Greetings, Daniel, and thank you for your question to AskExtension/Ask a Master Gardener. I am happy to try to help you narrow down your tree selection. I was delighted to get your question, because I went through a similar struggle when we lost an Ash tree several years ago. It took me a couple of years to decide on a replacement tree, but the time invested was well worth it. Hopefully, I can streamline the decision-making process for you. I’m guessing that we might have a bit of a “conversation” about this, because I am not understanding all of your requirements clearly. So, feel free to respond to this email, and it will come directly to me. I will do more research and get back to you as soon as possible. Don’t be concerned that the question will be marked as “closed”; it will be reopened if you respond.

Meanwhile, I hear you say that you would like to select a tree native to NE Ohio, non-invasive, with non-invasive roots, friendly to birds and pollinators and not heavy shade (in that order). I don’t understand what you mean concerning “root infiltration”, which usually refers to roots getting into pipes or septic systems. Is this your concern? How does it relate to your patio?

I’ll begin by responding to your question as I understand it. In looking at your photo, a couple things jump out at me. The first is that the tree in the photo is very close to the patio, to the house and to the grill. The heat from the grill could be a concern for a nearby tree. I personally wouldn’t plant a tree that close to your grilling site. Just an opinion! Regarding distance to your house, a small tree might be okay that close, but a medium or large tree might overhang your gutters and roof as it matures. (It is hard to gauge distance from a photo.) In all cases, moving it a little further away from the edge of your patio than the pear is currently planted might be a smart move. (We had our replacement tree installed by certified professionals who helped us with placement, ensured the tree was planted at the correct depth and made sure the roots were not bound or encircled. It was worth the cost.)

Based on the information given, I believe you might want a small to medium-sized tree. Correct me if I am wrong! Some tree options you might want to consider are:

Dogwood (Cornus florida aka Flowering Dogwood) – These are native to your area. They tolerate wet or medium soil, and grow to a height of only 15-20 feet, with a flat, spaced habit that yields dappled, rather than dense, shade. Their root system is listed as non-invasive. Check it out here and here.

Magnolia (Magnolia virginiana aka Sweetbay Magnolia; also the variety Glauca Sweetbay Magnolia)– This native Ohio tree grows to be 10 - 35 feet in tall, depending on the variety. It boasts beautiful flowers in the spring. It has a dense habit and a beautiful shape. It is bird and pollinator friendly. Its root system is listed as non-invasive. Check it out here. (Note: not all Magnolia are native to Ohio)

Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana) This is the beautiful tree we finally decided on for our yard. It has gorgeous spring flowers, lovely fall leaves and is friendly to birds and pollinators. Unlike some cherries, it is not a messy tree. The birds pick it clean before the cherries have a chance to fall. The fruit is also small. I chose it for its shade and its pyramidal shape. Although it is larger than the previous named trees at 20-30 feet, there may be a smaller variety available, should you desire that. They have shallow roots with rhizomes that are prone to suckering. If planted in an area that is frequently mowed, they should not cause a problem. Check out Chokecherry here.

Serviceberry – (Amelanchier) This multi-trunked tree (some say shrub) can grow 15-30 feet. It is a member of the rose family and has edible berries that are a food source for wildlife. It has lovely spring blossoms, summer berries and fall color. Check it out here.

Larger Trees - If you are interested in a larger tree you might consider a native red maple, a tulip tree or an Ohio Buckeye. Let me know if you want more information.

If you would like to continue the conversation, please share more about the planting site as to sun, soil, water and drainage. The photo looks like a sunny spot, but I don’t know what is to the right of the photo or what the directionality is. Is the spot well drained? Does it get adequate water? It looks like the hill behind your patio may slope toward the planting site; does that cause the site to be overly wet at times? Is the soil sandy, clay or loam? What size do you envision your tree to be at maturity? Is there a shape of tree you prefer? Is spring flowering and/or autumn color important?

BTW - I feel your pain with the contradictory and overwhelming information that comes with a Google search! There is so much information, and misinformation out there. When answering questions for AskExtension/Ask a Master Gardener I always check that my information is as current and accurate as possible by using and citing only research-based sites. To find such information I add “site:edu” or “site:org” to my search, and then choose vetted sites, such as university extension sites. It’s a great tip that one of my colleagues gave, and I now share it with you!

I’ve included the best of these sites, some embedded in the above response and others listed below (with overlap).

Please let me know if I can be of further help to you. And we would greatly appreciate if you would answer the very brief survey that is at the end of this email. Wishing you the best of luck with the selection of the native Ohio tree for your patio landscaping!

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Resources for you:

Planting Recommendations - Cincinnati Zoo and Botanical Gardens (Scroll down to Trees and Shrubs section) https://cincinnatizoo.org/gardens/plants/

Native Trees: Creating Living Landscapes for Birds, Butterflies, Bees and Other Beneficials Ohio State University Extension Ohioline –https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/hyg-5815

Ohio Trees for Bees - The Ohio State University Extension https://faes-webmain.org.ohio-state.edu/ohioline/factsheet/ent-71

List of NW Ohio Natives – Lucas County Soil and Water Conservation District https://www.lucasswcd.org/uploads/1/1/8/3/118306178/mvgnative-plants_120308.pdf

Magnolia virginiana – NC State Extension https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/magnolia-virginiana/

Chokecherry: Prunus virginiana USDA Plant Fact Sheet https://plants.usda.gov/DocumentLibrary/factsheet/pdf/fs_prvi.pdf

