly, identifying controls that have excellent activity on annua, reptans, and everything in-between has been difficult for good reason. These biotypes are not just segregated by climatic region or area of the country. It is possible, in-fact likely, to have several biotypes of Poa on the same property. The segregation is not only determined by climatic zone, but also by management and cultural conditions such as irrigation, mowing height, and compaction. Poa populations are so diverse that they can easily adapt to everything from unirrigated roughs to closely maintained putting greens. This diversity makes Poa a bit of a moving target. Predictable Poa control would likely exist if 100 percent of the Poa population was truly annual. Objections to annual bluegrass are most often related to seed production (which can happen in any month in moderate climates), surface interference, color and disease susceptibility.

Also Known As...

• Poa
• 'Poe'-coined by television golf commentators
• Poa annnua
• annual meadowgrass
• dwarf meadowgrass
• wintergrass
• causeway-grass
• spear-grass
• annual spear-grass
• dwarf spear-grass
• sixweeks-grass
• Michigan bent

Look-Alikes: Annual bluegrass can be carelessly confused with creeping bentgrass. Bentgrass lacks the prominent mid-rib of annual bluegrass and has a rolled vernation.

Management: Management of annual bluegrass is an area for extended debate. There is certainly a link between traffic and annual bluegrass pressure. Mowing height and soil compaction are often associated with increasing annual bluegrass populations. Many believe that limiting irrigation can produce addition stress on annual bluegrass helping to expose it to summer disease pressure. It is likely, if not certain, that there are individuals of annual bluegrass that are well adapted to almost every set of management factors.

Control: Chemical control of annual bluegrass has long been the brass ring for turfgrass researchers. Because of its wide genetic make-up, consistent Poa control has been elusive. Many products have initially looked promising, however, sporadic control from site-to-site or season-to-season have limited the use of these products. Currently there are several preemergence herbicides that are labeled for Poa control. These products can be very effective but will ultimately only delay the infestation of Poa. Early-acting Type II plant growth regulators (flurprimidol and paclobutrazol) have been used with reasonable success on creeping bentgrass greens and fairways. These products must be used throughout the growing season for best results. Initial Poa population will dictate how aggressive the approach should be (take it slow and easy). Early-acting Type II PGRs are currently the best option for creeping bentgrass putting greens.

Caution! This may work! Postemergence herbicides for Poa control face an interesting challenge. If the product works then the Poa is removed and overseeding is probably going to be necessary. The use of postemergence herbicides for Poa control should always be viewed as a renovation. Managers of finely managed turf areas will not tolerate large dead patches. Ask yourself, what will it look like if the Poa dies? Ethofumesate has been used with some success particularly for removing Poa from tall fescue and perennial ryegrass. These cool-season species are very tolerant of ethofumesate. Bispyribac-sodium is currently labeled for the selective removal of Poa from perennial rygegrass and creeping bentgrass tees and fairways. The best results from bispyribac have been achieved when multiple low rate applications (6 apps @ 10 g ai/A) are made on a three- to- seven-day interval. The most effective treatment period is during the warmest part of the growing season. It will be necessary to consult the latest labels for these products as they change almost annually. Many turf managers are convinced they want to remove annual bluegrass from their stands until it starts dying and then they change their mind. A sober assessment of your Poa population should precede a conversion program. Experimenting with treatment protocols in nursery or out-of-play areas is advised.

I realize that some of the focus is on golf courses, the same is true for home lawns as well

Disclaimer: Always read, understand, and follow the label directions. Mention or exclusion of specific products does not represent an endorsement or condemnation of any product by Michigan State University.

The above information is also at this link:

http://www.msuturfweeds.net/details/_/annual_bluegrass_47/

Second, I want to identify Poa trivialis (from Purdue University)

Biology: Poa trivialis is a perennial grass that spreads by stolons (creeping, above-ground stems) forming light green patches in turf. It is best adapted to shady, moist, or over-watered sites, and because of this, it often appears in mixtures with Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass recommended for shady areas. Two theories persist about how Poa trivialis is introduced to a turf stand. Some believe that Poa trivialis grows naturally over most of the world and Poa trivialis seeds or stolons can germinate after lying dormant for many years, thus contaminating a turf stand. Most believe that it is introduced as a contaminant in turf seed and seed producers have since self-imposed Poa trivialis growing and shipping restrictions to help prevent this.

Control: Currently, nonselective control with glyphosate followed by reseeding may offer the best chance of control of Poa trivialis. A herbicide called sulfosuron is now available for use by professionals. Additionally, bispyribac-sodium (Velocity) is labeled for Poa trivialis control, but we are still trying to determine its effectiveness at various rates and timings. There is no perfect product available for the selective control of Poa trivialis as of May 2006.

Disclaimer: Always read, understand, and follow the label directions. Mention or exclusion of specific products does not represent an endorsement or condemnation of any product by Michigan State University.

The above information is also at this link: https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ay/ay-41-w.pdf

This may explain why the Blue labeled Bluegrass seed did not germinate - I read for Annual Bluegrass (Poa annua) - If you desire to control these weeds in your lawn or garden, the best thing to do is remove as much as you can by hand and mow before or during flowering to prevent as much seed production as possible. Cultural practices such as fertilization and watering that promote the vigor of your desired species or mulching are also helpful in reducing all weed emergence and competition. In the lawn, a late-summer application of a crabgrass preemergence herbicide that target crabgrass and other weeds at the point of germination should help reduce future winter annual infestations (example active ingredients include dithiopyr, pendimethalin and prodiamine). The same is true for ornamental garden beds, however there are different herbicides available (example active ingredients include trifluralin, pendimethalin, isoxaben and oxyflurofen). There are a few products labeled for use in vegetable gardens, all with the active ingredient trifluralin. In all cases, such herbicides should not be applied in areas where other species will be planted as seed. As with any pesticide application, be sure to read and follow all labeled instructions. Check out the article: Spring-blooming lawn and garden weeds: A focus on winter annual identification and management at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/spring-blooming-lawn-and-garden-weeds

Also, what does the label on the Blue labeled Bluegrass seed say for germination? - The percent of pure seed that germinates under ideal conditions. Simple guidelines are never to purchase seed with less than 70 percent germination. A higher germination percentage is better. Check out: Tips for Reading a Seed Label at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/purchasing_quality_turfgrass_seed_read_the_label

Per policy, I cannot endorse or recommend lawn care companies that treat Poa

Hello Bob,

Since you are not 100% sure it is Poa Annua and/or Poa Trivialis, I highly recommend you get a confirmed diagnosis from the MSU Diagnostic Plant Lab with your images and a sample. Their website has the form and instructions: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/

Please send your images to the MSU Diagnostic Plant Lab. The lab strongly encourages clients to email digital images prior to bringing or sending physical samples. Images can be sent to <personal data hidden>. 

The lab has horticulturalists and turfgrass experts on their staff that will examine your sample. There is a $20-25 dollar fee. 

After the MSU Diagnostic Plant Lab lets you know and when you are ready to send a sample - Complete details of submitting a sample are at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/submit-samples/

JUST SO I AM CLEAR - The lab does not want a sample sent in first, they want to assess the problem by the images that you send through the email first. Then if they need a sample they will request that you send one in. When that time comes, complete details of submitting a sample are at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/submit-samples/