Lawn help - Ask Extension
We started a new yard 2 years ago with seed. Right after it was done we had a pop up storm that washed away the little amount of top soil that was put...
Knowledgebase
Lawn help #879559
Asked July 31, 2024, 10:54 AM EDT
We started a new yard 2 years ago with seed. Right after it was done we had a pop up storm that washed away the little amount of top soil that was put done. Since then in bare areas we put down top soil and seed, fertilizer and straw. We have not had much luck with that. Did an overseed last year. This year did aeration and overseed. Still quite bare in areas. We have clay soil. We were told by sprinkler guy to water 30 min each zone. I thought that was too much so backed off to 15. Seen browning so used to 20 min a zone and have it doing a cycle and soak so each zone goes for 5 min then repeats until hits 20 min. So my first question how can I figure out proper time. Also this morning I noticed white stuff all over lawn? Could it be sod web worm or something else? Attaching photos
Oakland County Michigan
Expert Response
I'd recommend a soil test to start. You will learn about your soil including soil type, pH, nutrient levels and more. Knowing the type and fertility of your soil is the starting point to establishing & maintaining a strong turf that can resist diseases, moss, weeds, insects/grubs and look great at an optimal cost. More info here: Don't Guess-Soil Test-MSU and MSU Home Soil Test-self mailer Your soil test results will give you fertilizer concentration, amount & timing recommendations.
Check out the following articles on lawn overseeding:
Renovating A Lawn for Quality & sustainability-UMN
How to Overseed A Lawn-Iowa
Lawn Renovation & Over-seeding-UMass
You should only need about 1"/week, including rainfall, unless your soil is sandy. Irrigation should be done by 3PM to allow the grass to dry before evening reducing the possibility of disease conditions. Soil compaction might be a cause of bare spots. More info on how to determine the amount of water being applied & soil compaction here:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/how_much_water_does_your_lawn_irrigation_system_apply
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/lawn-irrigation-tips
Smart Watering for Lawns-MSU
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1313/ - soil compaction
https://extension.umn.edu/soil-management-and-health/soil-compaction#iron-deficiency-chlorosis-%28idc%29-1147265 - good info on soil compaction
https://turf.cals.cornell.edu/lawn/lawn-care-the-easiest-steps-to-an-attractive-environmental-asset/advanced-care/soil-compaction/ - lots of info here!
I suspect you have photographed evidence of Pythium Blight in your lawn. The photos show the mycelia (white cottony fungal threads) that are present in the early morning hours. Infected leaves become tan to brown, shrivel, and mat when dry. Pythium Blight affects all cool season turfgrass species and can be expanded by free water, clippings, equipment and shoes. Avoid mowing & walking on turf when fungal threads are present. Good soil drainage, minimal thatch, good airflow over the lawn, minimal nitrogen in hot, moist weather help prevent its occurrence. Fungicides can be applied preventatively. More info in the attached links:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/ipm/diseases/pythium-blight#gallery
https://turfpestlab.psu.edu/pest-profiles/pythium-blight/
http://ipm.illinois.edu/diseases/series400/rpd410/
https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/BP/BP-109-W.pdf
https://extension.umd.edu/resource/turfgrass-diseases-pythium-blight-fs-2024-0707/extension.umd.edu/resource/turfgrass-diseases-pythium-blight-fs-2024-0707
I note ragged edges on the grass blades in the photos => time to sharpen your mower blade! More lawn tips here:
Home Lawns | MSU Extension
Smart Lawns Tip Sheets-MSU
Benefits of Slow Release Lawn Fertilizers-MSU
How to Choose & Apply Grub Control Products-MSU
Check out the following articles on lawn overseeding:
Renovating A Lawn for Quality & sustainability-UMN
How to Overseed A Lawn-Iowa
Lawn Renovation & Over-seeding-UMass
You should only need about 1"/week, including rainfall, unless your soil is sandy. Irrigation should be done by 3PM to allow the grass to dry before evening reducing the possibility of disease conditions. Soil compaction might be a cause of bare spots. More info on how to determine the amount of water being applied & soil compaction here:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/how_much_water_does_your_lawn_irrigation_system_apply
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/lawn-irrigation-tips
Smart Watering for Lawns-MSU
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/fs1313/ - soil compaction
https://extension.umn.edu/soil-management-and-health/soil-compaction#iron-deficiency-chlorosis-%28idc%29-1147265 - good info on soil compaction
https://turf.cals.cornell.edu/lawn/lawn-care-the-easiest-steps-to-an-attractive-environmental-asset/advanced-care/soil-compaction/ - lots of info here!
