Knowledgebase
What’s wrong with my tomato plants? TMV? #874911
Asked June 27, 2024, 8:23 AM EDT
Howard County Maryland
Expert Response
Here are more pictures of affected tomatoes:
Here is a neighboring tomato plant in a different pot. It seems less affected.
Nearby squash (one normal leaf, one affected)
Affected marigolds next to the squash:
Affected squash:
Tomato on other side of deck (~6’ away?) that is discolored but has not experienced leaf death
And one more picture of the tomato plant plus a squash plant that’s next to that tomato plant
Sorry for all the replies - I couldn’t fit the photos in fewer posts.
I’m concerned this is either a mosaic virus that affects nightshades and cucurbits generally, but also I don’t want to destroy my entire garden if this is actually sunscald or nutrient deficiency. The timing in the season seems wrong for a mosaic virus, but broad variety of plants affected and leaf discoloration seem to match mosaic virus. All plants doing very well considering heat stress and whatever this issue is - none have completely died from this.
All plants but the dahlias were grown from seed in new soil, in a mix of new and old pots. Dahlia plant purchased in current pot. Most were started indoors under grow lights and moved outside in April or May. All get neem oil for insects and standard miracle grow fertilizer about once a week, maybe a little less. None of the plants are new.
Mites love hot, dry weather and can produce many generations during the growing season. They don't like wet, humid conditions. Spray your plants in the morning to discourage and dislodge mites. The injury to your plants is significant so spraying with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, especially during hot weather, could exacerbate the damage. You can also wipe the mites off leaf undersides with a soft, damp cloth.
If you can reduce the population and feeding you may get a decent tomato harvest. Keep plants well-watered and fertilize as needed. Consider moving containers to a spot where they will receive late afternoon shade. This will reduce heat stress to the plants and spider mite activity.
There may be other sucking insect pests- leafhoppers, thrips, aphids, whiteflies- that are feeding on your marigolds and dahlias.
Jon
Thank you so much!! I am incredibly relieved that it’s not likely a mosaic virus. Bugs I can fight (even if I can’t see them).
if the plants are too damaged for horticultural oil, is spraying the plants with a strong hose the best method for removal? Or should I not try to remove the mites and instead focus on reducing the other sources of stress to the plants (heat, sun)?
A follow up question: I have noticed spotted lanternfly nymphs on my squash plants.
I reported them because they’re an invasive species, but I was not expecting them to damage my plants since I read they feed on trees mostly.
Could they be causing the damage to those plants?
Thanks again!! I am very grateful for your help!
1. yes, sprays of water from a hose to tops and bottoms of leaves would be helpful (daily or several times per week). Spray early enough in the day so foliage dries by late afternoon.
2. SLF adults and nymphs will be seen on many different plants. They are not known to feed on any vegetable plants.
Jon
Thank you so much!! I am incredibly relieved that it’s not likely a mosaic virus. Bugs I can fight (even if I can’t see them).
if the plants are too damaged for horticultural oil, is spraying the plants with a strong hose the best method for removal? Or should I not try to remove the mites and instead focus on reducing the other sources of stress to the plants (heat, sun)?
A follow up question: I have noticed spotted lanternfly nymphs on my squash plants.
I reported them because they’re an invasive species, but I was not expecting them to damage my plants since I read they feed on trees mostly.
Could they be causing the damage to those plants?
Thanks again!! I am very grateful for your help!