Amelanchier – NC State Extension https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/amelanchier/

Flowering Dogwood – US Forest Service https://www.srs.fs.usda.gov/pubs/misc/ag_654/volume_2/cornus/florida.htm

Thank you for your response, and your assumptions are pretty spot on for the size we're looking for.  Maybe this picture will better illustrate what I meant when using the term root infiltration.  I'm not concerned at all with roots entering any pipes or drains as there are none.  I'm mostly worried about shallow roots pushing up and destroying the nearby patio.  The area will be full sun, the original photo pointing to the SW and the new photo below was taken at around 10am so you can see the tree is already in full sun and will remain so until sunset. We're looking to pull this Cleveland Pear out and plant in the same spot.  The yard is well graded so all the water during storms drains away from our home and runs away from the property.  In four years we've not had any standing water in the backyard that lasted more than a day or two even after large snow melts and storms.  The soil is almost entirely compacted clay since it was new construction.  We've been slowly trying to add in compost and mulch around the trees but the only things growing well is our little patch of milkweed and sunflowers.  The company that planted everything before we moved in seemed to have not known too much about the trees they were planting. After looking at your suggestions I believe the tree on the other side of the patio is a Chokecherry (I've attached some photos of that one as well).  We were told it was a "Canadian red maple variety" which we realized after the fact there was no way it was a maple.  We like it so far so I'm glad I know what it is now.  We had dogwoods in my yard growing up but they all died to disease of some sort even after planting new disease resistant varieties.  So I have some hesitations there but I'm sure there's much better varieties now than 30 years ago.  

I'll have to look things over, but I think we might just do another chokeberry.  I too am worried about the heat from the grill which is why the shape of the Pear works in that area but there is room to pull the grill away from the corner which we often do in the fall or if it's been very dry out.  Thank you so much for all of the information you provided!  Is there a good way to find good professionals for a tree replacement?  Any certifications that would indicate we could trust the judgement of a specific person or company?    It would be wonderful to deal with someone that knows what they're doing and have no issues paying for a professional. 

Thank you for writing back, Daniel! The photos and information you provided are very helpful. I have some additional information for you in return, which I hope you will find of use.

You asked if there was a good way to find good professionals for tree replacement. The Virginia Department of Forestry says: “Hiring an arborist to plant, prune, remove, or perform routine maintenance on trees will ensure that you receive substantial returns on your investment. These professionals prioritize safety and follow the standards of proper tree care (known as ANSI A300 Standards) set forth by the Tree Care Industry Association.” (Full article here.) And this article from Ohioline will tell you everything you need to know about hiring a certified arborist. In our case, the arborist came to our property to provide an inspection. He recommended reliable garden centers in the area and removed our diseased tree. I would recommend that you begin by contacting a certified arborist in your area. S/he will be able to give you great advice about tree removal, local garden centers, selection of a cultivar and can plant (or supervise the planting) of your new tree.

You talked about the other tree currently planted near your patio. From your photo, I believe you are correct in thinking it is a Chokecherry (Amelanchier). There is a variety of Chokecherry called ‘Canada Red’ (see here). Maybe that is what was meant instead of Canadian Red Maple. You are right … That’s no maple!

I can see from your new photo that the planting site is further from the patio than it appeared in the earlier photo. It may work well. Your arborist will be happy to advise you. You can talk about your concerns about root intrusion causing heaving of your patio, too. Regarding this, I discovered two things. First is that the species Prunus (Chokecherry = Prunus virginiana) is rated as having a very low likelihood of intrusion. See this article from Michigan State Extension for details. The second thing I discovered is that there is such a thing as a root barrier. It is discussed in this article from Texas A&M Extension; I’m sure you can discuss this with your arborist also, and s/he may be able to install one at planting if advised. Note that the article is from 1997, and other articles I read indicated that there was some disagreement about the use of a root barrier. I include this information for your consideration.

I applaud your efforts to include native plants in your landscape design and to amend your clay soil with organic materials. It takes a while, but it will certainly work in time! Maybe get some worms in the mix, too! Although you probably already know, just a reminder to never add sand to clay soil. The resulting hard pack can be almost like concrete.

I have truly enjoyed researching and answering your question. If I neglected to answer anything, or if any other questions come up, please feel free to contact me by responding to this email. I would be delighted to hear from you again! We would be most appreciative if you would complete the survey at the very end of this email. Best of luck with your tree!

Debra

More resources for you:

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Root Barriers – Texas A& M Extension https://aggie-hort.tamu.edu/newsletters/hortupdate/hortupdate_archives/2002/mar02/art3mar.html

Reducing Damage Caused by Tree Roots – Michigan State Extension https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/reducing_damage_caused_by_tree_roots1 This article notes that prunus was found to cause less damage than some other species (Paragraph 4).

‘Canada Red’ Chokecherry – University of Kentucky https://www.uky.edu/Ag/Horticulture/QRLabels/CanadaRedChokeberry.html

How to Hire an Arborist – The Ohio StateUniversity Ohioline https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/hyg-1032

Hire a Certified Arborist – Virginia Department of Forestry https://dof.virginia.gov/urban-community-forestry/urban-forestry-homeowner-assistance/hire-a-certified-arborist/#:~:text=Hiring%20an%20arborist%20to%20plant,the%20Tree%20Care%20Industry%20Association.