Blueberry nutrion disorders?

Asked July 14, 2016, 11:25 AM EDT

Good day! My blueberries turn purple. They have really poor grow in that season.
Varieties- bluecrop and toro

And how i can acidifiing soil via irigation water? (we have drip irrigating system)
Our water is alcaline (7.2 ph) so Im scared that soil can get olso alcaline reaction!
So how i can make my water acid? What can i use and in which proportion? (We have injector and pump which supplies 6-8 m3 of water each hour)

We are Ukranian blueberry growers. For more directly information about our location please enter link
https://www.google.com.ua/maps/place/%D0%9B%D1%83%D0%B3%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%BE%D0%B5,+%D0%A5%D0%BC%D0%B5%D0%BB%D1%8C%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%86%D0%BA%D0%B0%D1%8F+%D0%BE%D0%B1%D0%BB%D0%B0%D1%81%D1%82%D1%8C,+32124/@49.3304583,27.077801,14z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x47320e9b6dc19db5:0x6cc867b1cfe5e544!8m2!3d49.3334974!4d27.10252

Outside United States

1 Response

Hi,


I see that your question was asked twice and that Mr. Lovett has already provided you with some information.


I agree that the red color suggests phosphorus deficiency. While low temperatures can sometimes cause phosphorus deficiency in blueberries during the fall or spring (http://www.fruit.cornell.edu/berrytool/blueberry/leaves/BBphos.htm), high pH is one possible contributor to low phosphorus in the plant. I agree with Mr. Lovett that it would be good to get a soil test for pH and nutrient levels. A leaf tissue analysis might be more useful later, after any major deficiencies or pH problems are corrected, as the level of one nutrient can affect the tissue levels of others, and the deficiencies observed in the tissues when the pH is out or range or the levels of other nutrients are much too high or too low may not actually reflect what needs to be added to the soil.


If you don’t have ready access to a soil testing lab but do have access to deionized water, you could try testing the pH of soil yourself by adding 10 ml of deionized water to 10 g of soil, mixing it and letting it sit for two hours, and then reading the pH of the water (http://www.lsuagcenter.com/portals/our_offices/departments/spess/servicelabs/soil_testing_lab/procedures/procedures-used-at-the-laboratory).


Applying sulfur, as Mr. Lovett mentioned, can be a good option for lowering the pH of soil. Here are some guidelines about how much to apply, based on what you find the pH of your soil to be and a target pH of around 4.5:

http://www.fruit.cornell.edu/berry/production/soilnutrientmgmt/pdfs/Chapter3.pdf (pp. 26 – 28)

http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/other/soils/hgic1650.html


You can find some information about how to adjust the pH of irrigation water here, in the “Acidification to Remove Mineral Deposits” section: http://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.cfm?number=B1130