My lawn is approximately 40% zoysia. The zoysia is doing ok however crabgrass has inundated the non-zoysia areas. This spring I am intending to apply a pre-emergent just before green up and again 6 weeks later. Next May can I insert plugs directly into soil or must I first remove old crabgrass? Is there anything I can do this fall? Thanks
I have what I think is a 40-50-year-old Atlantic white cedar with twin trunks. Since last year the branches on one side have been browning and all are now brown. The other side seems unaffected. My question is: Should I remove the whole tree,or hope that the trunk that seems fine will fill out? It is about 40 ft. tall and may have been affected by our earthquake or by our trimming of many descending bottom branches about the same time....
Thank you--Cathy Wintermyer
I have a tall fescue lawn I cut it at the lowest setting on my lawn mower, i spend days removing all the thatch. I rent a machine and core aerated the lawn, then top dressed with a combination ot soil and soil nutrients, can not remember the exactly what it was, but I know it was the correct product for the reseeding and soil improvement.Then, I overseeded the lawn, with a very high quality mix of 3 types of tall l fescue , raked in, and used a starter fertilizer. it has been around 3 1/2 there weeks and there is excellent growth in some area and almost none in other. cane I apply a little more top soil and some additional seed at this time or is it to late, I thought about putting down more seed in the spring, however that is when I was going to try and kill of the weeds that I have.in the spring, which would prohibit me for overseeding or filling bare spots in the spring. I would appreciate you recommendation and how to proceed with the areas that are still bare I watered the lawn everyday day twice a day for the first week, and the in the morning everyday since. I plan to continue to water it daily in case they are some slow germination spots. My lawn was in better condition than almost anyone else in the area, except for the areas I accidentally killed while trying to get control of the weeds. My current lawn is only eight years old, when I bought the house the entire lawn was all weeds, like strawberry patch. I had it all killed and professional hydoseeded, I have read that with tall fescue, it is necessary to overseed at least ever two years? Thank you for any recomendations on how to work with the remaining bare spots and how to maintain the lawn in the future
What variety of peach trees do you recommend for the area of Talbot County?
Talbot County Maryland peaches over 6 years ago
My tomatoes are beating well but as soon as they begin to ripen, even when still mostly green, brown marmorated stink bugs descend upon them an ruin the fruit. What can I do?
We own a new home in Bethesda and are trying to establish a lawn. The soil is very clay. I was expecting 4-6 inches of topsoil to be put down, but we arrived home one day to find a thin layer of topsoil-- less than one inch-- which had been seeded and covered with straw. Some areas at the high part of the grade quickly thinned, and grass is essentially trying to grow in clay. We use a lawn service which practices grasscycling, but it is pale and thin. The lawn struggled this summer, and we expect to need to oversees. Should we treat with gypsum to break up the clay before working on the seeding? Should we fight to have more organic matter added and essentially start over with the lawn? I can't find a "best practice" for amount of topsoil/compost to be added to a very clay soil, typical of Bethesda. Thanks for any suggestions!
This year I planted an approx 170-foot row of Fordhook 242 bush lima beans adjacent to approx 300-feet of Kentucky Wonder bush green beans. The stalks on both had prolific growth and we harvested a large crop of green beans. The lima bean plants had lots of blossoms but no pods ever formed. At this date the plants are still in the garden. Is there any logical reason why they did produce pods?
Frederick County Maryland vegetables over 6 years ago
What pear, apple and cherry tree would you recommend where would you purchase i.e. magazine or local vendor. Trees resistant to local blights and grow well we like semi drawf. Both our pear and apple trees got heavey fireblight. We also want to start growing eatable cherries.
Charles County Maryland fruit over 6 years ago
In a termite infestation, is the queen in the above ground wood, or is the colony in the soil? Or does the age and extent of the infestation dictate where the queen and colony is centered?
Why are my orchid leaves turning yellow and drying up? What is my remedy? It is located in the bathtub where it gets sun daily from the south and west window.
I've seen a large black rat snake and 2 small ones near the house I live in in Maryland. Recently my cat meows and traces paths across the floor and waits at each corner before going forward. She will eat and drink for only a little while before looking around, meowing, and then walking away. She keeps lifting her paws and tail off the floor and jumping really fast out of the enclosed litter box. The floor below has a drop ceiling, and mice droppings gather there. Also, my rabbit darts out of his cage each night, avoids his favorite places, and hides like he's terrified. Do black snakes run around a house like this to catch mice?
