I have a lawn question. Every spring, I have nearly 250 dog spots in my Kentucky blue grass lawn. They are so efficiently killed that the grass form...
Knowledgebase
I have a lawn question. ... #215077
Asked October 01, 2014, 11:12 AM EDT
I have a lawn question. Every spring, I have nearly 250 dog spots in my Kentucky blue grass lawn. They are so efficiently killed that the grass forms an impenetrable barrier to the dirt and the only way to get growth back is to take a steak knife and cut out the dead grass and replant.
During the rest of the year, the dogs spots are very small if non-existent. The dog is a rescue, and I feel this is the reason she was given up. I can not get her to pee on a walk or on a leash. Training her to go on the rocks has failed after I crated her for more than 24 hours and brought her out to the rocks to pee. she held it for nearly 28 hours.!!!
I have tried lime and gypsum.
I am struggling to understand why this happens in the fall/winter/spring and wonder if the grass is ultra sensitive to the nitrogen when it is dormant. I am sure it is the dog, as we have an ice rink in the winter and there are no dog spots in this area.
Is there anything I can do this fall to minimize this issue. It is such a destructive process. Should I water extensively in the fall? Should I try the lime or gypsum in higher quantities?
Carver CountyMinnesota
Expert Response
When you are watering the lawn and or it is raining such as in the spring/summer, the nitrogen and salts from the dog's urine is getting diluted which may be why the problem is much less apparent during those times of the year. Gypsum, baking soda, lime, etc are salts and can actually compound the problem.
As you mentioned, getting the dog to go somewhere specific is the best way to handle this problem. It can take quite a bit of training to re-teach the dog where to go. As someone who has had to re-teach rescues about potty habits, it can take some time and work. It might be helpful to consult with a dog trainer - the Humane Society has trainers and experience with rescues, so that might be a place to start.
On to the grass that is already damaged - really irrigating those spots and washing out the nitrogen and salts is important. By doing this if the turf is still alive, it may recover. It also will better prepare the area for re-seeding. If the turf is totally dead, removed the turf and 1/2 to 1" of soil and then re-sod or re-seed. In a Kentucky bluegrass lawn: Spot seed with Kentucky bluegrass (marginally effective) or perennial ryegrass (more effective).
http://polk.uwex.edu/horticulture/seasonal-concepts/lawns-and-dogs-but-not-tomato-juice/