Grass refusing to grow in certain patches - Ask Extension
I have been trying all spring to get grass to establish in two patches in my background with no luck- literally not a single blade. I tilled the soil ...
Knowledgebase
Grass refusing to grow in certain patches #875530
Asked July 01, 2024, 3:26 PM EDT
I have been trying all spring to get grass to establish in two patches in my background with no luck- literally not a single blade. I tilled the soil to a depth if eight inches to aerate the soil, given it more than adequate water and have seeded it three times with different shade and drought tolerant seed and fertilized it as well. Seed in adjacent areas have grown. One area is shaded but the other is in full sun.
The CSU soil lab tested a sample and found nothing unusual except high levels of metals especially copper and arsenic. I'm wondering if a previous owner dumped something in these areas that is keeping them from establishing.
Can you suggest any approaches to try to get grass to grow? If not, is there a hardier cover crop I can try?
Larimer County Colorado
Expert Response
Hi Michael,
Can you send me some photos?
To be honest, if you're struggling to grow grass or turf, it almost always comes down to irrigation.
Tell me how you're watering:
1. What type of heads?
2. How often do you run the system (# of days/week)?
3. How long do you run the system (# of minutes/cycle)?
Have you done an audit to rule out irrigation? This would be the first step - a head may be crooked, clogged, not popping up fully, etc. I'm attaching the publication on doing an audit - see page 2.
Can you send me some photos?
To be honest, if you're struggling to grow grass or turf, it almost always comes down to irrigation.
Tell me how you're watering:
1. What type of heads?
2. How often do you run the system (# of days/week)?
3. How long do you run the system (# of minutes/cycle)?
Have you done an audit to rule out irrigation? This would be the first step - a head may be crooked, clogged, not popping up fully, etc. I'm attaching the publication on doing an audit - see page 2.
I water everyday for 20 minutes around 6 am and 5 minutes around 1 pm to cool the surface through evaporation. The reason I am convinced it's not water is that grass will sprout in one area and then you go one foot away and, as I said, literally nothing grows. I've attached some pictures- the healthy looking grass was planted this year along the the bare areas.
Hi again,
The next time you water, collect the water in a few cups to determine how much you put out in 20 minutes. And then multiply that number by 7, since you're irrigating every day. That will help determine the amount of water being applied in a week - it might not be enough and only keeping the surface of the soil moist. Or it might be enough. Either way, it's good to know how much water is being applied.
A couple things:
1. Do you need grass in this space? Is it used for play/recreation? Are there other surfaces to consider, like mulch, that will also work?
2. You don't need to water at 1pm to cool the surface.
3. Instead of watering every day, combine your irrigation and water for a longer period, but fewer days per week. For example, water for 60 minutes, but only two days per week.
4. There is a lot of perennial ryegrass that is growing - the dark green patches. If you want to do grass seed, continue with the ryegrass because it's clearly thriving - see the steps below to seeding.
5. Put a large mulch ring around your lilac near the fence.
When seeding, follow these steps:
1. Make lots and lots and lots of holes - in this space, use a pitchfork or another tool to punch holes in the ground.
2. Seed directly into the holes - only a couple seeds per hole are all that's needed. The seeding rate for perennial ryegrass is 6-8 pounds of seed/1000 square feet.
3. Rake gently to get the seed in contact with the soil - this is an important step. Seed on top of the soil will not germinate well.
4. Water to keep the seed coat moist.
5. Mow as soon as you're able. Mowing helps "tillering" and promotes turf branching and root development.
The next time you water, collect the water in a few cups to determine how much you put out in 20 minutes. And then multiply that number by 7, since you're irrigating every day. That will help determine the amount of water being applied in a week - it might not be enough and only keeping the surface of the soil moist. Or it might be enough. Either way, it's good to know how much water is being applied.
A couple things:
1. Do you need grass in this space? Is it used for play/recreation? Are there other surfaces to consider, like mulch, that will also work?
2. You don't need to water at 1pm to cool the surface.
3. Instead of watering every day, combine your irrigation and water for a longer period, but fewer days per week. For example, water for 60 minutes, but only two days per week.
4. There is a lot of perennial ryegrass that is growing - the dark green patches. If you want to do grass seed, continue with the ryegrass because it's clearly thriving - see the steps below to seeding.
5. Put a large mulch ring around your lilac near the fence.
When seeding, follow these steps:
1. Make lots and lots and lots of holes - in this space, use a pitchfork or another tool to punch holes in the ground.
2. Seed directly into the holes - only a couple seeds per hole are all that's needed. The seeding rate for perennial ryegrass is 6-8 pounds of seed/1000 square feet.
3. Rake gently to get the seed in contact with the soil - this is an important step. Seed on top of the soil will not germinate well.
4. Water to keep the seed coat moist.
5. Mow as soon as you're able. Mowing helps "tillering" and promotes turf branching and root development.
