circle like areas that grow brown and where grass dies and baby's breath takes over - Ask Extension
Hi. I'm in Mason County but relate to Manistee. We have the typical Kalkaska Sandy Loam. It's hard to get anything to grow. First starting as an a...
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circle like areas that grow brown and where grass dies and baby's breath takes over #878898
Asked July 26, 2024, 12:43 PM EDT
Hi. I'm in Mason County but relate to Manistee. We have the typical Kalkaska Sandy Loam. It's hard to get anything to grow. First starting as an arc but now expanding I have these arc and circle spots. I have used larva killer and fungus killer to no avail. I hope we can find a solution that doesn't include and PSAs. I'll appreciate very much whatever help you can suggest.
Sorry, but I need to get an adapter to my new PC to be able to send pictures.
Mason County Michigan
Expert Response
Hello Josh,
Well, we can suggest some ways to get turf to grow, and a healthy turf is key to preventing unwanted weedy plants from moving in.
Firstly, get a soil test so you know what nutrients etc you have, and which ones are missing, to grow your grass.
https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/236/21432/Soil_Test.pdf
Kill or remove babys breath weeds by following the Baby’s Breath bulletin below. There are many turf weed products that contain 2,4-D and dicamba, both which are labelled to control Baby’s Breath plants. An organic option would be to dig the plants out, or smother them with layers of card board( but smothering does take some weeks.)
Next follow good soil preparation and seeding to establish grass in the dead areas. You can work in the fall dose of fertilizer/amendments recommended by your soil test before you seed.
https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/establishing_a_new_lawn_using_seed_e2910
Here is an article on controlling Baby’S Breath when it is considered a weed— https://wric.ucdavis.edu/information/crop/natural%20areas/wr_G/Gypsophila.pdf
Well, we can suggest some ways to get turf to grow, and a healthy turf is key to preventing unwanted weedy plants from moving in.
Firstly, get a soil test so you know what nutrients etc you have, and which ones are missing, to grow your grass.
https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/236/21432/Soil_Test.pdf
Kill or remove babys breath weeds by following the Baby’s Breath bulletin below. There are many turf weed products that contain 2,4-D and dicamba, both which are labelled to control Baby’s Breath plants. An organic option would be to dig the plants out, or smother them with layers of card board( but smothering does take some weeks.)
Next follow good soil preparation and seeding to establish grass in the dead areas. You can work in the fall dose of fertilizer/amendments recommended by your soil test before you seed.
https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/establishing_a_new_lawn_using_seed_e2910
Here is an article on controlling Baby’S Breath when it is considered a weed— https://wric.ucdavis.edu/information/crop/natural%20areas/wr_G/Gypsophila.pdf
I should also add that digging down into the circle or arc sections are you finding old tree roots or something else that might be contributing to the problem with the grass?
Is the soil much different from other areas that are still green?
Do the circles/arcs correspond to where a mower or tractor or other equipment has made turns in the grass? Or, where a fertilizer spreader made turns?
Regards,
Laura S.
Is the soil much different from other areas that are still green?
Do the circles/arcs correspond to where a mower or tractor or other equipment has made turns in the grass? Or, where a fertilizer spreader made turns?
Regards,
Laura S.
Hi Laura,
Thanks so much for your response. Here's the answers to your questions: No tree roots, the soils is the same throughout the lawn and was initially put in 23 years ago. Our local soil is Kalkaska Sandy Loam and we have about the worst in our area we think as it is difficult to grow anything other than ferns and pine. We had top soil brought in, but it was sandy too, very loose. We planted no mow fescue which clumped and didn't let new grass grow between clumps. It took a long time for it to even get clumps across all the lawn. It was nice that it didn't need much mowing or watering. Except for the clumping. We over seeded this fall, which seemed to do nothing. We got a soil test for the garden beds, which though even though was much enriched with compost showed deficiencies in nitrogen. Sorry I don't have it at hand. We last fertilized last fall. It didn't seem worth it this Spring. Over the last few years we get lots of volunteer grasses from our field so for overseeding we just used the grass from the local department store (Meijers).
Thanks,
Josh
Thank you Josh
I suspect your grass needs fertilization, may have low organic matter, and perhaps has too little irrigation and too little full sun to get a thick turf established.
The most difficult thing to change is the sun exposure. You can get more sunlight to the turf area by limbing up and/or thinning surrounding trees. (note- do not prune oaks until after 2-3 hard freezes in fall/winter). Find arborists by zip code here-
http://www.treesaregood.org
Check your soil test and apply 1 lb of N per 1000 sq feet at least twice per year- three times per year would be better. Follow the test results for other nutrients and amendments. Always follow the label directions and precautions for any product you use.
