Hello,   Thank you for your question.   You can train them to grow up instead of out, but it is harder to maintain the plant if we have a heavy freeze here in Delaware.

This fact sheet from Clemson Cooperative Extension explains the basics of pruning figs:http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/vegetables/tree_fruits_nuts/hgic1353.html
Training Pruning
Figs require little pruning—just enough to keep growth within bounds, to keep the crown open to sunlight and air, and to remove dead wood. Pruning should be done during the winter months, preferably after the coldest weather is past but before growth starts in the spring.

Most fig cultivars bear two crops a year: a light one in early summer borne on previous season’s wood and the second crop in mid- or late summer borne on current season’s wood.

Though fig plants can be trained to either a tree or a bush form, the tree form is not practical for the piedmont. In this region, fig plants are occasionally frozen back, making the tree form difficult to maintain.

Begin training to bush form at time of planting by cutting off one-third of the young plant. This forces shoots to grow from the base of the plant. Let these shoots grow through the first season. Then, during the late winter after the first growing season, select three to eight vigorous, widely spaced shoots to serve as leaders. Remove all other shoots.

Be sure the leaders are far enough apart to grow to 3 to 4 inches in diameter without crowding each other. If they are too close together, the leaders cannot grow thick enough to support themselves and their crop and tend to fall over or split off under stress of high winds. If this happens, remove the damaged leader and select a new one late the next winter by choosing one of the many suckers that arise annually.

Beginning the second year after planting, if more branching is desired, head back the bush each spring after danger of frost is past but before growth has started. Do this by removing about one-third to one-half the length of the annual growth.

Also, prune out all dead wood, and remove branches that interfere with growth of the leaders. Cut off low-growing lateral branches and all sucker growth that is not needed for replacement of broken leaders.

Do not leave bare, unproductive stubs when you prune. These stubs are entry points for wood decay organisms. Make all pruning cuts back to a bud or branch.

I hope this is helpful.

Kind regards,
Tracy