Is this Creeping Bentgrass and what is recommendation for it's removal? - Ask Extension
Hello, We live around Detroit (Zone 6a/6b) and we have a patch of grass that is spreading in out lawn. After some research and learning about how t...
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Is this Creeping Bentgrass and what is recommendation for it's removal? #878541
Asked July 24, 2024, 10:31 AM EDT
Hello,
We live around Detroit (Zone 6a/6b) and we have a patch of grass that is spreading in out lawn. After some research and learning about how to identify grass (via PSU), I'm fairly confident it is creeping bentgrass. Do you believe the same?
If so, how should we proceed? After some research on how to remove, I'm reading different things like using Glysophate, Tenacity, or even covering with a plastic sheet until dead. I'm open to all suggestions but this is my first time owning a lawn so I'm very new to it all. If I were to do one of the following options, what should be my next step? Am I okay to reseed now (early August) or wait until Fall (late September)?
Any help and knowledge would be appreciated, thank you!
Wayne County Michigan
Expert Response
The close up photo you sent looks more to me like tall fescue (with furrowed wider leaf blades than your typical lawn grass). This would be the grass creating those few clumps in your lawn with the wider blades. These can be dug out by had and reseeded as this grass has no vegetative reproductive structures (rhizomes or stolons) that can reroot once you've removed the original crown.
The patch in the landscape photo though does look like it could be creeping bentgrass (other possibilities are rough bluegrass and nimblewill). If you'd like to submit more photos to me I have some suggested photos that would help...check out this article...https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/grass-photography-tips-for-id-help-us-help-you
The control though is not really going to change for the larger patch. Since all of these possibilities have vegetative reproductive structures it is harder to remove them by digging (though not impossible...the areas excavated needs to be larger than the patch and deep enough to get all underground structure.
Smothering the grass with a tarp or plastic sheeting is an option, but it will likely take several month to get a complete kill.
Spraying it with an herbicide that has only glyphosate in it is an option. This product is getting harder to find, so you'll want to read the fine print on the herbicide bottle and follow all labeled directions. Tractor Supply Company (TSC) often has generic forms still available. Once you spray you'll need to wait 2-3 weeks to see full activity. You can reseed at any time as the glyphosate is not active once it reaches the soil surface...but if you get regrowth you wouldn't want to have to kill off everything you just planted...so it's best to wait to make sure it is completely dead. Well established patches may take more than one application.
More on glyphosate,,
When using products containing glyphosate there are a few important points to consider. First, as with any pesticide, remember to read and follow all labeled instructions. Second, glyphosate is a broad-spectrum herbicide, meaning it will injure or kill other plants contacted during application, so care is needed to avoid green plant material, exposed roots, and injured bark of desired plants. Third, glyphosate is relatively safe in the environment when used as labeled. It adsorbs strongly to soil in most cases (i.e. clay and organic matter), allowing even sensitive crops to be planted shortly after application; meaning no carry over issues are expected. Fourth, glyphosate alone can take up to 14 days to show full activity under ideal growing conditions. Retreatment of the area may be needed depending on the degree of infestation. Glyphosate is most effective for perennial control in the fall but can be applied anytime the plants are actively growing (temperatures consistently above 50F). For woody species, periods of heavy sap flow in the spring may not be effective times to treat. Finally, be sure that the product you choose has only the active ingredient glyphosate or glyphosate + pelargonic acid. Products with additional active ingredients may have other unwanted effects and may delay the planting of other plants in the coming season(s).
If you have any questions, please let me know. I am happy to help.
The patch in the landscape photo though does look like it could be creeping bentgrass (other possibilities are rough bluegrass and nimblewill). If you'd like to submit more photos to me I have some suggested photos that would help...check out this article...https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/grass-photography-tips-for-id-help-us-help-you
The control though is not really going to change for the larger patch. Since all of these possibilities have vegetative reproductive structures it is harder to remove them by digging (though not impossible...the areas excavated needs to be larger than the patch and deep enough to get all underground structure.
Smothering the grass with a tarp or plastic sheeting is an option, but it will likely take several month to get a complete kill.
Spraying it with an herbicide that has only glyphosate in it is an option. This product is getting harder to find, so you'll want to read the fine print on the herbicide bottle and follow all labeled directions. Tractor Supply Company (TSC) often has generic forms still available. Once you spray you'll need to wait 2-3 weeks to see full activity. You can reseed at any time as the glyphosate is not active once it reaches the soil surface...but if you get regrowth you wouldn't want to have to kill off everything you just planted...so it's best to wait to make sure it is completely dead. Well established patches may take more than one application.
More on glyphosate,,
When using products containing glyphosate there are a few important points to consider. First, as with any pesticide, remember to read and follow all labeled instructions. Second, glyphosate is a broad-spectrum herbicide, meaning it will injure or kill other plants contacted during application, so care is needed to avoid green plant material, exposed roots, and injured bark of desired plants. Third, glyphosate is relatively safe in the environment when used as labeled. It adsorbs strongly to soil in most cases (i.e. clay and organic matter), allowing even sensitive crops to be planted shortly after application; meaning no carry over issues are expected. Fourth, glyphosate alone can take up to 14 days to show full activity under ideal growing conditions. Retreatment of the area may be needed depending on the degree of infestation. Glyphosate is most effective for perennial control in the fall but can be applied anytime the plants are actively growing (temperatures consistently above 50F). For woody species, periods of heavy sap flow in the spring may not be effective times to treat. Finally, be sure that the product you choose has only the active ingredient glyphosate or glyphosate + pelargonic acid. Products with additional active ingredients may have other unwanted effects and may delay the planting of other plants in the coming season(s).
If you have any questions, please let me know. I am happy to help.
