Problems sprouting seeds in my new greenhouse - Ask Extension
I'm having problems sprouting seeds to grow plant starts in our new greenhouse. I'm using a peat/coir/perlite mix on a heat mat in the high 70 degree ...
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Problems sprouting seeds in my new greenhouse #738406
Asked March 10, 2021, 1:54 PM EST
I'm having problems sprouting seeds to grow plant starts in our new greenhouse. I'm using a peat/coir/perlite mix on a heat mat in the high 70 degree range, but I'm not getting the kind of growth that would lead to the plant starts that resembled the ones I've purchased at my local garden center in years past. I'm covering the 1020 trays with a clear vented lid until I see germination and then removing it. I'm also using a full spectrum LED grow light 16 hours a day per mfg instructions. Also, I've noticed a surface 'green' tone to many of the trays.
So far I've gotten great germination of peppers, tomatos, Bok Choy, and leeks, but after a month or more the peppers are only 1-2 inches tall and the Tomatos are only 2 to 3 inches tall with just the first 'true' leaves present. I also started folar spraying a dilute (1 Tbls each in a gallon of water) Fish/Kelp mix to try to stimulate growth. Also, I only have about 10% germination rate on my eggplant seeds. Obviously I'm doing something wrong, but am at a loss for where to turn. So many questions, but surching on the web and youtube is really frustrating in that they provide really conflicting answers/approaches. My wife suggested I go to the experts and ask you. Any suggestions as to a breif start to finish scenario with a realistic expectation timeline? Any guidance you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much for your time.
Multnomah County Oregon
Expert Response
To begin, send me several images which show the seedlings and their size, also where they are currently being grown. You can only attach 3 images to each reply so, if needed, send several successive emails.
Then, too, add a few details about what you have done, and/or are doing:
- What is the prevailing temperature -- day and night -- where the seedlings are growing?
- What kind of lights are you using?
- Have you irrigated the seedlings with fertilizer-enriched water? Or have you applied granular fertilizer?
-- If yes, what are you using; the dose/amount; and the frequency?
I look forward to receiving your images and responses.
Then, too, add a few details about what you have done, and/or are doing:
- What is the prevailing temperature -- day and night -- where the seedlings are growing?
- What kind of lights are you using?
- Have you irrigated the seedlings with fertilizer-enriched water? Or have you applied granular fertilizer?
-- If yes, what are you using; the dose/amount; and the frequency?
I look forward to receiving your images and responses.
Dear Jean,
Thanks so much for your reply. As to your questions:
They are being grown in my greenhouse.
Average temperature 60 night to 72+ degrees days
Average Humidity 40 to 62 percent over 24 hour period
Seeds were planted in a seeding mix of Peat/Coir/Perlite
Trays are on heating mats that very from 72 to 81 degrees
Trays were covered with Humidity Covers until germination then removed
I am using a Sayhon SH2000 LED Grow Light at the mfg suggested distance of 24 inches and 16 hours of light per day.
Light specs are: Specification: Model: SH2000 LED Chip: Industry-Leading OSRAM Chips Avg. Power Draw: 208W ±3% Input: AC 100~277V HPS Replacement: 500W Spectrum: UV, IR, Blue, Red, 2700K Full Spectrum, 5000K Full Spectrum Vegetable Coverage:...
Plants are being watered/folar sprayed with a mix of 1Tbls Fish emulsion/ 1Tbls Liquid Kelp in one gallon of water daily
As to pictures:
1. 103252: Peppers in fore ground, Tomatoes in rear 2" pots
2. 103236: Shows corner bench in greenhouse with plant trays on heating mats. From Left: Eggplant, 4" pots only one germination so far with additional seeds of each variety in small cups with moistened paper towel to check germination; Peppers, 2" pots, Tomatoes 2" pots; Leeks 4" pots front right; Tomatoes 2" pots; Heat Pad controllers in the rear. By the way, Eggplant seeds were soaked for 24 hours in dilute Camomile Tea prior to planting in 4" pots. Seeds were placed on moist seeding mix and just covered with peat then moistened again.