I have found a plot of land to grow vegetables...How can i determine if this is a good spot to grow in or not? I know it needs sunlight but how do i gauge/determine if it is sufficient enough sunlight/soil, etc. to grow in THANKS
Good morning! For the 2nd summer in a row, something has been eating my crepe myrtle. Its been planted in our yard for 4 years now and the first 2 years, it was green, robust and healthy looking. It is still growing, it does look sickly. I have attached pics. What can I do? when should I do it? One neighbor told me I would need to dig all of the dirt up and put fresh around the tree. Help! I love my tree!
We have two 5-foot tall white dogwoods in front of our house, both set in a border bed of blue carpet juniper shrubs, both getting sun about 2/3 of the day. Late last summer, the small topmost branches of both dogwoods started to die, while the lower branches grew vigorously. The top dieback and bottom growth continued this summer, but recently became so severe that the trees seem ruined. Can you tell me the cause? If I replace them with new dogwoods, will the same problem occur? Do you recommend a different decorative tree?
Three diseased weeping cherry trees. Each has developed ugly black splotches near ground, as shown on the attached picture. Can anything be done?
I have a 6 year old Weeping Cherry, Prunus Subhirtella Pendula. The leaves on most branches are brown, some are still green. We pruned the bottom a few years ago as well as months ago and a lot of amber sap came out of the cuts. However, sap is coming out of the rest of the tree where we did not make any cuts. The picture shows where we have not cut. Is this tree dying or can it be saved? It has full sun and we have not applied pesticides or fertilizers. I am attaching a close-up picture. I will send a second e-mail with an attachment of the full tree.
Montgomery County Maryland over 6 years ago
Why are stink bugs on one house more than the other houses in a neighborhood?
How warm can temperatures be under a row cover (over cole crops, lettuces, beets, spinach, etc.) before it negatively affects them? Will high temps cause them to bolt?
I can't find what this insect is or how to stop it. The plant now looks like it has dirt all over it, like someone sprinkled soil. I already have an infestation on my cucumber plant. Will it bother the peppers and tomatoes too?
Calvert County Maryland over 6 years ago
I would like to have my soil tested. Can i drop the soil sample off at my local extension agency? And what is the cost?
St. Mary's County Maryland over 6 years ago
I have been maintaining a small (5'X20') vegetable garden for many years, and have decided to let it go fallow this coming growing season: my tomatoes and cucumbers continually get disease that I cannot control, and the squash bugs are thriving. I have 4 questions about this process. First, is one year of being fallow usually sufficient to give the ground a re-set? Second, do you recommend planting a cover crop/green mulch for the year and if so, what do you recommend? Third, is there any additional thing I should do to reduce any diseases that are living in the ground? And fourth, should a year of non-planting force the squash bugs to abandon the area? If not, any suggestions for ridding myself (or significantly reducing the population) of the bugs that must be residing in my dirt? Thanks. Deborah Lawrence
This past May, I planted five Anne Raspberry plants that were 3 years old. Only one of them survived. I received 4 more today from the grower. Instructions were not included. What do I do? Do I plant them as is? Do I give them fertilizer and if so, what and how much. Do I cut them back now?? Any help would be appreciated. My concern is that I am planting them in the Fall and not the Spring. I think most of the instructions that I get on line assume that I am planting them in the S;pring. Thanks in advance. Barbara
I have recently started working on a very neglected back yard garden. Everything is covered by wisteria. It is mainly the thick vine purple spring blooming type but also the white fall blooming weedy type. It is covering all the trees and bushes. Runners of vine are shooting across the yard and are tunneling under the dirt. Are there any easy ways of getting rid of it? It is on some very nice ornamental trees so I am afraid to use any type of herbicide can I safely us something like stump killer? I have even trying to manually remove it but it is too out of hand.
A large Chestnut Oak at the crest of the cliff by the water appears to have Slim Flux. It is at the lower 3-4 feet Of the trunk and runs down the hill a foot or two. It is thick and sticky? With a lot of ants, flies and insects crawling around. I can see a small hole about 4 inches wide and 8 inches long at the foot of the trunk by the side with the slim. The tree was here when we built the house in 1975. What is the danger of it going over. We had a tree expert come out and tell us which trees needed to be removed before we built. We are in a critical area. Can someone come out? It is about one to two feet from the top of my elevator to the water. It could do severe damage and we are gone for the entire winter. We had a major tree go out in Floyd and it took about 20 feet of the cliff with it. Bringing the house 20 feet closer to the edge. We need an expert not a tree doctor. We live five minutes down Riva Road from the Dept. of Agriculture just by the bridge.
Is this a wheel bug?