lawn food

Asked February 17, 2018, 1:54 PM EST

What is the best product to buy,that will put the vitamins and minerals back in my lawn like iron, calcium , zink , sulfur , boron. the reason is I have moss growing all thru my lawn and what I have found is lime may not be the answer.

Chesterfield County Virginia

7 Responses

I get this question a lot. Moss is there because it has an advantage. A few questions first:
Where did the moss start? Under a tree? In the shade?
Have you had a soil test of the lawn area? If not, I suggest you do.
Which do you like better, trees or turf?
Get back with me on these and we'll figure this out.

The moss started at the edge of the lawn . This past fall I dethatched the lawn . Then over the winter the moss has taken over the yard. Today I stoped by southern states and they tole me to put down.Cal-Turf pro. 10000 sq feet bag

Azomite 6000 sq feet bag I got that from them and put it down today. No I have not had my soil tested . I do agree that is probably where I should have started.

Without a soil sample, I would not put down the calcium or any nutrients. I've seen it happen too many times. You put too much on, pH goes up, then you try to correct, and you get going in this back and forth, up and down thing that is not good. Please get a soil test. Then put down nutrients as recommended.

After that, take a look at any trees and see if you can open up the canopy to allow more light to penetrate. No grass does well in the shade. Fescue does about as well as any and even it's not that good.

Personally, I like moss. It's a thing I try to stress to homeowners with this same problem. You don't have to mow moss which to me is a good thing. But I understand if you want it gone. Shade and moisture are the number 1 and 2 factors with moss. More light penetrating the ground will dry up moist areas faster and will help fescue have a fighting chance.

Hope this is somewhat helpful.

Ok I just got the results back from my lawn dirt test . It tells me I am good on ph I am low if not depleted on nitrogen,Phosphorus and Potassium.
now we know and we have a direction to head off to. What would you suggest.

Send me a picture of your soil test results. We always have to add nitrogen (usually in the fall to cool-season turf grasses) and really shouldn't be measured. But the other 2 we can definitely add to get those levels up to where they need to be.

I got a test kit and did it myself and I have told you the results

On cool-season turf (like fescue or bluegrass) we don't add nitrogen til the fall (Sept - Dec). However, you can add the other 2 (P & K) at any time.

Not knowing how deficient you are, I'd suggest adding P and K at a rate of 2-4# per 1000 sq ft. However, it depends on the products you buy as to the exact rate of that fertilizer you apply. For example, muriate of potash is a 0-0-60 product (it contains 60% K) but potassium carbonate is 0-0-48. You'd apply different amounts of those 2 different fertilizers to get 2-4# of K per 1000 sq ft.

Muriate of potash is pretty common (0-0-60). If you get this product, apply it at 3.3 to 6.6# per 1000 sq ft. If you use a different product, let me know and I can calculate the rate for you.

On the P side, you will probably have to go see what products containing mostly P are available to you. Let me know what product you can find and I can calculate the rate to apply.