I suspect you have photographed evidence of Pythium Blight in your lawn. The photos show the mycelia (white cottony fungal threads) that are present in the early morning hours. Infected leaves become tan to brown, shrivel, and mat when dry. Pythium Blight affects all cool season turfgrass species and can be expanded by free water, clippings, equipment and shoes. Avoid mowing & walking on turf when fungal threads are present. Good soil drainage, minimal thatch, good airflow over the lawn, minimal nitrogen in hot, moist weather help prevent its occurrence. Fungicides can be applied preventatively. More info in the attached links:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/ipm/diseases/pythium-blight#gallery
https://turfpestlab.psu.edu/pest-profiles/pythium-blight/
http://ipm.illinois.edu/diseases/series400/rpd410/
https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/BP/BP-109-W.pdf
https://extension.umd.edu/resource/turfgrass-diseases-pythium-blight-fs-2024-0707/extension.umd.edu/resource/turfgrass-diseases-pythium-blight-fs-2024-0707
I note ragged edges on the grass blades in the photos => time to sharpen your mower blade! More lawn tips here:
Home Lawns | MSU Extension
Smart Lawns Tip Sheets-MSU
Benefits of Slow Release Lawn Fertilizers-MSU
How to Choose & Apply Grub Control Products-MSU
Thank you for your response. I am a little overwelmed. I come from living with sandy soil my whole life o clay and I hate it. I had ordered a soil test kit. I have someone that does my fertilizing so I will give him those recommendations. For the Pythium Blight I will cut way back on watering. Should my person that fertilizes put down a fungicide or is this strictly for prevention? With my clay soil if I just do some spot seeding like 6-12 diam area (not overseed) should I put down layer of top soil or can I just stir up the small area and sprinkle some seed? I have been putting down a layer of topsoil then sprinkle some seed, fertilizer and straw, this doesn’t seem to be working.
I appreciate you helping me work through this. I am a retired employee from the Oakland County extension, 38 years. I miss walking in and talking to the garden Hotline employees.
Thanks
Cindy
On Jul 31, 2024, at 4:09 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Have your lawn service go online and read the articles I attached about PB treatment in my first email after my paragraph on Pythium Blight. Info on what fungicides to use and how frequently are contained in those articles. Even a paragraph on fungicide rotation to prevent resistance buildup to using a single fungicide. Maybe even print a copy of each for them. Excerpts from two are attached below:
For curative situations, research suggests that cyazofamid, mefanoxam, and propamocarb are the most efficacious options.
Mefenoxam (Subdue Maxx) and propamocarb (Banol) are time-tested materials that have proven to be very effective against Pythium blight. Cyazofamid (Segway) and fluopicolide (Stellar) are new products that reportedly are also very effective. (Purdue)
Here are some articles on reseeding/overseeding:
Lawn Renovation & Over-seeding-UMass
Renovating A Lawn for Quality & sustainability-UMN
How to Overseed A Lawn-Iowa
Establishing A New Lawn Using Seed (E2910)-MSU - this article is for new lawns (lots of similarities)
It's important to disturb the soil about 1/2" deep in the planting area and mix in compost or topsoil. Mix a bit of starter fertilizer in with the soil before seeding and strawing too.
For curative situations, research suggests that cyazofamid, mefanoxam, and propamocarb are the most efficacious options.
Mefenoxam (Subdue Maxx) and propamocarb (Banol) are time-tested materials that have proven to be very effective against Pythium blight. Cyazofamid (Segway) and fluopicolide (Stellar) are new products that reportedly are also very effective. (Purdue)
Here are some articles on reseeding/overseeding:
Lawn Renovation & Over-seeding-UMass
Renovating A Lawn for Quality & sustainability-UMN
How to Overseed A Lawn-Iowa
Establishing A New Lawn Using Seed (E2910)-MSU - this article is for new lawns (lots of similarities)
It's important to disturb the soil about 1/2" deep in the planting area and mix in compost or topsoil. Mix a bit of starter fertilizer in with the soil before seeding and strawing too.
