Killing weeds - Ask Extension
My entire backyard is covered with different types of weeds and I’d like to know how to get rid of them. I have attached some pictures but have more...
Knowledgebase
Killing weeds #881012
Asked August 11, 2024, 12:15 PM EDT
My entire backyard is covered with different types of weeds and I’d like to know how to get rid of them. I have attached some pictures but have more than the 3 allowed. Can I send additional pics?
Anne Arundel County Maryland
Expert Response
The first photo (image 1255) appears to show Mulberry suckers or seedlings (likely the former, given how dense they are and the fact that seedlings would probably have been killed if mown soon after germination). Was a White Mulberry tree taken down in recent months/years? The energy stored in roots from mature trees can be enough to support regrowth from suckers (sprouts arising directly from the root system) for years after the tree was cut down in some cases. Mowing them, unlike with seedlings who have a very limited root system, usually just causes them to keep regrowing.
Suckers (and seedlings) can be killed with careful application of a systemic herbicide, which is absorbed into foliage and moved into roots, where it kills them. Given how extensive of a root system may remain from a removed tree, suckers treated with herbicide might grow back a few times before finally succumbing, so be prepared to need a few repeat applications. Use product label information regarding how long to wait between applications, and if no waiting period is given, then just treat again as needed once new growth appears. Most such herbicides will be non-selective, which means they can kill broadleaf plants (like these weeds) along with grasses (the lawn), so apply with caution if you use one of those products. Some chemicals are selective for broadleaf weeds in turf, but might not work as well on tenacious weeds like Mulberry suckers.
The plants in the second photo (image 1254) look like Virginia Creeper (foreground and center of the image), a native vine, and Ivyleaf Morning Glory (lighter green foliage), which is considered a weed. Although beneficial for wildlife, Virginia Creeper can spread to cover a large area (many hardy vines do), so if kept, would best be relocated to either a natural area at the edge of a property (where it can ramble up a tree trunk harmlessly) or to a fence or other sturdy structure that can support a clinging vine. It will lose leaves in autumn, but often turns brilliant red first (if it receives enough direct sun). Virginia Creeper is a hardy perennial vine, so if you wish to remove it, either dig it out or treat with an herbicide labeled for vines or perennial weeds. Ivyleaf Morning Glory is an annual and should be fairly easy to pull or dig up, but will die this winter regardless (though seeds might remain in the soil that could germinate next year). Images for comparison, plus more information, can be found on the linked pages above.
The third photo (image 1253) shows more of the Ivyleaf Morning Glory plus what appears to be a Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans) by the fence. Trumpet Vine is native and attractive to hummingbirds when it blooms (and it has a long flowering season), but it's a very large-growing vine and takes up a lot of space, needs a sturdy structure for support (it clings rather than twining), and can sucker when thriving. If you wish to remove it, it might take repeated attempts at herbicide treatment if it's an established plant. Otherwise, it would need to be dug out if you wish to avoid herbicide use.
You are welcome to send more photos if additional plants need identification. You can attach them to your replies or paste them directly into the body of your reply message.
Miri
Suckers (and seedlings) can be killed with careful application of a systemic herbicide, which is absorbed into foliage and moved into roots, where it kills them. Given how extensive of a root system may remain from a removed tree, suckers treated with herbicide might grow back a few times before finally succumbing, so be prepared to need a few repeat applications. Use product label information regarding how long to wait between applications, and if no waiting period is given, then just treat again as needed once new growth appears. Most such herbicides will be non-selective, which means they can kill broadleaf plants (like these weeds) along with grasses (the lawn), so apply with caution if you use one of those products. Some chemicals are selective for broadleaf weeds in turf, but might not work as well on tenacious weeds like Mulberry suckers.
The plants in the second photo (image 1254) look like Virginia Creeper (foreground and center of the image), a native vine, and Ivyleaf Morning Glory (lighter green foliage), which is considered a weed. Although beneficial for wildlife, Virginia Creeper can spread to cover a large area (many hardy vines do), so if kept, would best be relocated to either a natural area at the edge of a property (where it can ramble up a tree trunk harmlessly) or to a fence or other sturdy structure that can support a clinging vine. It will lose leaves in autumn, but often turns brilliant red first (if it receives enough direct sun). Virginia Creeper is a hardy perennial vine, so if you wish to remove it, either dig it out or treat with an herbicide labeled for vines or perennial weeds. Ivyleaf Morning Glory is an annual and should be fairly easy to pull or dig up, but will die this winter regardless (though seeds might remain in the soil that could germinate next year). Images for comparison, plus more information, can be found on the linked pages above.
The third photo (image 1253) shows more of the Ivyleaf Morning Glory plus what appears to be a Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans) by the fence. Trumpet Vine is native and attractive to hummingbirds when it blooms (and it has a long flowering season), but it's a very large-growing vine and takes up a lot of space, needs a sturdy structure for support (it clings rather than twining), and can sucker when thriving. If you wish to remove it, it might take repeated attempts at herbicide treatment if it's an established plant. Otherwise, it would need to be dug out if you wish to avoid herbicide use.
You are welcome to send more photos if additional plants need identification. You can attach them to your replies or paste them directly into the body of your reply message.
Miri
Can you recommend a herbicide that will kill all of these without killing my grass? I have included other pictures as well. I have lived here for 21 years and don’t remember any trees being taken down. There are 2 events that happened recently that could have contributed to this sudden growth in the yard, my neighbor started removing a lot of “bushes “ along the fence and the lack of rain has killed my grass in the yard. 


On Monday, August 12, 2024, 10:40 AM, Ask Extension wrote:
The neighbor's removed plants might have included young (or frequently cut-back) Mulberries, which would explain the suckering. It is possible they are seedlings instead of suckers, especially if there is a mature tree nearby whose fruits attract lots of birds and other wildlife that is then dispersing the seed around. Mulberry seedlings can also be surprisingly hard to pull up for their size, though repeating mowing each time they regrow should kill them faster than it would for sucker growth.
There is no single herbicide to recommend, and we don't keep track of brand offerings; any product labeled for use on home lawns that targets broadleaf weeds may work, though some products focus on vines and "brush" (woody plants like trees and shrubs) more so than, say, dandelions and other non-woody weeds. One example is the active ingredient triclopyr, which will be absorbed by broadleaf plants and kill roots, but generally not harm grasses. (As always, read the label to be certain, and always use as directed. Be aware that some herbicides mix more than one chemical in the product to control a greater number of weeds, so examine labels closely, and use the product very carefully around any desirable plants near the treatment area, including trees whose roots infiltrate the application zone.)
For lawns needing repair, autumn (September, primarily) is an excellent time to improve lawn density and vigor, like core-aerating, overseeding, and fertilizing or liming as needed.
Miri
There is no single herbicide to recommend, and we don't keep track of brand offerings; any product labeled for use on home lawns that targets broadleaf weeds may work, though some products focus on vines and "brush" (woody plants like trees and shrubs) more so than, say, dandelions and other non-woody weeds. One example is the active ingredient triclopyr, which will be absorbed by broadleaf plants and kill roots, but generally not harm grasses. (As always, read the label to be certain, and always use as directed. Be aware that some herbicides mix more than one chemical in the product to control a greater number of weeds, so examine labels closely, and use the product very carefully around any desirable plants near the treatment area, including trees whose roots infiltrate the application zone.)
For lawns needing repair, autumn (September, primarily) is an excellent time to improve lawn density and vigor, like core-aerating, overseeding, and fertilizing or liming as needed.
Miri