3. Closeup of Leek and Tomato trays with example of Humidity cover on tray of Eggplant to it's right.
I will send additional pictures in next email.
Thanks again for your assistance. I'm really a novice in all this, so don't know what my expectations should be. I would really like to get to a place where I'm growing 'commercial quality' starts. I've only had/built the greenhouse since last fall. We have a beautiful Meyers Lemon (100+ set fruit) and Bearss Lime that got way to large to get through the doorway of our shed for their winter naps. I built it for them, but love the potential of extending our garden 12 months a year. Any help or guidance you are willing to provide would be fantastic. I look forward to your reply.
Have a Great Day!
Jean Paul Carufo
Hi Jean,
Here are a couple of more pictures to help describe our growing situation.
4. 103337: This is a tray of 4" pots of Eggplant that is still covered with the Humidity Cover. No germination noted yet and some green growth noted on the surface of the potting medium. Don't know why.
5. 103323: This is the same Eggplant tray with the vented covers I'm using still in place. The tray to the right is a mix of Basil and lettuce that seems to be germinating without an issue. Everything should be so easy. Please let me know if you have any questions or need additional pictures of something to help your diagnosis.
Again, thanks so much for your time and expertise. I really appreciate it and look forward to your reply.
Have a Great Day and Stay Safe.
Jean
Dear Jean,Thanks so much for your reply. As to your questions:They are being grown in my greenhouse.Average temperature 60 night to 72+ degrees daysAverage Humidity 40 to 62 percent over 24 hour periodSeeds were planted in a seeding mix of Peat/Coir/PerliteTrays are on heating mats that very from 72 to 81 degreesTrays were covered with Humidity Covers until germination then removedI am using a Sayhon SH2000 LED Grow Light at the mfg suggested distance of 24 inches and 16 hours of light per day.Light specs are: Specification: Model: SH2000 LED Chip: Industry-Leading OSRAM Chips Avg. Power Draw: 208W ±3% Input: AC 100~277V HPS Replacement: 500W Spectrum: UV, IR, Blue, Red, 2700K Full Spectrum, 5000K Full Spectrum Vegetable Coverage:...Plants are being watered/folar sprayed with a mix of 1Tbls Fish emulsion/ 1Tbls Liquid Kelp in one gallon of water dailyAs to pictures:1. 103252: Peppers in fore ground, Tomatoes in rear 2" pots2. 103236: Shows corner bench in greenhouse with plant trays on heating mats. From Left: Eggplant, 4" pots only one germination so far with additional seeds of each variety in small cups with moistened paper towel to check germination; Peppers, 2" pots, Tomatoes 2" pots; Leeks 4" pots front right; Tomatoes 2" pots; Heat Pad controllers in the rear. By the way, Eggplant seeds were soaked for 24 hours in dilute Camomile Tea prior to planting in 4" pots. Seeds were placed on moist seeding mix and just covered with peat then moistened again.3. Closeup of Leek and Tomato trays with example of Humidity cover on tray of Eggplant to it's right.I will send additional pictures in next email.Thanks again for your assistance. I'm really a novice in all this, so don't know what my expectations should be. I would really like to get to a place where I'm growing 'commercial quality' starts. I've only had/built the greenhouse since last fall. We have a beautiful Meyers Lemon (100+ set fruit) and Bearss Lime that got way to large to get through the doorway of our shed for their winter naps. I built it for them, but love the potential of extending our garden 12 months a year. Any help or guidance you are willing to provide would be fantastic. I look forward to your reply.Have a Great Day!Jean Paul Carufo
Thank you for the extensive, detailed update.
In general, the seedlings appear to have 2 main problems: The seedlings are pale and/or off-color, also leggy (spindly).