Use a ‘time release’ lawn fertilizer which helps over a longer period especially in sandy soil.
When mowing, allow clippings to disintegrate into the soil, raising organic matter over time- this helps retain moisture and retain nutrients. Apply 1/4 inch compost broadcast over the turf will help as well.
Water 1 inch per week, counting rainfall, divided into 3-4 waterings.
When you do mow, leave grass no shorter than 3 inches, which encourages deeper roots and leaves enough leaf matter to feed the plants.
Establishing a lawn will not be a one season project; it is the ongoing care and improvement of soil that eventually gets the lawn going. This may mean several seasons of overseeding the grass. Fertilizing 2-3 times per year and irrigating are needed every season. https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/go_green_lawncare_tip_sheet
If your site is too shaded(less than 6 hours of full sun) consider establishing beds of shade tolerant perennials and native plants, low growing shrubs and ground covers.
https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/Shady_lawn_alternatives.pdf
I hope this gives you some ideas on how to improve your landscape.
Regards,
Laura
I suspect your grass needs fertilization, may have low organic matter, and perhaps has too little irrigation and too little full sun to get a thick turf established.
The most difficult thing to change is the sun exposure. You can get more sunlight to the turf area by limbing up and/or thinning surrounding trees. (note- do not prune oaks until after 2-3 hard freezes in fall/winter). Find arborists by zip code here-
http://www.treesaregood.org
Check your soil test and apply 1 lb of N per 1000 sq feet at least twice per year- three times per year would be better. Follow the test results for other nutrients and amendments. Always follow the label directions and precautions for any product you use.
Use a ‘time release’ lawn fertilizer which helps over a longer period especially in sandy soil.
When mowing, allow clippings to disintegrate into the soil, raising organic matter over time- this helps retain moisture and retain nutrients. Apply 1/4 inch compost broadcast over the turf will help as well.
Water 1 inch per week, counting rainfall, divided into 3-4 waterings.
When you do mow, leave grass no shorter than 3 inches, which encourages deeper roots and leaves enough leaf matter to feed the plants.
Establishing a lawn will not be a one season project; it is the ongoing care and improvement of soil that eventually gets the lawn going. This may mean several seasons of overseeding the grass. Fertilizing 2-3 times per year and irrigating are needed every season. https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/go_green_lawncare_tip_sheet
If your site is too shaded(less than 6 hours of full sun) consider establishing beds of shade tolerant perennials and native plants, low growing shrubs and ground covers.
https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/Shady_lawn_alternatives.pdf
I hope this gives you some ideas on how to improve your landscape.
Regards,
Laura
Hi. Thanks for your suggestions. No, we want to solve the problem with organics. Again, there are no tree roots, it is not in the shade, instead it is all sun. We've tried antifungal and antilarval treatments to no avail. We don't want to irrigate, being more environmental to leave it off, besides we have just had a long period of ample rain, and the problem has spread, adding circles and arcs to the original arc. We have overseeded to no avail. We just can't seem to get grass to grow in these spots. We're really stumped.
Yours,
Josh
I recommend you submit your question about the arcs and circles, along with pictures to MSU Plant and Pest Diagnostic lab, providing all the information you have here. The weed and plant specialists are professional, and can also consult with the professors at MSU Turf School, if needed. Start by emailing your question, information, and a few good pictures to <personal data hidden>
Consultation by email is free.
The lab will give you an opinion, and will probably want you to submit a sod sample in order to fully diagnose what is causing the arcs and circles. There is a modest fee for analyzing samples. Instructions, sample submission form, and fee schedule is on the lab website
https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/
Our residential lawns are monocultures invented by humans, and so can not be left to fend for themselves without our help, i.e. fertilizer, irrigation, weed control.
There are some good Extension guides for organic lawns, weed control, and landscaping, so fertilizing doesn’t mean it can’t be organic:
https://canr.udel.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/16/2018/04/12024352/Intro_to_Organic_Lawns_and_Yards.pdf
https://extension.unh.edu/resource/organic-turf-frequently-asked-questions
A long drought will kill grass crowns and the thin spots will then be open to weeds again. This has more on keeping a dormant grass alive during a drought:
https://www.purdue.edu/newsroom/outreach/2012/120628PattonLawn.html#:~:text=%22Once%20the%20lawn%20turns%20brown,plant%20crowns%20hydrated%20during%20drought.
Best Regards
Laura