Replant in compacted soil? - Ask Extension
Hello, last fall, we had a flower bed made by a landscaping company. They turned over the soil (heavy clay concentration), added 3 inches of compost, ...
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Replant in compacted soil? #874151
Asked June 22, 2024, 9:03 AM EDT
Hello, last fall, we had a flower bed made by a landscaping company. They turned over the soil (heavy clay concentration), added 3 inches of compost, and then turned it over again a couple times. Then they put 3 inches of mulch on top. About a month later, I planted several bunches of native plants. One group I planted was False Indigo (from quart containers), and all of them made it through the winter. However, it's now June, and the False Indigo have only come up about a foot tall so far. QUESTION 1: Is this size normal the first year? QUESTION 2: When I use a soil moisture meter, the soil around these False Indigos is almost brick hard, yet the moisture stays fairly high-- does this indicate heavy clay concentration, and should I dig them up and re-plant them with better draining soil? Thank you!
Prince George's County Maryland
Expert Response
Yes, it is perfectly normal for many perennials (especially slow-to-establish species like Baptisia) to look like they're not growing much in their first or second full year in the ground. The adage "first they sleep, then they creep, then they leap" generalizes a common pattern followed by new plantings, which is to say that they don't look like they're doing much the first year (though more root growth, out of sight, is occurring); the second year they increase in size a little; and the third year they really start coming into their own, with more growth and the beginning of flowering (if they weren't already). Not every species follows this pattern, but it is typical of many. Baptisia is notorious for looking fairly wimpy and unimpressive in terms of growth when sold in containers, but as they get established, they can be long-lived and very lush. They also do not tolerate being transplanted well, at least once roots are settled-in, so avoid moving them if possible, unless conditions like sunlight level and drainage are not suitable for their needs. Fortunately, they handle clay soil well, as long as it's not soggy or poorly-drained.
Incorporation of 3 inches of organic matter, plus the slow addition of more as mulches break down and are replenished, should be plenty for most plants.
We haven't tested the accuracy of moisture meter probes, so consider also testing the soil by hand at first, to see how consistent its readings are. Feeling the soil around four to six inches deep near the root zone of plants will help determine when watering is needed. If it feels somewhat dry to the touch at that depth, watering would probably be beneficial. If damp when checked, watering is probably not needed. You can do a simple percolation test if you want to see if the soil has adequate drainage or not by digging a hole, filling it with water and letting that drain, and then filling it a second time and timing how long that takes to drain. Details can be found on the linked page.
Miri
Incorporation of 3 inches of organic matter, plus the slow addition of more as mulches break down and are replenished, should be plenty for most plants.
We haven't tested the accuracy of moisture meter probes, so consider also testing the soil by hand at first, to see how consistent its readings are. Feeling the soil around four to six inches deep near the root zone of plants will help determine when watering is needed. If it feels somewhat dry to the touch at that depth, watering would probably be beneficial. If damp when checked, watering is probably not needed. You can do a simple percolation test if you want to see if the soil has adequate drainage or not by digging a hole, filling it with water and letting that drain, and then filling it a second time and timing how long that takes to drain. Details can be found on the linked page.
Miri