Among the multiple interacting factors and their remedies are these:
1. Frankly, the seedlings are starving. Start irrigating with fertilizer-enriched water. Begin with a soluble all-purpose vegetable fertilizer (one with N, P, and K) dissolved in water at half-strength. (Various brands are available, including organic.)
2. Stop foliar feeding; its best use is as a quick fix of a specific fertilizer deficiency.
3. If the seedlings are still on bottom heat, turn it off or remove it. The guideline is to remove bottom heat as soon as seeds sprout.
4. High daytime temperatures: Try to maintain a maximum of 70 to 72F. Vent the greenhouse and consider using a small fan to circulate the air.
5. The lighting manufacturer's suggested 24 inches (intensity 607 micromoles) above the plants is too far from vegetable seedlings for sturdy growth. (Full sunlight is 2000 micromoles.) Consider decreasing the distance to 18 inches, or even 12. (See the 2nd image in the left menu: Sayhon LED Grow Light.) Fortunately, tomatoes thrive when later transplanted up to the first set of true leaves.
As for the eggplant seeds that didn't germinate, the factors are again multiple, among them these:
- germination requires 5 to 9 days at optimum conditions;
- temperature of the root media too low; the target temp is 85F, with an optimum range of 75 to 90F;
- media was too wet or too dry.
I suspect the eggplant seeds died. This is a good reason for a science experiment: Sacrifice one or 2 pots and look. Then consider starting over. (If the seeds rotted, discard the potting mix outdoors then, wash the pots thoroughly before re-using them.)
You can download these free publications.
- Growing Your Own is about growing vegetables. It includes a chart for starting seeds and when to set them outdoors on page 7.
- Filled with facts including how to harden off the seedlings before planting outdoors (begins on page 12, lower right): Propagating Plants from Seed
If you truly want to grow 'commercial quality' starts, consider taking a Propagation class at one of the local community colleges after the pandemic quarantine ends. Both Clackamas Community College and Portland Community College have propagation classes that combine lecture and laboratory sections.
In general, the seedlings appear to have 2 main problems: The seedlings are pale and/or off-color, also leggy (spindly).
Among the multiple interacting factors and their remedies are these:
1. Frankly, the seedlings are starving. Start irrigating with fertilizer-enriched water. Begin with a soluble all-purpose vegetable fertilizer (one with N, P, and K) dissolved in water at half-strength. (Various brands are available, including organic.)
2. Stop foliar feeding; its best use is as a quick fix of a specific fertilizer deficiency.
3. If the seedlings are still on bottom heat, turn it off or remove it. The guideline is to remove bottom heat as soon as seeds sprout.
4. High daytime temperatures: Try to maintain a maximum of 70 to 72F. Vent the greenhouse and consider using a small fan to circulate the air.
5. The lighting manufacturer's suggested 24 inches (intensity 607 micromoles) above the plants is too far from vegetable seedlings for sturdy growth. (Full sunlight is 2000 micromoles.) Consider decreasing the distance to 18 inches, or even 12. (See the 2nd image in the left menu: Sayhon LED Grow Light.) Fortunately, tomatoes thrive when later transplanted up to the first set of true leaves.
As for the eggplant seeds that didn't germinate, the factors are again multiple, among them these:
- germination requires 5 to 9 days at optimum conditions;
- temperature of the root media too low; the target temp is 85F, with an optimum range of 75 to 90F;
- media was too wet or too dry.
I suspect the eggplant seeds died. This is a good reason for a science experiment: Sacrifice one or 2 pots and look. Then consider starting over. (If the seeds rotted, discard the potting mix outdoors then, wash the pots thoroughly before re-using them.)
You can download these free publications.
- Growing Your Own is about growing vegetables. It includes a chart for starting seeds and when to set them outdoors on page 7.
- Filled with facts including how to harden off the seedlings before planting outdoors (begins on page 12, lower right): Propagating Plants from Seed
If you truly want to grow 'commercial quality' starts, consider taking a Propagation class at one of the local community colleges after the pandemic quarantine ends. Both Clackamas Community College and Portland Community College have propagation classes that combine lecture and laboratory sections.
