Thanks for your question.

In order for me to provide you with accurate information, I would like to see a copy of the soil report.  Could you please provide us with a picture of it?

Many thanks.

Thanks much for the report.  Will look it over and get back to you with a detailed analysis.  For the interim, there really is nothing to be concerned about regarding the potassium levels.  Details to follow.

Thanks again for the report and thanks for consulting with us.

Thanks again for the soil test.

Upon looking over what you sent, it is not completely clear to me what you are asking. Potassium level is one thing, but is there something else?

On the soil report there is some writing. Perhaps it’s yours? Directions for your front yard about letting it grow longer and sharpening the mower blades are spot on. Whatever you think may be wrong with your yard, aeration is not necessary. You have a very healthy organic matter (OM) content of 11.4%. To achieve this high level, my guess is that you leave your grass cuttings on the yard and/or mulch your fall leaves. Whatever. Both are very sound practices. Continue them. With this high OM level, aeration is not necessary.

I am slightly puzzled by the writing of adding gypsum. Chemically it is calcium sulfate. It has nothing to do with potassium. It is often used to break up clay-compacted soils and to provide calcium to your yard. Because of the high level of organic material (11.4%) in your yard, I don’t see any need for gypsum. I would suggest that you disregard the comments about gypsum. See:

https://www.masterclass.com/articles/gypsum-applications-explained

https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-use-gypsum-in-gardening-5079656

As to your potassium level, the soil report suggested 4 pounds potassium per 1,000 square feet. Potassium is usually added as potash. If you look in gardening centers, you will typically find potash labeled “Muriate of Potash”, 0-0-60. If you closely look at the product label, you should see that it is potassium carbonate (KCO₃). Consistent with the product label, one pound of the product contains 0.6 pounds (60%) of potassium. It comes as a powder. See:

https://www.cropnutrition.com/resource-library/what-is-potash/

The recommendation for potassium was 4 pounds per 1,000 square feet. So measure your yard and determine its total square footage. Suppose it turns out to be 1,250 square feet. If so, you will need to add (4)x(1.250) = 5 pounds of potassium to it. In every pound of muriate of potash there is 0.6 pounds of potassium. So for a yard that is 1,250 square feet, you would apply slightly over 8 pounds of potash. I got this number by dividing 5 by 0.6

But in a broader content, the soil in your yard is quite acceptable even with a low potassium level. I really don’t see any major issue. So my question to you is why would you want to do anything? What do you currently find troublesome about your turf?”

Thanks for your question. If you feel that there is some follow-up that needs to be addressed, we will attempt to assist you. If you elect to do nothing about the potassium levels, no harm would be incurred. Good luck

Thanks for getting back to us.

It seems that you are pretty much on top of things but want some areas (front yard) to be better). At this time of the year, most turf enters a period dormancy and may even turn a bit brown. It is a “resting period”. While I’m sure that the good folks at the Farm Service had only the best intentions, now during the hot part of the summer is not the best time to apply fertilizer. It could lead to burning of your turf. Look at the following turf calendar and schedule which has been developed by the University of Minnesota for best practices. Note the warning about fertilizing a lawn during hot summer months:

https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar

https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/hot-weather-fertilizer-tips-your-yard-and-garden

I will again raise the question of why you are adding gypsum to your yard? Rarely is sulfur deficiency a cause of turf problems. If given in high enough amounts and over a long period, sulfur can lower the pH of the sulfur. However the pH of your soil is within an acceptable range for growing grass. See:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/using-gypsum-in-garden.htm - :~:text=In short, you can benefit,left for industrial agricultural use.

https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/gypsum.pdf

With respect to watering your yard, the following are what we consider to be “best practices”:

https://www.lakevillemn.gov/277/Lawn-Watering-Facts-Tips - :~:text=It's best to water established,nos shorter than two inches.

https://extension.umn.edu/how/water-wisely-start-your-own-backyard

Finally for the spots in your front yard that may need some improvement, consider doing overseeding for them during the latter part of August to early September. See:

https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/seeding-and-sodding-home-lawns

Thanks again for using our services. Please get back with any additional questions.

Thanks again for your response.  Getting a soil analysis done next spring would be a great idea.  If not before then, I'll look forward to working with you at that time.  Thanks for using our forum.