Pole bean problem.

Asked July 24, 2020, 10:00 PM EDT

My pole beans will not grow more than a foot high. I have never had this problem in the past. It started last year and i thpught it was a fluke. But this year the same. I have peas in the same row 6 foot tall, i did a control test in sterril comercial potting soil and sterril pot with the same results. Please see youtube video i uploaded showing leaf discolorlation etc. In both the row and the control test at the end. I am using comercial seed freshly bought this spring. The only plant to exceded 1 foot is the first one i planted where the peas stopped in the row. It is waist high but has the same discoloration and mini leaves. Dont know how being next to a pea plant helped it. P.s. the video is unlisted and it can only be seen by this link and not search for or seen with my other videos. https://youtu.be/AXfmoEpZnyc

Michigan

8 Responses

Hello,

I think you are right on in narrowing in on either nutritional deficiencies or a plant virus. I would take a look at your soil test and make sure the pH and levels of the macro-nutrients looks good. I would look at potassium in particular, as that can look somewhat like what you're seeing.

You might also think about the history of this piece of ground, is there something that happened that could impact plant growth? Maybe the area is compacted?

As for viruses, unfortunately there are many viruses (~20) that can get into beans. How these viruses are most likely to enter the plant varies by the species, and there aren't good diagnostic guides available. Generally, for plant viruses, I would look for off colors, circular patterns in the leaf, distorted new growth, and twisting in the plant. I would say the fact that you've seen this two years in a row supports that it is something other than a virus.

Depending on how into pole beans you are, you could try another variety of pole bean or send leaf tissue into a lab for a nutritional analysis (typically runs around $20, MSU does not offer this service currently). Testing for bean viruses is cost prohibitive, so I would suggest trying a different variety or seed source if this is where you end up in the thought process.

Did you watch the video i posted through to the end to see my control group?

The fact that when i use loose fluffy comercial steril potting soil that is suposed to be ph balenced and have all nutriance and a large new sterril tub and get the same results. Wouldnt that point to a virus in the seed? The last two years i have bought from a new cpmpany Baker Creek Seeds and territorial seeds and had a a problem both years. Preciously i bought from Southern Exposire Seed Exchange, Seed Savers Exchange, vermont Bean Seed Company. And had no problems. And no problems if i saved my own seed from these companies. (On one occasion dropped some seeds where i wasnt gardening and came back a month later to find the vines had smothered the ragweed weed and pigweed theire. About four years ago i bought seeds from Territorial and liked the beans so much better even though they were not as vigourus or prolific but so much tastier that i decided to go back to them for a second try and i have had nothing but problems these last two years..

I am of native American descent so raising pole beans is culturely significant to me and i am really into it. I have beans that grew as well as kudzu down south in the past so this is really puzzeling. I have i have around 35 years of gordening expierance and have a college degree in it. Whihj is why it is so puzzeling to me.

Is there any other reason I am overlooling that could be causing this? Chemical exposire from wind drift of neighbouring field 100 foot away? I would think that would effect a wider range of plants. The 60 foot of row cloosest to the neighbours field didnt grow the 30 foot farthest away did. But that is all peas but the only single bean plant farthest away grew but only waste high but still with tiny leaves. Discoloration etc.

Is there away to get virus out of seed by freezing?

Is the virus now in the ground? Or will getting clean seed solve the problem.

How do you treat the virus?










Did you watch the video i posted through to the end to see my control group?

The fact that when i use loose fluffy comercial steril potting soil that is suposed to be ph balenced and have all nutriance and a large new sterril tub and get the same results. Wouldnt that point to a virus in the seed? The last two years i have bought from a new cpmpany Baker Creek Seeds and territorial seeds and had a a problem both years. Preciously i bought from Southern Exposire Seed Exchange, Seed Savers Exchange, vermont Bean Seed Company. And had no problems. And no problems if i saved my own seed from these companies. (On one occasion dropped some seeds where i wasnt gardening and came back a month later to find the vines had smothered the ragweed weed and pigweed theire. About four years ago i bought seeds from Territorial and liked the beans so much better even though they were not as vigourus or prolific but so much tastier that i decided to go back to them for a second try and i have had nothing but problems these last two years..

I am of native American descent so raising pole beans is culturely significant to me and i am really into it. I have beans that grew as well as kudzu down south in the past so this is really puzzeling. I have i have around 35 years of gordening expierance and have a college degree in it. Whihj is why it is so puzzeling to me.

Is there any other reason I am overlooling that could be causing this? Chemical exposire from wind drift of neighbouring field 100 foot away? I would think that would effect a wider range of plants. The 60 foot of row cloosest to the neighbours field didnt grow the 30 foot farthest away did. But that is all peas but the only single bean plant farthest away grew but only waste high but still with tiny leaves. Discoloration etc.

Is there away to get virus out of seed by freezing?

Is the virus now in the ground? Or will getting clean seed solve the problem.

How do you treat the virus?










Sorry I double clicked the submit button acidently on my cell phone.










And in case i didnt mention it, i am self employed and been trying to do a market garden so yah this is a big deal and finacial loss to me.

Thank you for the additional information.

Sorry I misunderstood your check pot. I agree that the appearance of the plants in the check supports that this is not nutritional.

Herbicide injury and viruses can look very similar. If what you're seeing was the results of herbicide, I would expect more than the beans to show symptoms. Tomatoes are especially sensitive to herbicides, so if you have those nearby and they look fine, I would lean away from drift as an explanation.

As for the biology of viruses, how the virus enters the plant depends on the species of the virus. Most are transmitted by aphids, some are seed-borne. Again, depending on the species, they survive in the seed, or in weeds and other plants in the natural environment.

There isn't a cure/treatment for viruses. If you want pole beans this year, I would start from scratch with fresh seed from a different seed source and variety you've had luck with. I would try to get rid of weeds (in case they are acting as a reservoir for the virus) and monitor for aphid feeding.

Going into next year, I would make sure to get rid of potentially infected plant material in a way where it ends up off the farm (thrown away, etc.). I would go back to growing primarily a variety you've had success with in the past and try new varieties on a small scale. I would not save seeds.

As this is a persistent problem, you could always consider sending some plant samples into the diagnostic lab on campus. Their website, https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/, as full information on how to send and cost.


Thanks so much for the info. Uch apreceated

Meant much appreciated my phpne keyboard messed that up