Hi Jean,
Wow! Thank you for your detailed reply. It's interesting that everything I've read about seeding mixes don't add any nutrients of any type. I questioned the reasoning, but had no experience either way. It's definitely not what I do in my garden. I make up and liberally use a COF, ala Steve Soloman in 'Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades' and 'The Intelligent Gardener' that has been around for years and has worked wonders in our garden. We have an active compost pile that produces a beautiful product that we add liberally and a 4' x 4' Vermiculture bed that really does well and is added as a top dress too. I've even gotten into making Compost Tea using the worm castings and trace minerals in a brewer that was designed at OSU. I've just never done seedlings. We've always used commercial starts.
I did just buy a tool to make planting cubes with a suggested mix of 1 part Compost, 1 part Peat or Coir, 1/2 part Vermiculite or Perlite, 1 cup Kelp Meal, 1/2 cup Azomite, 1/2 cup BioChar, and 1/2 cup COF. The block mix is pretty wet when made and the tool makes a little depression for seed placement. After placing seeds, the tray of blocks is then covered with a thin cover of perlite and then you wait for emergence. At least that mix would address 'starving and anemic starts'.
Do you have any experience with soil blocks as starting media? Reading about them and watching videos looked really interesting.
By the way, the way you addressed my 'Eggplant dilemma' made me smile. Especially the 'media was too wet or too dry'. I guess I have to dig out my old 'scientific method' brain cells and do an experiment both ways to see what works best. It's interesting that the 'test' seeds in the moist paper towel cups didn't sprout either. The varieties are from three different companies too. I just have to keep trying. So do I take the covers off and turn off the heating mats as soon as I get germination?
One other thing, my vent fan thermometer on switch and side vents in the greenhouse are set to 80 degrees. Is that too hot? Should I lower them to something else? At least my citrus and Fuschia baskets are happy campers. My Meyers Lemon has put on at least a half foot of growth over the winter and is starting to flower AGAIN! It's amazing to have as many lemons as we can possibly use available all year. We bought the Lime last year and a new Kumquat this year to keep it company. After 25 crazy nightshift years as an RN in the Emergency Department, this is a really nice way to spend some retirement time wrapping my head around the 'problems' I'm having and getting my hands dirty.
Thanks so much helping me along the journey. I will put all your suggestions to work immediately and will report on the outcome. Please don't hesitate to send along any other pearls you might think helpful.
Have a Great Day and Please Stay Safe!
Jean
| Virus-free. www.avast.com |
Jean Paul,
Let's deal with your ost recent questions & comments:
- Always remove seedlings from the heat mat as soon as the seeds germinate. This is easiest to do if only one kind of seed is in an individual container.
- Always begin fertilizing seedlings as soon as their cotyledons (seed leaves) are flat out. Begin with half strength soluble fertilizer, then increase to full strength with first true leaves.
Consider getting a professional soil test to determine your soil's status. It's possible some values are off the chart because you've regularly used Solomon's complete organic recipe, also added large amounts of compost. Contact A&L Lab to request a general test for a home garden PLUS recommendations. Also ask how they want you to sample and package the soil. A&L Test Lab.
Worm castings can substitute for other fertilizers. Both germination and growth is improved with 20% castings in the media. Excess causes growth problems. See Experiments with worm compost and About Worm Castings.
Compost tea hasn't proved itself to be as promising as originally thought. So, it's your choice to use it or not.
I haven't used the homemade planting cubes but have heard reports of success by gardeners. The formula has all the basics, including fertilizer. It's important to move the seedlings into larger pots as they grow. Don't allow them to become rootbound at any stage.
Let's deal with your ost recent questions & comments:
- Always remove seedlings from the heat mat as soon as the seeds germinate. This is easiest to do if only one kind of seed is in an individual container.
