Hello Florence,

You're right, that does seem incorrect. I am going to forward your question to one of our soil test experts. 

Cindy Heath

UVM Extension Master Gardener

Hi Florence!

First:  congratulations that your soil test shows that your lawn is in good shape in terms of macro- and micro- nutrients!

Alas: pH is the most critical measurement and you are wise to focus on raising the pH from 5.4 up to, at least 6.4 or so.  You probably already know this, but pH is on a logarithmic scale.  So a pH of 5.4 is ten times more acidic than one of 6.4.....    (Right:  yikes!)

On the plus side:  if, perchance, you'd like to grow blueberries, rhododendrons, azaleas, mountain laurels, lilacs or conifers  (or other plants that prefer acidic soil):  you could convert lawn to plant space!  (Master Gardener here:  plants are so much better for our environment than lawns... :-)   I love Mountain Laurels -- you could grow them so easily!  (Assuming correct light and water requirements, of course.)

OK:  focusing on raising the pH of your lawn:  it's important to do so gradually -- you don't want to burn plant roots.  So I'm glad you asked and didn't rush out to apply the full amount of lime!

There are different types of lime that you can apply and since your magnesium level looks fine, you can probably use either regular high-calcium lime (calcite) or high-magnesium lime dolomite.  You can also use wood ash, if you happen to have a fireplace or wood stove.  Of course:  most of us don't produce enough wood ash to address a half-acre lawn....but it's a nice way to recycle wood ash and help to raise pH at the same time.  I simply spread a little around my acid-loving plants since we just have a fireplace.  But if you produce more:  incorporate this into your lawn renewal plan.  

Here's a nice guide to using Wood Ash to raise soil pH from the University of NH's extension service:   https://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/Resource004042_Rep5718.pdf

Raising (or lowering) pH is a slow process.....to avoid harming grass or plants.  The good news is that you can apply lime at any time of the year...but it works slowly. (Well:  the safest, slow change versions do....you may find "fast-acting" options at garden centers;  if so:  beware and do your research.  As with "fast-acting" garden fertilizers:  sometimes the rushed burn rate isn't healthy for your plants in the long run).  

So we recommend spreading the applications out over two years.  You can make a partial application now....then another in the fall.....and take a new soil test next Spring.  You will probably need to go another year....but this will help you gauge the pace of application and ensure your lawn isn't harmed by too much lime at a time.

If you have a lawn spreader, either drop or rotary, that will make it easier to apply. The bag will have recommended settings for the type of spreader.

If we get adequate rain that will help the lime work its way into the soil. If you make 2 applications this year, take another soil sample a year from now and see if the pH has moved up for you. 

This information from an Iowa State Extension's fact sheet on changing your soil's pH may help you gouge how much to add now:

"The pH of highly acidic soils can be raised by incorporating limestone into the soil. Hydrated lime works quicker, but over liming is more likely. The table below shows pounds of ground limestone needed per 100 square feet to raise the pH to 6.5 in the top 6 inches of soil.

Wood ash will also raise the soil pH and make the soil more alkaline.....

Modifying a soil's pH is usually a slow process and may require repeat treatments. It is often most effective to use a combination of treatments. However, don't expect a quick fix or a miracle cure."

I would start out with a greatly reduced level of lime -- if you plan to apply some now and some in the Fall: reduce that 200 lbs per 1000 square feet to at least half the amount (and then apply the second half in the Fall).  You could also be conservative and apply just 1/4 now....1/4 in the Fall....and then take a new soil test next Spring.  This is a long-range change goal....and gradual improvements will help your lawn

Sending this to you now....but also aware that you've added a second question about the safety of applying lime and/or fertilizer in close proximity to your water well.  I'll do some research on that query and get back to you.

Note, though, that you do not need to add fertilizer at this time.  Your soil report shows that your lawn's nutrients are in good shape -- once you get the pH lifted:  your grass will be able to consume the nutrients in your lawn.  

I'll get back to you about the risks of applying lime and/or fertilizer near your water well.

Hoping this helps,

- Robilee

Following up here on your second question about your water well.

With apologies:  I haven't received this question before....but the answers I've researched all seem logical:

You want to be extra-careful applying anything near your domestic water well.  (Of course!) 

This article may be of help here:   http://cceonondaga.org/resources/protecting-your-well-water

So if you have an area of lawn that feeds into your domestic water well area:  I would avoid adding lime or any fertilizer in that area.  True:  you can research any potential additions and make the call, yourself, about how dangerous they might be...and many lime application options aren't too bad....but I would personally avoid taking such risks.  

But, as I'm sure you know, you can have your water tested to see what you are dealing with.  (My brother and I own a camp, inherited from our family, over in NY north of the Adirondacks:  regular well-water testing the well is an essential step there.) 

I hope this helps.  If I were in your position (and am only imagining possibilities without knowing anything about your location, sunlight and other factors:  I would consider adding blueberries, rhododendrons, and other plants that thrive in acidic soil....to reduce the amount of lawn that I needed to tend (or that my dear husband needs to mow... :-).  So many people love these plants and watch them wither and die because their soil is not acidic enough....but you seem to have perfect soil for these acid-loving plants. 

For the (remaining :-) lawn:  I'd add lime modestly away from your water well area....one modest application now and another in the fall.  Then I'd test the soil again next spring.

I hope this helps!

- Robilee