Lawn Disease Help

Asked March 4, 2019, 8:25 PM EST

Hi - I have been maintaining my yard applying Scotts step program for the past 13 years. For the past 2 summers I have been fighting this issue whenever it gets hot. Never had this issue before, even during the summer drought. I have included pics when my yard was healthy and what I have been dealing with the past 2 summers. I have been applying Scotts disease control every couple of weeks, but no luck. What can be done to address this issue. Thanks,

Prince George's County Maryland lawns and turf lawn disease disease issue abiotic issues dead grass in huge patch

8 Responses

It appears that almost all of the dead grass is in a low area of the lawn. Considering the abnormally high rainfall the past two years, it's possible that the turf in this area has drowned.

You don't mention whether the roots survive and it greens up again in spring, or it is totally dead. We need to know that for a better diagnosis.

If this is not a low area, and the grass is dead, it may be a species of fungus.We do see some scattered areas of dead turf, which are more suggestive of a fungal issue.

We need to see close-ups of infected blades to diagnose the fungus. When spring growth starts, send us photos as soon as you can.

Do not continue the fungicide applications, as they are ineffective.

ECN

Here are the latest photos. Up until we got high heat on Yesterday (5/20/19), my lawn didn’t show any signs of the thisnpronlem.

In the photo on the left this looks like it may be annual bluegrass and seedheads. This will yellow and dieback. We notice that the leaf blades of the grass are shredded/torn so you may want to think about sharpening your mower blades.
We also notice that the leaf blades/seedheads of the grass look bleached/white and we cannot say why. In general your lawn looks pretty nice. Have you used any herbicides on your turf this past fall or spring? Please let us know so we can offer more information.

Marian

Hi...the only products that have been applied to my lawn has been the Scotts Turfbuilder products, lime, Scotts Disease/Fungus and Scotts Grubex.

As for my blades, the repair shop indicated it was done a couple of weeks ago. May have to show me them the photos as well.

I added some photos that show my connecting neighbor yard has been doing the same as my for the past fe seasons as well


Hi...the only products that have been applied to my lawn has been the Scotts Turfbuilder products, lime, Scotts Disease/Fungus and Scotts Grubex.

As for my blades, the repair shop indicated it was done a couple of weeks ago. May have to show me them the photos as well.

I added some photos that show my connecting neighbor yard has been doing the same as my for the past fe seasons as well


We wondered about pre-emergent herbicide use because products containing Tenacity can cause a bleached appearance. However, your next set of photos shows yellowing and not whitening. We think this is an area of annual bluegrass that is dying back. The photo you submitted the other day (with the bleached appearance) shows the flowers of annual bluegrass. These grasses die out at this time of year. Annual bluegrass may have been in your seed mix and it spreads by seeds, gradually enlarging in an area over time if it's not managed.
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/annual-bluegrass

Christa

If the issue is the bluegrass, how do I either correct or manage the issue?

1. In the first photo we see annual bluegrass, not regular bluegrass that is a good addition to fescue lawns. Please read this link for how to manage annual bluegrass. (It's also known by its botanical name, poa annua.) https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/annual-bluegrass

2. Unless you see extensive grubs (about 12 per square foot), you do not need to apply any grub control product ever.

3. Unless you see fungal problems, also don't need fungicides.

4. Do not fertilize in early spring. It encourage tender growth susceptible to fungal infections. If you must fertilize,do so half strength in May.

5.Best time to fertilize is fall. It should be enough for the year. See our website fertilier schedule.

6. Photos 2 & 3 do not show annual bluegrass. So, something else is the problem. Send photos of yellowing grass (not dead, not healthy, but infected) as soon as it happens. Close-ups needed in focus. Individual blades clearly seen would be good.

7.Does the same spot die in the summer and then green up again the next spring by itself?
Ellen