- Always begin fertilizing seedlings as soon as their cotyledons (seed leaves) are flat out. Begin with half strength soluble fertilizer, then increase to full strength with first true leaves.
Consider getting a professional soil test to determine your soil's status. It's possible some values are off the chart because you've regularly used Solomon's complete organic recipe, also added large amounts of compost. Contact A&L Lab to request a general test for a home garden PLUS recommendations. Also ask how they want you to sample and package the soil. A&L Test Lab.
Worm castings can substitute for other fertilizers. Both germination and growth is improved with 20% castings in the media. Excess causes growth problems. See Experiments with worm compost and About Worm Castings.
Compost tea hasn't proved itself to be as promising as originally thought. So, it's your choice to use it or not.
I haven't used the homemade planting cubes but have heard reports of success by gardeners. The formula has all the basics, including fertilizer. It's important to move the seedlings into larger pots as they grow. Don't allow them to become rootbound at any stage.
Caution: When using a new method or technique, experiment with only part of your plants, then compare the results against your previous practice.
I can only guess at what went wrong with the eggplant seed, especially because you used 3 different sources. If you haven't yet started a new batch, consider doing so. (Perhaps with a bit of castings in the media?)
Decrease the temperature in your greenhouse. Although 80F is fine for fuchsias and citrus, seedlings become leggy.
Another option to consider: Can you somehow divide the greenhouse in two, one part max 80F for fuchsias and citrus, the other max 70F for seedlings. (Actually, the fuchsias and citrus will be fine with max 70F during the winter.)
I encourage you to continue to use your scientific mind. Nursing trained you to be precise. Transfer those same skills in your garden.
Because of your background training, consider taking a few classes at the nearest community college.
Begin with 'Introduction to Horticulture' which provides a wide overview of numerous topics that will prove valuable in your garden and landscape. When that's in hand, register for two more: 'Propagation' and 'Soils.'
Hi Jean,
Once again an incredible and detailed response to my questions. Thank you. The resource materials are appreciated. I had A&L's website up and was reading about sample technique when I opened your email. It's been awhile since we did a soil test on the garden, so definitely would be a good thing to do. The garden has done really well though. It always produces more than we can use. Our back fence borders an elementary school and it's always nice to share our bounty with others as they walk by. That has really been fun. It's just the damn greenhouse. It took many tries and experiments with the garden to get it where it is, so I shouldn't expect anything else with the greenhouse. You've helped incredibly already, so I'm really grateful. I turned off the heat mat to everything that was already up, lowered the exhaust fan temp to 72, I added a little insect frass to some worm castings and added that to the pots and am watering them with a dilute mix of Kelp, Fish Emulsion, Molasses, and ecto Mycco and have seen a huge difference already. Both the peppers and tomatoes are greening up and the peppers are 1/3 again as big as they were. Also, now about 3/4 of the eggplant are germinated, so possibly I was just too impetuous. One of them sure doesn't look like an eggplant though. Not sure what found its way into that package :-). As to experimentation, I have plenty of time and space, so that part of it will be fun. I'm going to try the block mix both as blocks and in pots and think because there is actually some nutrition included, I think my result might be better. I guess I just don't understand the reasoning behind using just peat or coir and perlite/vermiculite as starting media. Hopefully the classes you suggested will help me there.
Again, thanks so much for your time and expertise. Working through frustration is always fun. Off to get my 6" deep soil samples together to send off.
Have a Great Day! Stay Safe.
Jean
Jean,
You wrote: "I just don't understand the reasoning behind using just peat or coir and perlite/vermiculite as starting media."
The reason is that they are sterile and, thus, seedlings are most likely to thrive. But the 'rest of the story' is that one must add appropriate fertilizer elements for the crop to survive and thrive beyond the germination stage.
Yes, it's possible to start seed directly in the garden where all sorts of things lurk. But other conditions -- especially temperature, moisture content, light, and drainage -- must be appropriate for the seed at hand.
