reply to question 135492. thank you very much. here are some more pictures. i...

Asked June 20, 2013, 8:20 PM EDT

reply to question 135492. thank you very much. here are some more pictures. i pulled out one of the plant grasses or weeds that seem to be invading my new lawn and took some pictures.grass was planted in may with tall fescue with 5% kentucky blurgrass with a starter fertilizer that contained crab grass prevention. the seed was covered with straw.grass started to come in beautiful until this stuff started popping up all over. as you can see in the later pictures , the leaf blade looks to be about 10 times larger than the rest of the grass.i pulled out one of the plants and took more pictures.it seems to have more lateral growth than vertical growth. could this be some annual bluegrass or maybe there was seeds in the straw that i put down?hopefully you can make an identification with the latest pictures. i planted rebels all tall fescue type seed with 5 percent straight 100% kentucky bluegrass mixed with the tall fescue.i really took a lot of prep beforehand and the grass looked really good till this stuff showed up.even tho this area is only about 23 x 24 feet,i would hate to kill it off and start over unless that is the only recommended way. i have the ortho concentrate weed and grass killer that says i can spray the grass ,wait 3 days , scalp the grass and rake it all up. then i can put another layer of topsoil, and reseed again. if i have to do this, could you ladies and gentlemen recommend the top turf type grass seed to purchase? i saw the barenbrug bravado turf type tall fescue at home depot.then i came across a dwarf type tall fescue from southern states. then i found a double dwarf turf type tall fescue called scorpion 2. i am interested in the dwarf types of tall fescue because of its slow vertical growth habit and less fertilizer and less mowing. have you performed a turf test on these dwarf and double dwarf type tall fescue grasses? i have to mow the grass 3 times a week. the grass grows crazy fast here.thats why my question on the dwarf types. i keep my mower set at 3 inches. if i mow on a sunday afternoon,then by tuesday evening its ready to be cut again or wednesday afternoon. now i have another 1700 sq ft of lawn besides this and if the dwarf types will let me mow only once per week then i will replant with that seed. the grass area gets full sunlight and all fertilizers are put down only in the fall. if your recommendation is to do a complete renovation, then i would do so with 3 or 4 inches of new topsoil, seed starter fert., new seed and seed blankets.thanks so much for taking the time to help me. hope the extra pictures help and by the way, im only interested in planting 100% turf type or the dwarf types turf tall fescues. no kentucky bluegrass or ryegrass. could you also tell me what turf type tall fescues came out on top of the national turf evaluation program that is best suited for cecil county.

Cecil County Maryland lawns and turf crabgrass weed in lawn

1 Response

Please refer to the following publication. You will find a list of recommended turf type tall fescue varieties. These varieties have been tested at our Beltsville Turf Research Facility and at Virginia Tech in Blacksburg, Va., and have proven themselves as to longevity, disease resistance, color, texture, etc. over several years before making the list. Although the list mentions 'sod', the same list is appropriate for seeds and many of the recommended cultivars are available at farm stores, garden centers, nurseries, and well-stocked hardware stores. It is not necessary to add 5% Kentucky blue grass to your lawn seed, but doing so may improve the thickness of your lawn. It is especially important for sod farms to add Kentucky Bluegrass to Tall Fescue Sod since Tall Fescue is a clumping grass and would fall apart when cut and lifted.
The weed shown in your photo is probably crabgrass. If you wish to attack it now, you should use a post-emergent herbicide that is labeled for crabgrass control. Given the lushness of your lawn, the roots of the crabgrass may be very close to the surface which would allow you to simply pull it out by hand. It would also be appropriate for you to apply a pre-emergent crabgrass preventer next spring. As you may already know, the proper timing is to make the first application when the Forsythia blooms begin to fall from the shrubs, and a second application 6 weeks later.
LS