The leaves are affected by some sort of fungi, perhaps apple scab, and is prevented with fungicide sprays in early spring while weather is wet.
The second photo is a rotting branch stub. When the branch was pruned it was left with too long a stub. This allows rot to enter the tree. Correctly pruning branches is important to prevent this- correctly pruning back to the slight swelling near the trunk, an area called the branch collar, allows the tree to enclose the wound and seal it off. Take a clean sharp saw and prune this stub back to the branch collar without cutting i to the collar itself- see the section”Pruning large branches” here-
If the tree has any other broken branches or long stubs, follow the same procedure.
The overall wilting is a concern. If you took the photo when temperatures were high- near 90 degrees or so, this could be why the tree is wilting. Does this wilting go away in cooler temperatures? If so, then just keep the tree roots moist, but not soaking. If the wilting doesn’t go away then this is usually a root zone issue. Damage at the base of the trunk, rot, flooding, drought, compacted soils are some causes.
If the wilting is constant, a certified arborist visit is needed to examine the whole tree. These professionals have taken training in care, diseases, pests and passed certification tests. He/she will come on site and give a complete diagnosis and a plant care plan if the problem can be managed. Find certified arborists by zip code here—- www.treesaregood.org
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