For instance, if soil is too cold, germination will be delayed and the seeds will rot. Common examples are corn, cucumber, and basil seed -- all of which require nicely warm soil to germinate.
Then, too, if soil is too wet (soggy), the extra moisture facilitates fungal damping off organisms that attack the tender seedling tissues. Once those cells collapse, the seedling topples and dies.
You wrote: "I just don't understand the reasoning behind using just peat or coir and perlite/vermiculite as starting media."
The reason is that they are sterile and, thus, seedlings are most likely to thrive. But the 'rest of the story' is that one must add appropriate fertilizer elements for the crop to survive and thrive beyond the germination stage.
Yes, it's possible to start seed directly in the garden where all sorts of things lurk. But other conditions -- especially temperature, moisture content, light, and drainage -- must be appropriate for the seed at hand.
For instance, if soil is too cold, germination will be delayed and the seeds will rot. Common examples are corn, cucumber, and basil seed -- all of which require nicely warm soil to germinate.
Then, too, if soil is too wet (soggy), the extra moisture facilitates fungal damping off organisms that attack the tender seedling tissues. Once those cells collapse, the seedling topples and dies.
Hi Jean,
Thank you. That answers that question. If sterility is the issue though, why not just sterilize compost or other nutrients that might be of benefit seamlessly after the cotyledon nutrients are utilized? I would think that if there is any period of time where nutrients are lacking, it would have a longing effect on growth of the plant. It sure showed in my case. Immediately after introducing a dilute nutrient solution, sterility is compromised.Don't mind me. It's just my post Nursing life getting in the way.
Thanks so much for the quick reply.
Have a Great Night!
Jean
Jean,
I don't mind you, your comments, or questions at all. I'm pleased you're looking for answers. (I'm the same way, and I'm also retired medical. Once my sons were in school all day, I started classes at the local community college. I learned facts! Based on science, not folklore and misinformation!)
You need to get into a Intro to Hort class asap. You will have so many "aha" moments you won't believe it!
Yes, you can sterilize your soil. But home gardener methods often fail, in part, because of the difficulty of maintaining an appropriate temperature. Too low and the soil isn't sterile; too high and the soil releases elements that could be toxic to seedlings/plants.
As for fertilizing seedlings in 'sterile' media: By the time seeds germinate, the root media is no longer sterile. At that stage, media sterility is less critical than is fertilizer
In a greenhouse, cleanliness is more important than sterility. For instance, always keep the hose nozzle off the floor/ground. If the nozzle is on the floor, it can be contaminated by stuff your shoes/boots dragged in from outdoors. Then, when you irrigate, you could contaminate seedlings with potentially dangerous bacteria or fungi.
Enjoy your garden!
I don't mind you, your comments, or questions at all. I'm pleased you're looking for answers. (I'm the same way, and I'm also retired medical. Once my sons were in school all day, I started classes at the local community college. I learned facts! Based on science, not folklore and misinformation!)
You need to get into a Intro to Hort class asap. You will have so many "aha" moments you won't believe it!
Yes, you can sterilize your soil. But home gardener methods often fail, in part, because of the difficulty of maintaining an appropriate temperature. Too low and the soil isn't sterile; too high and the soil releases elements that could be toxic to seedlings/plants.
As for fertilizing seedlings in 'sterile' media: By the time seeds germinate, the root media is no longer sterile. At that stage, media sterility is less critical than is fertilizer
In a greenhouse, cleanliness is more important than sterility. For instance, always keep the hose nozzle off the floor/ground. If the nozzle is on the floor, it can be contaminated by stuff your shoes/boots dragged in from outdoors. Then, when you irrigate, you could contaminate seedlings with potentially dangerous bacteria or fungi.
Enjoy your garden!
