Hydrangea replant? - Ask Extension
My three hydrangeas were blooming last summer when the contractor building my retaining wall had to put them in pots and went in my veg garden. He put...
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Hydrangea replant? #878427
Asked July 23, 2024, 1:12 PM EDT
My three hydrangeas were blooming last summer when the contractor building my retaining wall had to put them in pots and went in my veg garden. He put them back this spring . I just put a new one in and removed them because there was no growth but the stems are sturdy. What is my best option?
I live in zone 5 in Houghton County of the U.P.
Houghton County Michigan
Expert Response
Thank you for your question!
Sometimes it takes longer to "take root" than what we think it should take. The plants may be experiencing "transplant shock".
There may be some things to help them adjust better.
Hydrangeas exhibit more susceptibility to water content than other plants. They thrive in well-drained organically rich soil, consistently moist without being soggy. I am not sure how they were planted - their preference is planting twice the depth and width of the root ball, having mixed in coconut coir or moistened peat moss at the bottom of the planting hole. Often a powder or water-soluble rooting hormone can be added to the root ball or at the bottom of the planting hole. You may wish to continue watering with a water-soluble rooting hormone for a couple of weeks to stimulate root development.
On the flip side of the water issue - don't overwater as this may cause roots to rot. A good rule of thumb is small bushes 1-2 gallons/week and bigger bushes 3 gallons/week. Check the moisture level by placing your finger in the ground 2 inches to check the moisture level, as you may have to adjust if it has rained during the week.
Mulching will help retain the moisture and keep the soil cooler while new roots are trying to grow. Mulch 1-3" thick leaving at least a 1" gap where the stems meet the ground.
I am not sure where you had placed your hydrangeas. Another option may be to create a shade block that shades not more than 50% of the sun for at least a month, allowing those roots to develop, without losing water through the leaves.
The three main nutrients that plants need are (N-P-K) N nitrogen for leaf growth, P phosphorous for root development and K potassium for branches and trunks. A good adage to remember is up, down, and all around. As a last resort you may want to try and add a slow release phosphorous fertilizer that may help in root development. My caution here is you don't want a lot of new tender roots to develop before the temperature drops in your area. You want the new roots to have time to "harden off" before cold temps arrive. This first year I would try and cover to protect them from the winter temperature with a thick mulch layer after you are certain it is consistently cold.
I've included 2 articles that may interest you.
Selecting Hydrangeas for the Home Landscape | Ohioline (osu.edu)
HYDRANGEA - HYDRANGEA SPP. | The UFOR Nursery & Lab (umn.edu)
Sometimes it takes longer to "take root" than what we think it should take. The plants may be experiencing "transplant shock".
There may be some things to help them adjust better.
Hydrangeas exhibit more susceptibility to water content than other plants. They thrive in well-drained organically rich soil, consistently moist without being soggy. I am not sure how they were planted - their preference is planting twice the depth and width of the root ball, having mixed in coconut coir or moistened peat moss at the bottom of the planting hole. Often a powder or water-soluble rooting hormone can be added to the root ball or at the bottom of the planting hole. You may wish to continue watering with a water-soluble rooting hormone for a couple of weeks to stimulate root development.
On the flip side of the water issue - don't overwater as this may cause roots to rot. A good rule of thumb is small bushes 1-2 gallons/week and bigger bushes 3 gallons/week. Check the moisture level by placing your finger in the ground 2 inches to check the moisture level, as you may have to adjust if it has rained during the week.
Mulching will help retain the moisture and keep the soil cooler while new roots are trying to grow. Mulch 1-3" thick leaving at least a 1" gap where the stems meet the ground.
I am not sure where you had placed your hydrangeas. Another option may be to create a shade block that shades not more than 50% of the sun for at least a month, allowing those roots to develop, without losing water through the leaves.
The three main nutrients that plants need are (N-P-K) N nitrogen for leaf growth, P phosphorous for root development and K potassium for branches and trunks. A good adage to remember is up, down, and all around. As a last resort you may want to try and add a slow release phosphorous fertilizer that may help in root development. My caution here is you don't want a lot of new tender roots to develop before the temperature drops in your area. You want the new roots to have time to "harden off" before cold temps arrive. This first year I would try and cover to protect them from the winter temperature with a thick mulch layer after you are certain it is consistently cold.
I've included 2 articles that may interest you.
Selecting Hydrangeas for the Home Landscape | Ohioline (osu.edu)
HYDRANGEA - HYDRANGEA SPP. | The UFOR Nursery & Lab (umn.edu)