Hi Jean,
Thanks again for the clarity on approach. It's interesting your focus on the needed cleanliness of the greenhouse. I have a really good friend that lives in Eugene that for the last 30+ years (he just retired last year) worked for a huge international Blueberry company. When I talked to him about my building of our greenhouse, his first and persistent comment was, 'Make sure you keep it organized and spotlessly clean'. I'm trying and hopefully will get there. I'm still struggling on where everything 'I think' that needs to be in there, should live. Hopefully I'll get there.
As to education, I will definitely look for a horticulture class. We just signed up as members of what was 'The Home Orchard Society' and have learned a ton there already. I have a 4 hour grafting class there on Tuesday and can't wait. There are basically two women that run the show there and their knowledge and experience is amazing. I feel blessed that they are so willing to share it, much like with you. It's mostly 'outside' stuff though. The Horticulture class would add the 'inside' aspect. We have three Community Colleges close by. Hopefully, I can find a class there somewhere. Thanks so much for your willingness to be a sounding board for my questions. It is really appreciated.
Have a Great Day! Stay Safe.
Jean
Sounds like you're on the way to success. Enjoy your garden!
Hi Jean,
Can I ask one more question please. I received my soil analysis from A & L today and in looking at the result, the only things they suggested I add to the two different sample areas in my garden were Potash and Sulfur. My question is what and how? Also, the amounts suggested to add per 1000 sq ft seem pretty high per my google searches. One reference I noticed more than once was to add Kelp Meal. I do use it in my COF, so have a 50# bag available. Also, since they also suggest adding Sulfur, would Langbeinite be a possibility? It would provide both Potassium and Sulfur and not impact the soil pH one way or the other. If you would be so kind as to suggest a product and how to calculate the appropriate amount I would be forever grateful. Who knows, this might speak to our good 'eventual' yield, but slow growth.
Once again, thanks for your time and expertise. I look forward to your reply.
I've attached the Graphical Soil Analysis Reports from A&L Labs for your review.
Stay Safe.
Have a Great Day!
Jean
| Virus-free. www.avast.com |
Jean,
Whenever sulfur (S) is recommended for soil, the reference is typically to agricultural sulfur. After the sulfur is added to the soil, soil microbes slowly convert it into the needed acid form.
Consider contacting the lab to have them clarify the recommendations. (The "Comments" on both reports appear to be generic rather than the information you need.) Large scale commercial growers are familiar with soil recommendations and products whereas home gardeners aren't. That why I suggested that you "request a general test for a home garden PLUS recommendations."
Normally, there's a modest fee added for the soil report when gardeners request recommendations of how much and which products to use. So, don't be surprised if an extra fee is added after the fact.
Whenever sulfur (S) is recommended for soil, the reference is typically to agricultural sulfur. After the sulfur is added to the soil, soil microbes slowly convert it into the needed acid form.
Consider contacting the lab to have them clarify the recommendations. (The "Comments" on both reports appear to be generic rather than the information you need.) Large scale commercial growers are familiar with soil recommendations and products whereas home gardeners aren't. That why I suggested that you "request a general test for a home garden PLUS recommendations."
Normally, there's a modest fee added for the soil report when gardeners request recommendations of how much and which products to use. So, don't be surprised if an extra fee is added after the fact.
Actually, I did just that. I requested a complete home soil test and paid additionally for their recommendations. They were very specific in that they felt to correct the deficiencies they noted during testing. For example on my first sample they stated I needed to add 4.5# of potash and 0.3# of Sulfur per 1000 sq ft of garden bed. Just so happens I have just about 1000 sq ft of garden bed. There are a number of products available to address a Potash deficiency. A list is easy to compile. Concentrates, in Milwaukie, Oregon (great company by the way) where I buy many of my soil amenities, lists at least six. My question to you was which one, in your opinion, was the best option of the products available? I'm sorry if I wasn't as specific as I could have been.
Thanks again for all your assistance.
Have a Great Day!
Jean
Consider taking your report to Concentrates to ask what is best for your garden. They've been a reliable source for gardeners for a number of years.
Enjoy your garden!
